Building Materials and Construction Technology
superlim: Yes, heel feed sounds like a good solution. An extra layer of plaster, how much does it contribute to soundproofing?
SaaraK: Hello! I've bought a house from 1946 and there is some kind of texture on the ceiling that we would like to remove, does anyone know what this is and how we can remove it?
luckmålare: I have an outbuilding on the property where the idea is to build a small apartment, currently, it has a crawl space foundation. The house stands on stone blocks, so it's completely open around. The plan is to add insulation, replace windows, panels, etc. There is also a room with a concrete floor for the hydropressor and incoming water. There's a musty smell in that room, next to it is a room
Amatören_Österlen: Hi. How did it go for you? I'm in a similar situation right now, and it would be interesting to see how you handled it.
RuneB2: Hello! Started tearing down a wall. In hindsight, maybe we went about it the wrong way? It's nailed really tightly with big nails. Just look at the growth rings on the 70 studs... Don't want to ruin the parquet. Some nails could be pulled out with a nail puller. Should I go as close as I can with a electric saw to knock out noggins for example 70s house, the wall was not load-bearing.
J0naz1: [citat] It is framed with about 30-40 cc. There is a wall built together with the old part, so as you say, that shouldn't sink, but maybe the other long side, two corners. If it sunk a lot, it could result in substantial movements in the angles you describe. Right now the room is filled with construction items, but I will clear it out eventually when I start the work. Then I will check to see if
Alexander Gustafsson2: Hello! I have built a cabinet construction where the middle cabinet has sliding doors, but now I want to try to reduce the distance between the sliding doors and the middle cabinet (note: the gap visible on the left in one of the pictures cannot be fixed due to the tracks for the doors). The middle cabinet is not permanently installed or load-bearing, so it can be adjusted or partially rebuilt.
felbjo: [citat] Hi I also had leftovers after installing about 40m2 last year.. I ended up burning mine.. if you have plans for any more rooms shortly, you could calculate the need and see if it might save you from buying an extra package...
felbjo: Hi I didn't think it through when I loaded in 1200x600 6mm tongue and groove MDF on Friday, so they ended up standing over the weekend and unfortunately got a bit warped. I've laid them down now with some weight on top. Do you think they'll straighten back out so I dare to lay them? It's not too much, but it's noticeable when you put it on a flat surface. I'm only going to have 6mm vinyl click on
Niklaspe: Anyone who can show some pictures of their eaves, preferably the transition between the eave and the gable. I'm contemplating how I should do it. Either a standard fascia box or try a nice transition to avoid the box. Can anyone give some inspiration?
Alexn72: Different colors on the plaster can be easily concealed, but not the irregularities. Regarding dropping plaster... put something on the floor and it's no problem at all.
Tompafix: I think the nuance difference is less visible than the brand anyway 😀 Not really a lacquer to recommend. But buy something from a well-known brand
naikon: [citat] Awesome, thanks for all the info! Now I have an idea of how to proceed. 👍
Testarn: You're not supposed to have a roof that bears snow or wind load, so you don't need an extra 195. I have 45x170 with a 3.5 m span without any problems.
anton.mar: Hello all knowledgeable people! I am going to open up the house with a new staircase where there is none today. The staircase requires an L-shaped hole or to angle a beam and create a straight opening. I am attaching measurements of the current joists (marked in black) and the hole that needs to be cut out. I wonder if someone with experience can see how a relief for the existing joists could be
flaektrem: [citat] Late reply now, but make sure your FTX system is adjusted with negative pressure
Studdy: Hi, We have a turn-of-the-century villa with a veranda where we have started tearing down the masonite walls. In connection with this, we naturally had a surprise in discovering that the 80x80 studs in the veranda's frame are rot-damaged. See pictures below [bild] The problem is that when it rains, water "gets sucked in" under the windows and drips via the studs down onto the sill. As a temporary
anojak: Hi, Designing a post foundation (4.8x14m) and wondering what is cheapest for the floor joists, glulam beams, LVL, or Kerto beams? The main beams will be glulam 90x315 partly due to the 'long' distance between the posts and also to accommodate 300 mm insulation in the floor structure. The floor joists will be recessed, and when looking at tables and the Swedish Wood's dimensioning program, all the
Skånepåg: Hi, (I originally posted the following under Ventilation, but since I haven't received a response there, I'm trying here instead). In another thread, I write about my renovation, where I'm building a new lecablock wall inside the existing timber-framed wall: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threa...ligt-korsvirkeshus.484111/page-2#post-5514853 In the room inside the lecablock wall, I will have it
Skånepåg: Hello, (I originally posted the following under Ventilation, but since I haven't received any response there, I'm trying here instead). In another thread, I write about my renovation, where I'm going to build a new lecablock wall inside the existing timber-framed wall: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threa...ligt-korsvirkeshus.484111/page-2#post-5514853 At the gable, the air gap between the walls
Elsparv: Similar doors at home and look like toilet paper rolls on the inside with a frame of wood (low quality): ------ |0000| |0000| |0000| |0000| ------
torparavgrund: [citat] Nope, unfortunately, you just have to pull it out and fill it again. Screw in a screw a little bit into them until you feel the threads catch, then use pliers on the screw to gently twist/wiggle out the plug. Trying to sand or use other "tricks" will only lead to a larger damaged wall area. If you are gentle when pulling it out, it rarely creates a hole larger than the plug's
z_bumbi: The glulam beams are already glued, so any advantages of gluing regular timber have already been achieved and surpassed. That is one of the reasons for using glulam. In your case, you lose a lot of strength, but whether it's sufficient is something you or someone else will have to calculate.
robbannnnn: Hello, I have taken down part of the cladding to repair a sill, previously the cladding bricks were nailed onto battens, and it seems difficult to find new bricks. Is there another way to rebuild it again?
Beaam: [citat] Thank you so much for the response! 😊