Hello!
I'm planning to build an internal wall to separate a storage area from the main space in the garage. On the wall, I'll mount an Elfa system that will be quite heavily loaded, approaching the maximum load per shelf, so the entire shelf might weigh a couple of hundred kilograms.
The garage's exterior walls consist of 100mm KL-wood. The ceiling consists of 60mm KL-wood inner ceiling with 100x395mm ceiling beams on top (directly above where the internal wall should stand). The floor is made of concrete slab (hard concrete treated during finishing).
- This means all the "external" attachment points are really stable and it is easy to anchor a wall in them.
What kind of construction should I use to get as stable (yet thin) a wall as possible?
My thought was to use a frame of 45x70 studs spaced at 300mm centers, make it sturdy and then mount 15mm K-plyfa on each side and maybe stop there? Aesthetically, plyfa is good enough for the purpose and fits well with the KL-wood walls.
The wall goes at an angle according to the attached image 1900x2300mm internal dimensions. Roof angle 15 degrees.
I have no need for either insulation or soundproofing, but I’m thinking of adding wood fiber boards or linen insulation to avoid a drumming sound if you hit the wall with a box.
Am I on the right track, or do I need to reinforce significantly more?
I'm planning to build an internal wall to separate a storage area from the main space in the garage. On the wall, I'll mount an Elfa system that will be quite heavily loaded, approaching the maximum load per shelf, so the entire shelf might weigh a couple of hundred kilograms.
The garage's exterior walls consist of 100mm KL-wood. The ceiling consists of 60mm KL-wood inner ceiling with 100x395mm ceiling beams on top (directly above where the internal wall should stand). The floor is made of concrete slab (hard concrete treated during finishing).
- This means all the "external" attachment points are really stable and it is easy to anchor a wall in them.
What kind of construction should I use to get as stable (yet thin) a wall as possible?
My thought was to use a frame of 45x70 studs spaced at 300mm centers, make it sturdy and then mount 15mm K-plyfa on each side and maybe stop there? Aesthetically, plyfa is good enough for the purpose and fits well with the KL-wood walls.
The wall goes at an angle according to the attached image 1900x2300mm internal dimensions. Roof angle 15 degrees.
I have no need for either insulation or soundproofing, but I’m thinking of adding wood fiber boards or linen insulation to avoid a drumming sound if you hit the wall with a box.
Am I on the right track, or do I need to reinforce significantly more?
What are you going to load on the shelves?W wuchi said:
The construction feels reasonable to me. The question is what does the Elfa system handle?
Why don't you screw Elfa tracks into the studs? That way, the board material could be hardboard if you want.W wuchi said:
Then the wall won't get any shear resistance, which is important.yoloboi said:
All kinds of stuff I've collected over the years. Everything from spare parts for car/bike to skating gear, binders full of papers, etc. The weight adds up quite quickly.FlugfiskarniJämtland said:
If you use the version with a horizontal top track, it should support 300kg per pair of vertical hanging uprights, if I understand it correctly, provided the wall behind holds the screws.
I haven't yet found what a rail directly screwed into the wall/stud can handle, but it should be equivalent for the system.
Regardless of which variant of Elfa I choose, I'm planning to ensure there's a stud behind where I attach it.
Can you elaborate on how it is important?
Load distribution. A k-plyfa of 15mm versus a masonite makes a big difference. The wall and shelving system can warp quite a bit if there's variation in the load.yoloboi said:
At what load should one start considering this for a framed wall, say with 45x70 versus 45x95?
Everything depends on what you're planning to do with the wall, but why skimp on hardboard. It's better to build a proper wall right away with less risk of needing to rebuild it in the future.yoloboi said:
Weight classification on Elfa (and similar systems) is a maximum weight per post, which many forget when they look at what a shelf bracket or a shelf can withstand, so it is the center-to-center measurement that you have to adjust according to the load. But if you hang a horizontal rail and have the posts loosely hanging on it, it's much stronger than you think as long as the fastening is stable. I had an older relative who had adjusted the cc to fit large plastic bins of 45/60 liters between the brackets, and they were filled with electrical cable, machines, saw blades, workshop books, screw packages, and all sorts of heavy things. Five shelves high, one rail wide, and 45 cm deep. I was both startled and impressed when I dismantled the shelf, which had considerable load and was free-hanging...
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I fully agree! Hardboard is not good in most cases. Even in this one. What I wanted to say was that plywood isn't necessary if the frame is made strong and the shelves are attached to it. Plywood has become expensive. But I will backtrack here and admit I missed the detail that plywood works well aesthetically as a surface layer - then it's a no-brainer to go "your" way and use the board. It will be an incredibly strong and incredibly stiff wall.