Log cabin shed, install a door in a load-bearing partition

[JonkaRud]

I have a log cabin that will be converted into a sauna, and I plan to install a glass door between the relaxation area and the sauna. Since this wall is load-bearing, I'm wondering how to do this in the best way.

Almost the entire load-bearing wall will need to be cut to fit the door (19x7), and then the sauna section will be built inside. The sauna section is 1.4m x 3m, and all the walls will be covered with vertical spruce paneling.

So my question is, will the vertical paneling help to hold the construction together since it ties the horizontal parts together, or do I need to somehow provide additional support, and how do I do this in the most suitable way?

Attached are two images, a sketch (apologies for my paint skills) where the green marking represents the new door, and a picture of what the wall looks like and how the roof is constructed.

 

[Totte_S]

Haven't you considered insulating the sauna walls at all? Otherwise, you have a golden opportunity to frame up an inner wall in the sauna and design it to compensate for the door opening.

 

[JonkaRud]

Haven't you considered insulating the sauna walls at all? There you have a golden opportunity to build an interior wall in the sauna and execute it to compensate for the door opening.

Hi, I would prefer not to do that for two reasons, lack of space and then to reduce the risk of trapping moisture in the wall, but most of all because of the lack of space.

I think the standing panel that will be in the sauna should help compensate for the door opening, but maybe it doesn't?

 

[AndersS]

For such a small building, I see no problem with installing a door. I would have cut it open and mounted it. The partition wall is just a little extra support for the roof beams. And the door does have a wooden frame where you can let the standing frame sides provide support.

 

[myrstack]

How thick is the timber in the partition wall? I don't see strength as a major problem, it should just be a matter of opening it up, but when I've done similar work in these types of sheds, the timber has often been so thin that you need to build a frame of some kind of timber since the frame of a door you want to install is often deeper than the timber is thick in the partition. For me, it's an excellent opportunity to make the opening slightly larger than the frame so you can structure for the frame's fastening. A vertical 45x70 on each side of the frame and a crossbeam in a slightly stronger dimension provide both peace of mind and a good base for fastening the frame. I assume that whether or not you insulate the sauna section, you will need some kind of spacer material between the current outer walls and the sauna panel you plan to install.

 

[Daniel 109]

How are the exterior doors installed?

 

[AndersS]

Such small buildings are constructed so that only the outer walls are load-bearing for the rafters/beams, in this case, a pitched roof. They are typically a maximum of 15 sqm and usually measure 3*5m.

 

[Daniel 109]

The roof trusses are guaranteed to be sized to be supported on that wall.

 

[AndersS]

The roof rafters are certainly sized to have support on that wall.

They will hold without the wall, and the wall should not be removed but only have a door installed. If ts feels unsure about what is being written, ts should install the frame and insert shims so the frame sides support. Alternatively, ts could screw a stud below and between the side joists, then a short standing stud up to the ridge beam. Very simple if you want to reinforce.

 

[Daniel 109]

Yes, I absolutely believe that what's left of the wall can handle the load. But I oppose the claim that it does not bear load. The roof is largely supported by the gables and the inner wall.

 

[JonkaRud]

How thick is the timber in your partition wall? I don't see the strength as a major problem; it should just be about opening up, but when I've done similar things in these types of sheds, the timber is often so thin that you still need to build a frame out of some kind of wood as the frame on a door that needs to go in is often deeper than the timber is thick in the partition wall. For me, it's an excellent opportunity to make the opening slightly larger than the frame when you are doing it so you can secure the frame's attachment. A standing 45x70 on each side of the frame and a header in a slightly stronger dimension provides both security for peace of mind and a good base for fastening the frame.
I assume that whether or not you insulate the sauna section, you'll still need some kind of spacer material between the current outer walls and the sauna panel you intend to put up.

Hi, it's 25mm timber that the cabin is made of, and as you mentioned, I will be attaching a 12mm batten before the new panel is nailed in place.

 

[JonkaRud]

How are the front doors mounted?

It is a recessed frame with the wall placed between, but not screwed in any way.

 

[jonaserik]

A frame in a log cabin or like yours should not be fixed with frame screws or anything else, but should be able to slide in the groove. This is because everything moves in a log cabin, up or down. So keep that in mind with the new door which is made of glass and cannot withstand the stresses that may occur. It must be loose.

 

[JonkaRud]

A frame in a log house or like yours, should not be fixed with frame screws or anything else, but be able to slide in the groove. This is because everything moves in a log cabin, up or down. So keep that in mind with the new door made of glass and cannot withstand the stresses that may occur. It must be loose.

Thanks for the information, I'll prop up the door then trim on each side so it sits "loose" in between.

 

[jonaserik]

Make sure there are a few centimeters above the door, as that's where the most movement can occur, with the wood shifting up/down. A gap there can easily be masked with a piece of board or molding.