Gable roofs meeting at an angle?

[Snailman]

When making an extension at an angle, does one try to have some kind of correlation between the width of the extension and the spacing between the roof trusses on the house body it meets? And I guess it's appropriate for the centerline of the extension to hit either halfway between two roof trusses or right on one....

sending a picture showing what I want to do...

 

[Linnex]

When adding an extension at an angle, do you try to have some kind of correlation between the width of the extension and the spacing between the rafters of the main building that it meets? And I assume it's appropriate for the centerline of the extension to hit either midway between two rafters or directly on one....

sending a picture showing what I want to do...

I'm not quite following what you mean.

You lay a horizontal beam on the old roof from the eave up to the ridge where the roof joins so that it becomes like a horizontal rafter on the old roof. You then attach the end of the roof decking or masonite, whichever you choose. Additionally, the new trusses, including those built on the old roof, are placed at C-C 120 except those at the very ends.
The positioning against the old house and rafters doesn't matter.

You do it so that you erect the new build and place out the trusses that will be on it. Then you use triangulation (feet and top) on the truss three-four rafters from the old house and run a line to the old building. This way, you get the placement of the beams that you will attach to the old roof. You leave the line at the ridge to get a reference line when building on the trusses that will stand on the old building.

I hope you understand what I mean.

 

[Snailman]

Thank you, Ok, I probably didn't express myself well... I didn't mean an extension on an existing house, but everything will be built new, then I guess you wouldn't lay any råspont on the lower roof, I assume?

 

[Snailman]

Trying to reuse my old thread, When it's time in practice...

Linnex probably has a solution that works, I'm wondering if anyone has any pictures of a new build, and preferably pictures of it before all the sheathing is nailed on, ideally also pictures from inside the 'attic' of the finished result.

A picture from the internet with the sheathing nailed on

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_qzKoFsDwuG4/S5-Y7VEsrdI/AAAAAAAAAOM/hxi9t97TdFM/s1600-h/058+-+Kopia.JPG

 

[Enk Projektet]

What do you want to know?
What kind of roof trusses are you going to have?

 

[Snailman]

the trusses will be standard ones for gable roofs, from a truss factory, so they will likely deliver the smaller triangles that will stand on top of the trusses on the larger roof.

So I want to know how it is usually done, for example attaching the small triangles, with nails? straps? they are on a slope you know...

then the ends of the roof decking need to be attached, it probably applies to both roofs, I assume in 'the lying truss' as Linnex writes...

to give me a clearer picture of how it should look, some photos would probably help quite a lot (or a 3d - cad image)

 

[Kallebo]

Three years later, but I have the same dilemma. How did you do it?

Is there any disadvantage to laying råspont on the roof where the other rafters then climb up?

 

[Snailman]

It's been a few years now, but I got a couple of triangles from the truss factory similar to what I drew. I think I placed the triangles first, and then laid the roof sheathing on both roofs. I let the sheathing extend to the next truss, so it goes under the truss but still leaves an opening where the sheathing meets. Inside the attic, I sawed a piece of lumber to a point so I could nail the sheathing where it met. I placed a piece of wood on top of the trusses that support the smaller trusses, preventing them from sliding down the truss's slope (like a slide).

I'll see if I have any pictures somewhere.

 

[Hosseal]

I don't quite follow what you mean.

You attach horizontal battens on the old roof from the eaves up to the ridge where the roof meets, so that it becomes like a horizontal truss on the old roof. You then attach the end of the raw wood or Masonite, whichever you choose, there. Furthermore, the new trusses, including those built on-site on the old roof, are placed with C-C 120 except for those at the very ends.
The placement in relation to the old house and trusses doesn't matter.

You set up the new construction and place the trusses that will be on it. Then you take three-point measurements (bottom and top) on the truss three to four trusses from the old house and run a line to the old building. This gives you the placement of the battens you need to attach to the old roof. You leave the line at the ridge for a reference line when you're building on-site the trusses that will be on the old construction.

I hope you understand what I mean.

What could be the size of the battens, is 95x45 enough... should they be upright or horizontal on the old roof?