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10 replies
16k views
10 replies
Cement mortar A, plaster mortar B or C ???
Planning to give plastering a try for the first time soon and I'm trying to figure out which plaster to use for the greenhouse wall, but I'm not getting any wiser. The wall consists of lecablock and I plan to plaster only above ground plus a few centimeters below ground (where there is sub-base/macadam) for aesthetic reasons. Below ground, Cement mortar A is what I've understood to be needed, but what about the rest of the wall, B or C? I intend to use Finja's system and for both, the same is stated in the product sheet:
And how do you practically make the transition between Cement mortar A and the plaster?
I had primed with A-mortar and then plastered the rest with B. I recently built walls in the garden that way based on a recommendation from a builder who helps me occasionally. Not exactly according to Finja's instructions but it will hold up anyway.
We are also going to build a greenhouse soon and I will do the same with the foundation wall.
We are also going to build a greenhouse soon and I will do the same with the foundation wall.
OK, so according to your mason, grundningsbruk A is not necessary?
Another question in this context is what the total plaster thickness should be (grundning+putsnät+putsbruk). It's important that the outer dimensions are correct so that the greenhouse will fit on the wall later.
Another question in this context is what the total plaster thickness should be (grundning+putsnät+putsbruk). It's important that the outer dimensions are correct so that the greenhouse will fit on the wall later.
My advice for complicating things...
Go with cement mortar A.
I have plastered with standard fine concrete on a cinder block foundation, and it has held for 10 years now without cracks.
So as long as it's not hard on soft, and the substrate doesn't move, hard works.
/ATW
Go with cement mortar A.
I have plastered with standard fine concrete on a cinder block foundation, and it has held for 10 years now without cracks.
So as long as it's not hard on soft, and the substrate doesn't move, hard works.
/ATW
I happened to have a lot of Cementbruk A at home and I don't really understand what the difference is between Cementbruk A and Grundningsbruk A other than the price.mexitegel said:
But Finja recommends Grundningsbruk A and then Cementbruk A.
And people say IT is complicatedA ArneTW said:
Is it more difficult to plaster with cement mortar A than with plaster mortar? The surface is lecablock, so I assume it doesn't move?
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We were planning to spray our walls with colored noble plaster, and in that case, the substrate (the initial plaster) should not be harder than B. I also talked to my builder who mentioned that there are walls made with lime plaster that have stood for a hundred years without problems, so he thought B was almost too hard. Plaster manufacturers suggest using A for durability. But my (albeit limited) experience is that A-mortar becomes insanely hard. In terms of execution, I also find that Plaster B is easier to apply than A-mortar. It's more manageable and stays on the wall more easily than A-mortar does.
Regarding thickness, I calculated 15 mm. 3 mm for the base coat and 12 mm for the setting coat.
Regarding thickness, I calculated 15 mm. 3 mm for the base coat and 12 mm for the setting coat.
Yes, that's how I understood it too. But once the plaster is up, it's not a disadvantage if it's hard for our part, we will only paint the plaster, but as someone completely green on plastering, you don't want to make it too complicated for yourself either.
Hi, maybe a silly question but did you use mesh beforehand or do you just use Cement mortar A? Thanks in advance😊A ArneTW said:
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