Hi,
I have a nook in the hallway where I would like to put up shelves. The shelves need to support quite a bit, and my idea has been to let them rest on battens on the three sides of the alcove. The shelves are meant to replace the hat shelf that's there now. However, one side consists of a wardrobe built in the 60s, in other words, a surface consisting of two layers of hardboard with air in between.
The wardrobes have a frame that might possibly be used to screw the battens into; the problem is that the nook is deeper than I would like the shelves to be, so the batten would need to extend all the way while the shelves would go about halfway out, which doesn't look very nice.
Is there any way to attach the battens to the side of the wardrobe even if the batten doesn't extend the full depth? I assume it might be possible to use a construction adhesive of some kind, but then it becomes a permanent solution, and if you want to remove the shelves, it would mean taking down the entire side of the wardrobe.
Edit. An alternative would be to put up a board on the outside of the wardrobe wall. Screw the board into the frame of the wardrobe and then attach the battens to the board. However, it would be a slightly bigger job with painting and so on, and I would need to come up with a neat solution up to the ceiling. There are old ceiling moldings with a profile that the board would partially cover, so if there are other ways, it would be preferable.
I have a nook in the hallway where I would like to put up shelves. The shelves need to support quite a bit, and my idea has been to let them rest on battens on the three sides of the alcove. The shelves are meant to replace the hat shelf that's there now. However, one side consists of a wardrobe built in the 60s, in other words, a surface consisting of two layers of hardboard with air in between.
The wardrobes have a frame that might possibly be used to screw the battens into; the problem is that the nook is deeper than I would like the shelves to be, so the batten would need to extend all the way while the shelves would go about halfway out, which doesn't look very nice.
Is there any way to attach the battens to the side of the wardrobe even if the batten doesn't extend the full depth? I assume it might be possible to use a construction adhesive of some kind, but then it becomes a permanent solution, and if you want to remove the shelves, it would mean taking down the entire side of the wardrobe.
Edit. An alternative would be to put up a board on the outside of the wardrobe wall. Screw the board into the frame of the wardrobe and then attach the battens to the board. However, it would be a slightly bigger job with painting and so on, and I would need to come up with a neat solution up to the ceiling. There are old ceiling moldings with a profile that the board would partially cover, so if there are other ways, it would be preferable.
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Hm, interesting idea. It might work, I'm just a bit concerned about the strength. The load would be quite large at the outermost part of the screw, so to speak, if I understand your suggestion correctly. On the other hand, there would be a "tension effect" between the molding on the inside and the molding on the outside, so it might work.Düsseldorff said:
If you have a strip on the inside and one on the outside, the load will be on the screw and the holes on the masonite, and there the masonite is quite strong, so it shouldn't be a big problem unless you were planning to use it as a storage shelf for steel products.
If you attach it with construction glue, it should still be possible to remove them without breaking the cabinet, but you might need to do some filling, sanding, and repainting afterward. If you pry a little on the strip and cut with a utility knife or sand a putty knife, it should then be possible to scrape off the glue and paint.
If you attach it with construction glue, it should still be possible to remove them without breaking the cabinet, but you might need to do some filling, sanding, and repainting afterward. If you pry a little on the strip and cut with a utility knife or sand a putty knife, it should then be possible to scrape off the glue and paint.
Exactly right, the load is on the screw and the hole on the outside of the wardrobe. That was what I was thinking but described poorly.T Testarn said:If you have a strip on the inside and one on the outside, the load will be on the screw and the holes in the masonite, and the masonite is quite strong so it shouldn't be a big problem unless you plan to use it as a steel product storage shelf.
If you attach it with construction adhesive, it should still be possible to remove them without breaking the wardrobe, but it may require filling, sanding, and repainting afterwards. If you carefully break the strip and cut with a utility knife or sand a putty knife, it should then be possible to scrape off the adhesive and paint.
But if the masonite and screws could handle the load directly from above, as it would be if you placed a strip on the inside, isn't there a suitable plug that could be used to achieve the same effect? Essentially, all the load is on the screw and the outer hole, as you write, and some form of plug and screw in the outer masonite would achieve the same effect, wouldn't it? Or would the pressure between the strips provide additional load-bearing capacity so that solution is still preferable?
Okay, so adhesive might not be completely out of the question then. There will be screw holes if nothing else, which of course also need to be tidied up upon removal.
I guess a Molly or another drywall anchor might work depending on how thick the wardrobe side is. Or a through-bolt with washers.Jokmok said:
Exactly, the load will be on the screw and the hole on the outside of the wardrobe. That's what I thought but described poorly.
But if the masonite and screws were to handle the load directly from above, like it would be if you were to put a strip on the inside, isn't there some suitable plug that could be used to achieve the same effect? In principle, all the load is on the screw and the outermost hole as you write, and some form of plug and screw in the outer masonite would give the same effect, right? Or would the compression pressure between the strips contribute extra carrying capacity so that solution is still preferable?
Okay, so glue might not be completely ruled out then. There will be screw holes if nothing else which, of course, also need to be cleaned up upon removal.
Most adhesives come loose with heat, so a heated putty knife should work even on construction adhesive if you want to remove them in the future. Test on some scrap wood.
Otherwise, just screw from the inside of the closet with wood screws with large heads and/or washers.
You can apply a few dabs of adhesive if you don't trust the screws.
Otherwise, just screw from the inside of the closet with wood screws with large heads and/or washers.
You can apply a few dabs of adhesive if you don't trust the screws.
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