Hello. I'm going to install a sliding section on a concrete slab.
How should I insulate between the slab and the threshold of the sliding section?

Best regards,
 
  • Close-up of a sliding door frame resting on a wooden structure, illustrating the need for insulation between the concrete base and door threshold.
Anyone have an idea? 😀
 
felt paper between concrete and wood
 
And ensure any water ingress can drain out on the outside with coverage at the bottom, so it doesn't flow under and onto the concrete. Important.
 
Okay. Thank you.
Is the slope on the slab also. Can you saw a piece of pressure-treated wood and basic felt to place underneath. So that the section becomes level. Instead of wedges.
 
W Wadersss said:
Okay. Thanks.
There is also a slope on the slab. Can you cut a piece of pressure-treated wood and roofing felt to place underneath, so the section is level instead of using wedges?
Depends a bit on how the connection is at the bottom; there are usually holes in the lower rail so moisture can drain out. It might be better if you go to a sheet metal worker and get some stainless steel pieces to place in between for leveling. Regarding the felt, it should not cover the holes if they exist, and try to ensure that the felt slopes downwards. On the inside, you can seal with some sealant up to about half the width of the rail.
 
J jonaserik said:
Depends a bit on how the connection is at the bottom; there are usually holes in the lower rail so moisture can drain out. Maybe it's better if you go to a sheet metal worker and get some pieces of stainless to insert in between to create a wave. Then, with the paper, it must not cover the holes if they exist, and try to have the paper sloping downhill. On the inside, you can seal it with some sealant up to about half the width of the rail.
I understand. This is what they look like. This is the outside of the section. A raw from beijer. Everything is in one piece.
 
  • Wood frame with glass panel installed, viewed from inside, showing the exterior part from Beijer. All components appear in one piece.
  • View of an exterior window section with wooden framing, showcasing a raw piece from Beijer in one complete piece.
OK then the doors hang like on the outside of the base, so if moisture comes on, it runs directly out. Clear with that then. Next, getting it level is best with metal (stainless) wood tends to compress and then the rail can sink, not good. Sealing on the inside ensures that pests, ants, and other things stay on the outside.
 
Thank you very much. How do you seal from the inside best?
 
W Wadersss said:
Many thanks. How do you seal it best from the inside?
It should be open if there are holes for moisture in the track. If there's no risk of it leaking in there, a sealant will work. Just remember that water can cling and go around, leaking backward underneath if it's not tight. There might need to be a threshold flashing at the bottom, similar to window flashing; it's not wrong, and it can be difficult to secure, but it can be glued along with the sealant underneath. Apply sealant and press the flashing in place, ensuring it's braced with some wooden pieces so the sealant can cure.
 
Then it was assembled and done. A sheet metal worker is supposed to come next week. But I would have liked to seal here before. Between the ledge I cast and the section.
 
  • Close-up of a wooden door base with concrete step below, highlighting an area needing sealing before a metalworker's visit.
No one with an idea?
 
W Wadersss said:
No one has an idea?
You'll have to see what waterproof sealant you can put in between. Is there a lot of space between?
 
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