Hello,

I have a small question that I hope someone can answer.

I plan to join the plastic pipe to the metal pipe below the ground surface instead of halfway above as it is now. In connection with this, I will install an access hatch a bit higher as it is difficult to access today.

The pipes looked fresh upon inspection and due to the level differences in the basement, I don't want to dig a meter down into the ground.

Should be a fairly simple maneuver to do myself? Or should I hire a plumber?

How have you cut the metal pipes? Is an angle grinder the way to go?

Metal pipe partially inserted into a white fitting, emerging from the floor near a wall corner with visible hole and surrounding area. PVC and metal pipes connected with fittings at ground level, near a radiator and a flashlight on the floor. A metal pipe partially buried in concrete with visible rust and decay under a building's foundation.
Grateful for help and response
 
  • Close-up of a hole in the ground surface revealing an old and corroded metal pipe, partially covered with concrete and dirt.
Claes Sörmland
The difficult and tedious part is exposing the pipe. To chisel, dig, tear down, etc., until you reach a straight piece of cast iron pipe that you can use. Or if it's concrete in the ground? Is it ground or a joist that we see?

Otherwise, it's simple if you have the right parts at home.
 
Thanks for the response! It's plain concrete. Fortunately, they seem to have left some air, probably to be able to use the cleaning hatch.
But then is it just a matter of using an angle grinder and adding a joint?
 
Claes Sörmland
W williamspäron said:
Thanks for the reply! It is pure concrete. Fortunately, they seem to have left a bit of air, probably to be able to use the cleaning hatch.
But then it's just a matter of using an angle grinder and splicing on?
Yes exactly. I replaced the drain in the garden a week ago and was lucky that the concrete pipes broke off quite straight by chance. Then I inserted the plastic pipe into it and sealed with concrete. But that means your 110 mm plastic pipe must have a smaller outer diameter than the inner diameter of the concrete pipe.

Upstream I had to use a rubber coupling to get my concrete pipe, which was 4 inches (100 mm) in inner diameter and around 135 mm in outer diameter, to work with 110 mm plastic. It was this one:

https://www.purus.se/produkter?tx_pxaproductmanager_pi1[action]=show&tx_pxaproductmanager_pi1[controller]=Product&tx_pxaproductmanager_pi1[product]=20047&cHash=bde5ca2a98edf21a64465c4132300c87

I was lucky that the concrete pipe came off as a smooth end through accidental breakage so I didn't have to use an angle grinder.
 
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williamspäron
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Now I have driven up to get a bit more space.
I should probably just cut below the cleaning hatch, buy a piece of pipe and reuse the coupling sleeve and seal everything again?
A plumbing pipe exposed in a partially dug hole. The pipe has a coupling and is surrounded by concrete debris, ready for renovation.
 
W williamspäron said:
Now I have chipped away to get a bit more space.
I should probably just cut below the cleaning hatch, buy a piece of pipe and reuse the coupling sleeve and seal everything again?
[image]
Yes.
 
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williamspäron
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tommib
The difficulty here is to access something to cut the cast iron pipe. An angle grinder or a reciprocating saw will be hard to get down in the hole to achieve a straight cut.

Apart from that, it's simple, just as Claes describes, it's the exposure to an appropriate point that is tough and dirty. The connection is super simple.
 
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williamspäron
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tommib tommib said:
The difficulty here is to access something to cut the cast iron pipe. An angle grinder or a reciprocating saw will be difficult to get down the hole to make a straight cut.

Besides that, it's simple; just like Claes describes, it's the exposure to a suitable point that is tough and dirty. The connection is super easy.
Thank you for the response! I can at least get down with the angle grinder now so I might have to take it in pieces and as the last step, get a smooth edge.
 
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daddydj
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Sounds like a good plan. Start a bit higher up and work your way downwards.
 
daddydj daddydj said:
Sounds like a good plan. Start a bit higher up and work your way down.
That went well once you dared :).

A few test flushes later, it's time to seal up the hole :-)

A plumbing pipe surrounded by a hole in the concrete floor, with a crowbar nearby, indicating an ongoing renovation process.
 
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tommib
The drain cover then? I would definitely have put one in that spot.

Besides that: Go you!
 
tommib tommib said:
The inspection cover then? I would definitely install one in that spot.

Besides that: Go you!
Thanks for the encouragement! Yes, the plan is to install one of those cleanout doors with a screw cap a bit higher up.
 
Krilleman
Place the cleaning pipe over your 15º bends, it doesn't matter if it's a bit high.

If you follow the minimum measurement, it should be 400mm at the bottom edge of the actual "lid"!

Image from Säkervatten.

Diagram showing a plumbing installation with a minimum 400mm clearance from the top of the pipe to the bottom of the cap, featuring 15º bends.
 
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Krilleman Krilleman said:
Place the cleaning pipe over your 15º bends, it doesn't matter if it's a bit high.

If you're going to follow the minimum measurement, it's 400mm at the bottom edge of the actual "lid" that's required!

Image from Säkervatten.

[image]
Thanks! I got such a boost when I fixed this that I will tackle changing the well in the boiler room soon :-)
 
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SueCia
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