Building Materials and Construction Technology
Den oroliga byggaren: [citat] The roof replacement was canceled because summer is what it is and we want to get rid of the old masonite since the Anticimex inspections included in our insurance will definitely complain about the double layer of masonite, which is also partially damaged in some areas - it becomes a real patchwork.
Liljeros: It is completely impossible for us to make that assessment without seeing the construction, but most likely it is the house manufacturer. Carpenters are not designers; they should, in that case, point out which parts are deficient and provide some form of calculation to underline it...
Räknenisse: Would probably look strange if you moved the panel out to create an air gap there. As long as you treat it with methods that allow the wood to breathe, there will hardly be any problems. Many houses were built like that in the past and worked fine until the facade was repainted with a different color.
klimtachakka: Is there any information missing or is the question incorrectly formulated?
jonaserik: Don't worry, put up new plaster, what you can see is a roof with reed and plastered. Consider if you need any additional ELECTRICITY now that the ceiling is open, It looks like you can get under the laths quite well.
BirgitS: The area responsible chimney sweep is the specialist in this, but it is important that the channels in the chimney are tight and one must consider the fire risk with a warm chimney, so there is probably a good reason that it is done the way it is done.
Stefan1972: My idea with a vertical stud was that it would then be nailed to the horizontal studs. It doesn't need to be attached to the house as long as the horizontal studs are attached to the frame.
markuslj: Hello, I need to install corner protectors on external indoor corners. The walls are made of concrete and aerated concrete. I have applied gypsum mortar to create a flat surface. What type of corner protectors should be chosen in this situation? I've heard two different opinions from two different craftsmen. One side claims that metal corners are best as they are more durable and withstand more
ImTheBeast: I would like to borrow the thread, I have a staircase as shown in the image below. I haven't torn up the carpet yet; is it plastic or linoleum on the steps, and do you think there is asbestos? The house was built in 1976.
louii: Hello folks! I would need some tips on how to proceed with this addition. The idea is to insulate the floor with 90mm foam as this room has insulated walls and ceiling but for some reason lacks insulation in the floor. My plan was to place an additional 45x45 on top of the existing 45x45 so it becomes 90x45 instead. Where there is an old basement staircase, I thought to further reinforce with
BirgitS: If it is a hole that leads to a cold space, then it should be insulated as well.
AXS: Dig up, fold down the pipe, and attach a bend that goes above ground. Probably the only thing that will look nice. Or dig up and install some type of brunnsgaller, but then there will be more dirt in the pipes.
-Martin-: [citat] As mentioned, these are punched plates that are factory-mounted. I'm considering proceeding with a solution using a slide hammer since the previous suggestions with a crowbar etc. cause too much damage to the studs.
Jakob.O: Update! I have now been in contact with Bauhaus and they have agreed to a full refund as well as compensation for the material I tried to attach. Extremely satisfied with their customer service and quick response! 😄
MrJay: [citat] Seal only in front of the caulking in the threshold opening.
stwennth: Would like to recommend a free service for performing a variety of calculations before construction. You also receive a complete drawing package and even templates for cutting in some of the trickier cases. I've used it myself to calculate a roof, skHipp rafter in English, which I believe is called a valmat tak in Swedish. There are tons of other things you can calculate, everything can be
Workingclasshero: Hello Apply tar paper on carrier beams and floor joists to keep it dry. /W
garoto: Hello, what do you think is a good board material for building shutters? How do you think osb3 boards work if painted? What type of plywood would work? I know marine plywood is an option but I'm looking for other cheaper solutions. Do you have any tips or experiences?
lulle64: Hello! The room is about 6x4m. The parquet floor goes the long way. Windows are on one of the long walls. Normally, the ceiling is installed in the same direction as the floor, but I am unsure in this case because there is a ceiling beam across the middle of the room. Considering Huntonit 300x1220. Thinking that the window and the beam might make it look better to follow the beam's direction?
tensiden: [citat] Exactly so. Our corner blocks are considerably lower than what @A.Barman has, but we did the same. We looked at what was in the most untouched areas and ordered the same from the planing mill. If you don't have a template yourself, you have to go with what you think fits and preferably also what suits the house in question. For example, we consciously choose a slightly "simpler" design
Carl Johansson: Had similar problems and simply sawed off the damaged timber and replaced it by casting new in concrete. Turned out great.
Ccc Ccc: [citat] Hi! We are planning to do like you ☺️ Did you use 22mm floor chipboard? What size joists did you use? Any other tips and advice? Thanks for the help!
HSP: Yes, exactly, so the ankarmassa doesn't flow out of the hole.
A-Man_08: You should not drill in the joint at the edges of the tiles as you risk chipping or cracking a tile. Drill a hole in the tile instead, but now that you have already drilled the hole, it's probably best to just continue.
linnarsson: Have now opened two of the pages and everything looks good. It's just the top layer that's "bösar" by a few mm. Thanks everyone for the responses. :-)
Stene75: Hello. I'm working on an accessory building and sketching the frame. The walls are framed with 45x170. What I'm stuck on is the choice of roof construction. I have ordered a glulam beam 90x315 which has glulam posts in the gables 90x90 and internally 115x115. Internally, there are no issues, using the chosen posts there, but in the gables, there will be a window door centered in the middle of the
akby: Thanks. Buy one on sale or something. I have a B&D one-hand model with a 125 mm disc. So nothing fancy. One like that is good to have for a bit of everything. I removed the enamel on the hob with a short putty knife that I tapped on with a hammer. That way, I kept the sandblasted surface underneath. Then I went over it with the angle grinder and a rotating wire brush. And then stove polish.
Fuga: [citat] Ok. Thanks for the info. That makes the selection look better.
AG A: As @myrstack pointed out, deflections are allowed at about L/300, depending a bit on the building component. If, for example, you replaced your wall with a beam in the ceiling, you would accept a deflection of a few millimeters. However, this is something different from a settlement. In a newly built house, such a settlement would never be accepted. It's a construction error if the floors start