Building Materials and Construction Technology
z_bumbi: A new rug in a brighter color is an alternative. Wooden stairs make more noise and become slippery.
Frst11: [citat] Built in 2001 and is an extension. The trusses are outside the actual connection to the original construction. I don't have the exact history of the rooms but I think I can see that one room has been removed, but that room would have been some distance from the trusses in question.
Dowser4711: Remember to angle the screws properly when screwing into end grain, and it will go quite well. But if it's just for the short sides, it's quite manageable to afford four metal plates in the corners.
stahre87: Hello. Planning to tear down a wall to create a larger room. The floor and ceiling will therefore need renovation. Today, there's a classic 80s ceiling, as per the picture. The question is whether you can screw drywall directly into these or if you need to tear down and space new ones? Or lay spacing directly against the current ceiling? Does renovation drywall work for the ceiling, or do you
WaldenWoods: Aluminum profiles in various shapes are available at well-stocked hardware stores. Maybe not exactly that one, but you can probably figure out something similar with what's available, I believe. For example, you could use this one: https://www.byggmax.se/u-profil-aluminium-silver-20x18x20x131m-p208171 Mount it like a C, with the "roof" against the ceiling. Drill holes for screws in the "roof" and
Grusidojjan: Hi, I have a question for the forum regarding a casting. Hope you can answer this😀 I have an existing base plate in a rock cleft and I am now going to cast a wall that is about 80 cm high and 20 cm wide, which will be connected to both sides of the rock. I was thinking of doweling with rebar in the plate, but I became a bit concerned if it might cause problems? I will dowel about 20 cm from
Gräsand: [citat] Right here it is masonry and plaster. But porous as mentioned..
krbj: [citat] I'm not quite following. I don't have a current picture, but this is what the garage looks like. The idea is to attach an inner bearing beam under the eave (remove the molding that is there now) and then attach the beams with joist hangers, plus possibly support with vertical posts against the wall if needed. Then we thought to push the outer roof as far as possible under the eave and
Anonymiserad 358496: If you want expert help, you should contact an engineer. No one with that expertise provides free sizing on the web. If you don't want to pay for an engineer, träguiden/svenskt trä has good information. Don't try to take any shortcuts by claiming you have advantageous boundary conditions. Alternatively, take a chance on slimmer dimensions at your own risk. Document for the next owner.
Nektar: Hello! I have a question on how to seal a "bare" brick wall so that it doesn't "leak" unpleasant odors from there. Background and more information: We live in an apartment in an old building from the late 1800s. Along one wall in our bedroom, the previous owner has built custom closets, and we've noticed a strange smell inside them. It's like a smoky or old attic smell. We've searched and
Ccmm: [citat] [citat] It turned out really nice. Did you need to clean all the black parts beforehand?
capybara: I realize that the question might have been a bit daunting, that no one really wants the responsibility if they say something wrong. But all thoughts and ideas are welcome – what should I do with this emptiness? :)
David_.._: [citat] Hi. I am planning to build a bit myself. What I'm wondering is how the joist is anchored in the load-bearing beams? The load-bearing beams are anchored in the posts, but what about the joist?
Invokadoker: Hello! I'm currently looking at an apartment where I'd like to take down a wall, but I'm concerned that it might not be possible to remove the wall completely, meaning there might be a piece left at the ceiling. I managed to get this drawing from SBK which indicates that there are beams right here. What do you think? I know that similar apartments have removed parts of the wall, but I haven't
Dilato: I made the floor in my garage, which previously consisted of loose soil with some planks and boards loosely laid on top, the mice dug tunnels in the soil/sand and had a party in the garage. I used Byggmax finbetong basic. I just threw out the concrete, smoothed it out a bit loosely, and used a roller to make the surface a little more even. I "cast" maybe 35-45 mm thick directly on lightly
Karl-E: A ruler on each side about 30cm shorter than the space between the trees. You screw them through the tension strap with a washer, preferably a screw into each pipe part from each direction, of course.
Intershade: [citat] It has worked in winter and summer climate now without cracking anywhere. We'll have to see how the seal holds up over time. But my thought is that the stairs shouldn't move more than the seal can handle. It's built from LVL beams, chipboard, and laminate so we'll see.
Kollomanen: Hello! We have a balcony that has had untreated glued laminated timber as a construction for almost 20 years and it works. However, it gets a bit ugly, gray, and dull and cracks over the years. We have now, after 20 years, rebuilt the balcony and replaced it with new glued laminated timber beams and now want to treat them for appearance's sake. Any ideas from you here at BH? How did it go for you
Rickard.: [bild] The tips and skill level are truly top notch, five out of seven points 👌
Mr_Almer: Hello. I am planning to slip-cast my chimney myself. Looking for a store in Örebro and surrounding area that sells any of these products. Alternatively, someone who offers cheap or free shipping. Found a retailer in Lindesberg, but would like more suggestions. Planning to buy one or two bags. Beza Cheramic https://landyvent.se/product-category/beza-cheramic/ Schädler putsbruk Regards, Peter.
Marshall2203head: [citat] I asked the chimney sweep who did a pressure test on the chimney and he said there is no risk of leakage as long as the flues are good... and he said they were. He has also eased my worry that I might have done wrong, according to him there shouldn't be any problem. Perhaps I should mention that the plaster is removed on the two sides facing the kitchen, and the flues from the boiler and
olofh: I join those who would not brick up the window. Buy a new one with a ventilation slit or at least use glass blocks if you absolutely must brick it up so that some light can still get through.
anders07: [citat] No, just dampen it (and dust it off thoroughly), no primer. It's best to get it smooth with the plaster, but if there won't be any moisture, you can apply putty. Keep in mind that plaster becomes very hard and cannot be sanded! You can apply the plaster in layers, but then you need to leave the underlying layer "uneven" so the next layer adheres properly.
xnz: Hello everyone! I'm in the process of replacing the house's 40-year-old pellet boiler with geothermal heating and now want to double the area in the laundry room and remove the older fire-protected boiler room. My educated guess is that the wall in question is made of lightweight concrete and does not seem to be anchored more than mortar and plaster, as it's possible to hammer out quite
drallero: When making smaller amounts by hand, it is difficult to mix well without taking on a lot of water. Can the mixing of slightly crumbly mortar (especially lime mortar) be improved by vibrating?
myrstack: Imagine two scenarios. 1 that you do not encounter cavities, and then it's as usual with fastening according to your preference in the form of plugs, expansion fittings, or some kind of chemical product 2 that you encounter troublesome cavities, and then it's solved by either not drilling much further and using anchor compound (a bit of a gamble, but you often notice if you've just encountered a