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En glad amatör: Haha, ten years since the thread started and no one has commented, it must be commented on… It might not be a bad idea with a pergola in steel, but I think the OP has too little knowledge about metals and their properties to take on this project. Among other things, one wants to use stainless steel to get the rusty "look", stainless steel is like a modern refrigerator or an old sink, it's shiny
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FredrikR
FredrikR: [citat] I have a drain in the middle between the two parking spaces and would probably prefer a trench under each car with a local slope if I ever build a new garage.
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Jocke Best: It probably depends on how much too short it is. If someone stands on the sheet, you can simultaneously see how far it reaches up behind the flashing. If it does, it might be enough to reattach it, but lower down. Otherwise, as mentioned, you need to add a piece that overlaps so it doesn't run down behind.
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Daniel 109: No, a doorstop makes it even harder to open the lid.
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ArneTW: [citat] One of the points of pressure-treated wood is that it withstands rain and harsh weather, so any painting/oiling is not for protection but purely visual. And if regular wood is left free-standing and has the opportunity to dry between intervals, it takes several years before it gets damaged. It doesn't need to be dried indoors for painting; if your construction is free-standing outdoors,
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perlundstrom: Hi, my wife and I have been looking at an older house from the 50s. Most of it looks good except for the surfaces, which we can fix ourselves. Then there are various blemishes. Do you think any of this is serious and needs to be addressed soon? One of the showers (bathtub image) has holes in the wall, but there's a fresher and more newly renovated shower that can be used. The pipes and plumbing
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crazytok: How did it go??
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plåtrickard
plåtrickard: Called sq in the bitsatsen. Works with both 4kant and 8kant.
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Oskaris: [citat] Originally, it was cladding made of what I believe was Masonite and vertical studs attached to the semi-cast horizontal studs.
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ivanhansen: Thank you for a good answer!
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Rickard.
Rickard.: Plastic is really bad; a subfloor should be airtight but diffusion-open. Wind barrier and boards are a classic solution and probably not a bad idea if panels are not an option.
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jokar: Does anyone know a recommendation on overlap/wraparound? Where you can see sizing, etc.
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Hans G2: [citat] This is probably the picture after he got help and redid it :)
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ptlf: [citat] Thanks for the quick reply 👍 So simple once you get the answer 😌
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RoAd: [citat] Felt it in me. Then it will be a trip to the hardware store this week.
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Spikrätaren: [citat] Then the ceiling is probably plastered. You probably have boards behind it. First, try threading in a sturdy hook and see if it doesn't pull.
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epw: There are boards that are primed and painted once. They last without problems for five years if you don't manage to paint once on site. Impregnated wood is not made to be painted, regardless of whether it's been one or two years.
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Ironside: Unfortunately, he used Tec7 but when it needs to be redone next time I will probably look at another solution. Maybe I should pull myself together and learn how to thread the insert, put some kind of rubber gasket and then screw the lid on, that would have been the neatest solution.
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Hobbyhantverkaren63: [citat] Hi! I need to router some hat battens only a few meters. Did you find a good method with the handheld router? Regards [/QUOTE]
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Oldboy
Oldboy: Since there is a vapor barrier, no moisture from inside will get out into the wall. The vapor barrier also prevents any mold from entering the home, even if it is present in the wall. All this assuming the vapor barrier is well-made and tight everywhere. The wall will dry out over time if it is not dried out before being put together, which it definitely should be. They might also have applied
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Kaffekoppens: [citat]
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evalouise
evalouise: [citat] Thanks. Yeah, I thought that question would come up... but it was more fun to fix inside. The only thing I managed was to fix the base with some kind of plaster/slurry thing according to instructions from xlbygg. Then I had done some clay plastering on the outside around a window, so that didn't turn out well... haha, so sure, I've learned along the way!! I found some guy in Småland who
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z_bumbi: Since you have the drawing, you just need to measure? If you can tolerate every other seam, then take two lengths. Otherwise, pair them two by two. But if you can get them on the roof, I would probably order the right length at once.
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BirgitS
BirgitS: How thick is the wall? Ventilation pipes are thick, approx. 10 cm, so they do not fit in walls that are 12 cm thick. Ventilation pipes are the responsibility of the association, so if you damage one, you must inform the association, otherwise it may come back to bite you later. They must be completely sealed.
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Lena Pålsson
Lena Pålsson: [citat] Hi! What size was your lifting eye with pin? Where did you buy it? Unfortunately, I can't search with the link. Regards, Lena
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stugfar: To ensure something remains leak-proof, it is probably best to ensure that the water beneath the decking drains away. Regardless of what you have underneath, there is a risk of leakage over time if the water can become stagnant.
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anders07
anders07: It's not particularly well done, and I wouldn't be satisfied with that! There might be some "small stones" coming loose, like small grains of sand from unpainted plaster, but chunks definitely shouldn't come off. Maybe he wasn't patient enough to wait until the plaster had set enough to be able to smooth it properly...? The only thing to do is to knock it down and redo it since you can't build up
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CCGDE: [citat] Thanks for the response with the first question I was thinking like they cast here https://www.dinbyggare.se/bygg-en-jordkallare/ Ovanskiss
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Karmarjoh: Hello! We live in a house built in 1943. In the basement, there is an old floor drain that is not used. Originally, it was likely there because the basement had a door/entrance directly from the garden, and the drain was supposed to collect any rainwater that could be forced in under the door. The door has long been bricked up. The problem now is that with the extreme weather that has occurred,
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Modski: Yes, it stops abruptly and becomes exactly as you described when you hit a rebar.
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