Building Materials and Construction Technology
imported_hans: Hello, I am working on a renovation/construction of a "smaller" house intended for hobby use. This summer, I moved the first part of the house, where the "footprint" is approximately 3.50m x 3.60m. An equally large section will follow from the other end of the house. The plan was to extend these with a newly built middle section. I received a great tip to make the middle section a bit larger to
Byggstinsen: Hello! As a novice, I've been pondering the risk of cold air leaking in and warm air leaking out of the house. We recently had an air-to-air pump installed. The installer made a hole in the exterior wall (wood paneling) and ran insulated pipes, etc., through it. They sealed it from the outside with some kind of latex sealant and did the same on the inside. There is a small draft that you can feel
Oskarfaglefelt: [citat] The plaster should be changed [citat] but shouldn't it go all the way up then? It feels a bit half-done I think. But I have to let it stay.
jonaserik: Take what you want, lightweight concrete/leca/brick and use what you have in the storage, plaster mortar/lime mortar or similar, it works well for patching. You can, if you want, put a thinner part on the outside to be plastered, have a piece of styrofoam or rockwool between the outer and inner masonry, it will then provide extra insulation for the hole.
KJD: thought about it too, but it's soft lightweight concrete in the wall (only) and a little afraid that the rebar will tear apart the blocks, also see in other places that for example drain pipes are "hung"/supported by smooth copper pipes. If it had been a brick wall or a load-bearing wall, rebar would surely be perfect. Is this the recommended method? Considering that the wall is lightweight
rallysmulan: [citat] Yes, perhaps they were, that would be great. Ah, I will tell my husband to see if it's possible to fix it (I'm not lazy for not doing it myself, I'm disabled 😊). Sounds like a good, cheap, and relatively simple solution. Thank you so much for your response!
KJD: I found some products when I tried searching with "slutbleck," my following issue was that I didn't want to make holes in the sheet metal, as moisture could seep in there, and my repaired door sill is no longer hardwood. I'll look them up on the computer later, but they seemed to have a plastic part that might have been sealed. [citat]
patrikd84: Download Tibnor's construction tables, at the end there are dimensioning tables. 80 kN in total load should mean that you have calculated a design load that you need to transfer at 80 kN/4.2 m = 19 kN/m. 4.2 m is not in the tables, but the nearest larger is 4.8 m. So the smallest profile that can be chosen according to the tables is HEB200 but is likely to be somewhat over-dimensioned.
Tinototem: [citat] Recently moved into a newly built house with an attached garage. In the house where OSB, plasterboard, and insulated interior walls are standard. In the garage, there was only single plasterboard, so we chose to upgrade to OSB. Realized during the construction when we got the construction drawing that the two walls in the garage where one wall was 5.2 meters long with two doors and one
RogerHql: [citat] Water on metal... Probably only works on RF, acid-resistant!
Magnus567: Hello! Torpargrund with stone blocks as foundation wall. In some places it's a bit too airy for the house's subfloor, so I thought I'd fill in a bit with lime mortar. Is it best to fill in the holes from inside the crawl space or from the outside? From the outside, right?
Gabbe1: I don't know if there is an online service, but it's not that difficult to calculate. If I take the values you show above, dimensions, snow zone, and roof angle, the load on each pillar on either side of the gate becomes 30.061 kN according to byggbeskrivningar.se So we want a beam that can carry 61 kN of distributed load with a 4m span and with a maximum deflection of 13mm (span / 300 is the
Andreas_kalmar: It's only a mm, so apply a thin layer on that part of the plate that's there and carry on as usual.
Bläsa: I have a slightly larger outbuilding that doesn't have a floor. The outbuilding is built on raised concrete blocks, so the floor is just the ground. Now I'm planning to build a proper floor, but I'm a bit unsure how to do it fully. First, I thought about laying plastic on the ground as a moisture barrier, then tape all the seams to make it tight to prevent any ground moisture from coming up. Then
13th Marine: [citat] Sounds a bit like my experience before I discovered UX, but I don't think Duopower existed then. 🤔
droopy: Forestia, which manufactures floor particle boards, states that the vapor barrier should be placed UNDER the floor particle board. So if you follow the manufacturer's advice, there is nothing wrong with having the plastic under the floor particle board. It can be a bit difficult to seal any penetrations, but if the existing penetrations are properly sealed, it should work.
Jonatan79: Finished painted ceiling panel and nail gun work smoothly
rocketlauncher: Hi In search of 500m. Is there any equivalent to elbutik.se Frighteningly high prices, and it should be the same cable regardless of where you buy, one might think.
klosp11: I think of Anders Ölund, now Royal Warrant Holder 😊 if you really want something special
Chippe: It is possible to screw the trim into the door and window frame, but you might not want to. Adhesive holds well; I glued trim around wooden windows many years ago, and they are still there. I think I used construction adhesive or something else for outdoor use.
Denniis: [citat] Aha, I missed that part. No, my weak brad nails most likely don't go through aluminum. There are probably stronger ones, but that's beyond my knowledge. I would opt to glue the trim in your case. Alternatively, some smaller screws (white window sill screws?) that you won't notice afterward.
TheGame: [citat] Yep, that is the correct method. But apparently, after checking a lot of amateur instructions after it was mentioned here, gluing also works fine. But if you're joining on a wall and plan to wallpaper, the fiber strips have always worked well for me. On ceilings, I've used paper and joint compound, but as I said, glue also works fine. I'm not a painter, I'm an amateur, feels a bit like
droopy: I would cover with a brass profile or aluminum profile. Available in different profiles, e.g., as T which can fit between 2 floors of equal height. Available e.g., at Bauhaus, Byggmax among others.
fribygg: [citat] Hammer nails by hand or borrow a nail gun instead, buying fasteners or tools without thinking tends to become unnecessarily expensive.
Viktor.J: I've continued working and have come across a few more questions :) 1: Dark streaks of mold - how do I get rid of them? Sanding down removes too much wood, oxalic acid doesn't work. Any other way? 2: Filler for outdoor use. There are some cracks, small holes, etc. that might be good to seal. Bovalls recommends Ages wood filler, other suppliers claim it's for indoor use. What to do? 3: Could the
KJD: [citat] Yes, you probably won't do that since it's asbestos cement, but asbestos cement is extremely fireproof. I was mostly thinking that it is practically the duct we are using now, and it was approved by the fire authorities as recently as six months ago. But maybe it only applies to new installations.
KJD: [citat] probably with something as thick as 70mm - but I haven't tested it :). walk around and check a bit and measure, or take photos with a reference in the picture of what works.