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7 replies
895 views
7 replies
Where to find; age-resistant strip, about 1*4 cm of moisture-resistant, pressure-resistant material
Is there any material suitable for creating an air gap behind a plasterboard if you are going to plaster a wooden house? I would like to create the air gap with a strip of more moisture-resistant material than wood and preferably a material that can act as a moisture barrier.
One idea is to place a strip of aging-resistant plastic outside the strip, i.e., between the air gap strip and the plasterboard.
One idea is to place a strip of aging-resistant plastic outside the strip, i.e., between the air gap strip and the plasterboard.
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Do you want to avoid wooden lath on a wooden house? Are you under the illusion that you can get a completely soaked plaster and plaster-bearing board or what are you after?
If that's the case, the simplest solution is probably just to use standard wooden lath but screw it up with a suitable plastic washer against the structure.
If that's the case, the simplest solution is probably just to use standard wooden lath but screw it up with a suitable plastic washer against the structure.
Yep, I thought I wanted the plaster wall to last long, and the spacer batten is the weakest link. But I might be wrong.M myrstack said:You want to avoid wood battens on a wooden house? Do you imagine that you can have a completely soaked plaster and plaster-bearing board, or what are you aiming for?
If that's the case, the simplest is probably just to use standard wood battens but screw them up with suitable plastic washers against the frame.
If I use a plastic washer, it should probably be placed between the wood batten and the plaster-bearing board, or I could just use a narrow strip of age-resistant plastic on the wood batten to maybe make it last a little longer.
Theoretically, I think you have a point about where the washer should be placed. Practically, I think it's much simpler to put it under the strip during installation, and then when the board goes on, you just need to hit the strip as usual.U utbygget said:Yes, I thought I wanted the plaster wall to last a long time and that the distance strip would be the weakest link. But I might be wrong. If I should use a plastic washer, then it should be placed between the wooden strip and the plaster-supporting board or I could just use a narrow strip of age-resistant plastic on the wooden strip so it might last a little longer.
However, I imagine that in a scenario where you have such incredibly saturated plaster that you risk moisture being drawn from the plaster-supporting board to the frame, it is probably the extreme relative humidity of the air circulating in the air gap that will increase the moisture load on your frame rather than what can be drawn in by capillary action through the strips. Plaster-supporting boards are usually quite capillary-breaking with
yes, thoughts have gone in the direction that it's humid.M myrstack said:Theoretically, I think you have a point about where the plate should be placed. Practically, I think it's much easier to put it under the molding during installation and then when the board is to be installed, you just aim for the molding as usual.
However, I'm thinking that in a scenario where you have such incredibly saturated plaster that you risk moisture being drawn in from the plaster carrier board to the frame, it is more likely the extremely high relative humidity in the air circulating in the air gap that will increase the moisture load on your frame, rather than what can be drawn in with capillary action via the moldings. Plaster carrier boards are usually quite capillary-breaking as well.
And hitting the plate when the plaster is screwed on is unlikely.
But I believe if the plaster is 75, then the wood will be 75, and that's a bit high, but if I have plastic between the wood and plaster, the wood will last a little longer.
The risk that moisture would get trapped inside the plastic is also a possibility, but I think it can move sideways.
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