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Boracol or equivalent for mold
After a major flood in my basement with subsequent mold growth, I need something like Boracol.
Apparently, you need to have a company to buy Boracol, so are there any effective alternatives?
I have seen so-called "Mögelfri" among others, but they do not disclose their ingredients list, so I guess they are useless. Or?
Does anyone have tips on products or where I can get them?
Apparently, you need to have a company to buy Boracol, so are there any effective alternatives?
I have seen so-called "Mögelfri" among others, but they do not disclose their ingredients list, so I guess they are useless. Or?
Does anyone have tips on products or where I can get them?
Chlorine and a scouring sponge or scrub brush.
The chlorine does away with the mold, and then you just brush it away. Just make sure to have good ventilation and it works perfectly.
The chlorine does away with the mold, and then you just brush it away. Just make sure to have good ventilation and it works perfectly.
I have already planned to do that. But after that I need something for the long term. The space will remain damp.ricebridge said:
This basement is more like a pantry, it's part of an older house, around 1920, and is built with vaulted ceilings of large stones and cement. The floor is a smooth concrete floor. The only access is through a door to the outside (it's built with an "airlock" type, i.e. two doors).
Wood. Mainly in the form of doors, door frames (beams), and interior (shelves, cabinets).C cpalm said:
Since the cellar consists of vaulted masonry with larger stones under a house, changing the construction is not something one would want to attempt. Additionally, it is unheated (not a realistic possibility either). So it works best as a pantry.
Yes, I understand... I have a similar "potato cellar" under the house myself. I wasn't suggesting you rebuild half the house, more like considering drainage, ventilation, and such. If it's so damp that the wood molds even without flooding, it won't be usable for any sensible storage either.TRJBerg said:
We had similar problems with the earth cellar at our previous place, and my analysis was that it partly depended on the ground conditions being such that water came in during rain, but I also think the concrete floor was a big cause - the water had nowhere to go. In our current house, there is no flooring, just "compacted dirt floor," and you realize that it has enormous capacity to buffer the moisture.
I don't have much experience with the cellar as a food storage. The house was rented out between 2014 and 2022. The last tenants stored household waste and moonshine in the basement. It reeked when I checked afterward!C cpalm said:Yes, I understand... I have such a "potato cellar" under the house myself. I wasn't thinking about you rebuilding half the house, more about drainage, ventilation, and such. If it's so humid that the wood molds even without flooding, it won't be usable for any sensible storage either.
We had similar problems with the root cellar at our previous place, and my analysis was that it partly depended on the soil conditions allowing water to enter when it rained, but I also think the concrete floor was a major cause - the water had nowhere to go. In the current house, there is no flooring, just "tamped earth floor," and you realize it has an enormous capacity to buffer the moisture.
I had recently emptied and cleaned the cellar a couple of weeks before the flood (60cm of water!). So that was lucky.
Before the flood (i.e., before 2014), I didn't notice any mold. But now there's mold in several places.
Since the cellar stays above freezing in winter and cool in summer, I want to use it as a food storage. But I'm worried the mold has "set in." So, I want to fix any possible issue in the most effective way.
Interesting. Some observations: the discussion mainly revolves around toxins. Additionally, there is some contradictory text when comparing the three paragraphs. Otherwise, the text for pine sapwood is most applicable to me, while the section on gypsum boards is not. And apparently, chlorine can also reduce the amount of toxins if you perform repeated treatments (for pine sapwood).D Dilato said:
But from my perspective, the toxins do not play a significant role because no one will be spending any time in the basement other than very briefly, and the items stored there likely won't be exposed to or contaminated by the toxins.
This might apply to, for example, stored root vegetables. But the amount of toxin in my case is probably small enough.
How about Boracol?
I recall that it couldn't be sold to private individuals after June 14, '23 (according to Lavtox.se, but maybe it was just their license that expired then).
In any case, I can attest that it is incredibly effective against microbial growth. Additionally, it's excellent to mix 1-2% in water-based outdoor paint to prevent mold for a few years after painting.
I recall that it couldn't be sold to private individuals after June 14, '23 (according to Lavtox.se, but maybe it was just their license that expired then).
In any case, I can attest that it is incredibly effective against microbial growth. Additionally, it's excellent to mix 1-2% in water-based outdoor paint to prevent mold for a few years after painting.
Checked several places that sell Boracol. All require a company/license.M MagHam said:How is it with Boracol?
I seem to remember that it couldn't be sold to private individuals after June 14, 2023 (according to Lavtox.se, but maybe it was just their license that expired at that time).
I can, in any case, attest that it is incredibly effective against microbial growth. It's also excellent to mix 1-2% into water-based outdoor paint to prevent mold just a few years after painting.
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