Log cabin shed, install a door in a load-bearing partition

[AndersS]

25 mm, just board, is so thin that you need to build something to attach the frame to. You need to make a framework to attach the door frame. I would cut out for the frame measurements and then reinforce on the "board wall," standing on the sides and one on top so that it becomes frame thickness. You can make various fixes if you want it to bear against the roof beam at the ridge, just improvise whichever looks best. Then you can secure the door frame with frame screws. It's just a regular board shed with lying boards that are sawed together; we should probably forget all about "log cabin." 😉

 

[JonkaRud]

25 mm, just a plank, is so thin that you need to build something to attach the frame to.
You need to make a framework to attach the door frame. I would have cut out for frame dimensions and then reinforced on the "plank wall," with standing supports on the sides and one on top so that it matches the frame thickness.
You can do various fixes if you want it to be load-bearing towards a roof beam in the ridge, just improvise whichever looks best.
Then you can secure the door frame with frame screws.
It's just an ordinary plank shed with planks laid together, we should probably forget all about "log cabin". 😉

Thanks for the input 👍

 

[Snickarkirre]

It is just as jonaserik writes, a log structure moves up and down with the seasons. It doesn't matter if it's a log structure with logs, boards, or planks, and if the walls are 25mm or 500mm thick. It moves regardless. So, mounting a frame and screwing it into the wall is not advisable because if the timber in the walls starts to expand or contract, it cannot move as it should. The simplest solution is, as you mentioned, with moldings. If you are going to mount a frame around the door to screw the door into, you need to rout a 25mm groove on the back of the vertical studs for the board wall to fit into so it can move. Also, as jonaserik mentioned, don’t forget to have a few centimeters of clearance above the door; otherwise, the entire structure above the door may end up hanging on the door frame.

 

[JonkaRud]

It is exactly as jonaserik writes that a log structure moves up and down with the seasons. It doesn't matter if it's a log structure with logs, boards, or planks and if the walls are 25mm or 500mm thick. It moves regardless. So you shouldn't frame a structure and screw it into the wall because if the wood in the walls starts to expand or contract, it won't be able to move as it should. The simplest solution is as you wrote yourself with molding. If you're framing a structure around the door to which you'll attach the door, you need to rout a 25mm slot on the back of the vertical studs which the board wall should fit into so it can move. And also, as jonaserik wrote, don't forget to have a few centimeters of allowance above the doorframe; otherwise, the entire construction above the door can end up hanging on the door frame.

I'm really grateful for your opinion, I hadn't thought of that at all before, so it was really necessary! Tomorrow I'll head to the lumberyard and get started 🙂 Then I'll have time to work and get a feel for it before the snow comes too 😁

 

[AndersS]

It is exactly as jonaserik writes, a timber frame moves up and down with the seasons. It makes no difference if it is a timber frame with logs, boards, or planks and whether the walls are 25mm or 500mm thick. It moves nonetheless. So attaching a frame and screwing it into the wall should not be done because if the wood in the walls starts to swell or shrink, it cannot move as it should. The simplest solution is as you wrote, with moldings. If you're going to build a frame around the door to attach the door to, you'll need to groove a 25mm slot on the back of the vertical studs so the wallboards can fit into it and move freely. Also, as jonaserik noted, don't forget to leave a few centimeters of expansion space above the door, or the entire construction above the door could end up hanging on the door frame.

An interior wall in a simple shed with 25 mm boards is unlikely to move much if you frame around a new doorway and nail/screw into each board. It becomes like horizontal paneling on a framed structure, where each panel board is nailed. I maintain that it works 100%.

 

[Snickarkirre]

An inner wall in a simple shed with 25 mm boards is unlikely to move much if you attach studs around a new door opening and nail/screw into each board. It becomes like horizontal paneling on a studded frame, where each panel board is nailed.
I maintain that it works 100%.

Absolutely, then it becomes like horizontal paneling on a studded frame around the door. But the long sides and gables are not screwed into vertical studs. So they will settle if it's dry outside and the boards shrink. Then everything will depend on the door's framing, which will surely handle that load unless the user lives in snow zone 4.5 and has one and a half meters of snow on the roof. But the issue is that all walls not screwed into studs will move while the boards around the door will be rigid. So if it dries and separates, for example, the panel on the wall leading to the sauna will look like a banana (greatly exaggerated). Or it might result in gaps between the boards on the other walls, so you could see through the wall between the tongue and groove.

 

[AndersS]

Absolutely, then they become like horizontal paneling on a framed structure around the door. But the long sides and gables are not screwed into vertical studs. So they will settle if it's dry outside and the boards shrink. Then everything will hinge on the door's framing and they will likely handle the load unless TS lives in snow zone 4.5 and has a meter and a half of snow on the roof. But the problem is that all walls not screwed into studs will move, whereas around the door, the boards are rigid. So if they shrink, for example, the panel on the wall leading to the sauna will look like a banana (grossly exaggerated). Or it may be that there will be gaps between the boards on the other walls, so you'll be able to see through the wall between tongue and groove.

TS writes that vertical spruce paneling will be installed in the sauna section, which I have assumed in the suggestions and which will lock parts of the exterior walls. 😉
So TS might consider installing some vertical boards/studs in the relaxation section if it's not going to be clad, if you want both belt and braces.

A question for TS: are the boards really loose in the exterior wall, or what do the corners look like? With only 25 mm in the exterior walls without any attachment other than being sawn together at the corners.

 

[Snickarkirre]

Ts writes that standing spruce paneling will be installed in the sauna section, which I have assumed in the suggestions and which will lock parts of the outer walls. 😉
So ts might want to put some standing boards/studs in the relaxation area if it will not be clad to have suspenders and a belt.

A question for ts, are the boards really loose in the outer wall or what does it look like at the corners/knots. With only 25 mm in the outer walls without any other fastening than sawn together at the knot.

You are absolutely right 👍 missed that detail. If he's going to do it anyway, it doesn't matter as much. Even though it's not recommended in a log construction. The wood moves more than you think. Earlier this summer I had to saw more above doors and windows in my sauna because it had dried so much that the entire structure was hanging on the sauna door. Even though I had made 25-30mm allowance for insulation above all windows and doors when I built it.

 

[jonaserik]

It's like with a pure timber house, raising everything, no windows and doors just a roof, standing and drying for 2 years and sinking maybe 10 cm on a one-story and 20 cm on a two-story.