Building Materials and Construction Technology
FinneVirta: Hello! I would like to seal off a ventilation hole that has gone into our old kitchen cabinet/pantry. We are redoing the kitchen and that ventilation will no longer be of any use. I was thinking of pushing some insulation in there and then plastering over the entire wall. - Should I seal with something first, like foam sealant? Or is the insulation enough?
melanger: Tips are gratefully received for a good contractor in southern Stockholm! @Appendix feel free to send your contact even if it was in northern Stockholm and a couple of years ago.. :)
Vardagsrum: It can be difficult to determine what type of plaster it is.. Unless you're a bricklayer, that is 🙂 Lime plaster behaves a bit like you describe, it can basically be crumbled between your fingers. But weathered cement-lime plaster can also do that.. You can try breaking off a piece and placing it in acid (e.g. vinegar) and see what happens. If it's lime, it should dissolve and bubble.
MARTINOV: Hello! We have a so-called bläckhornshus that has been extended over the years. The original part of the house is identical to, for example, this: https://www.maklarhuset.se/bostad/sverige/ostergotland/norrkoping/tunnlandsgatan/257574 There is only a basement under the original part of the house, about 45sqm. The flooring is wooden. Due to odor and moisture problems, we need to remove all
Anonymiserad 618974: Okay, can't picture it, probably won't be able to help. But good luck with the project! :)
dahmar: [citat] Thanks! Yes, you’re probably on the right track because in hindsight, it seems much more sensible to get the post itself down a bit as well. However, despite the way I did it, there's not much margin to fit the fence itself at the height of the post, so it couldn’t have been driven too far into the ground. I think I managed to save the situation. I drilled two holes at the bottom of
Matti_75: [bild] Adjufix has solutions for most things
Gunnar Johansson69: [citat] Looks good, in retrospect I should have also replaced more panels. Especially above the windows where I put metal, it would have saved at least a day's work. But being stingy as I am… This year I will take the east facade. Scaffold rented for week 29...then I will never replace paneling again!
cpalm: It's perfectly fine to just repair what's bad. Of course, there's a point where it's not worth it, but if it's just small areas then... Whether it looks bad or not depends on the skill, difficulty level, what paint you use, and how meticulous you are. If it's smooth and flat, it's relatively easy to make it "invisible." If it's, for example, broom-finished, it's almost impossible to get exactly
Anonymiserad 405730: One scrubs it roughly or brushes it with a brush with harder bristles.
PHAS: Hello! I am planning to build a dock on top of an old stone pier this summer. The location is north of Gävle in a sheltered bay, but the ice can get quite tough. The building conditions are a bit special, but my intention is to use the pier to protect against the ice. Please see the picture below. On the "near side," my plan is to select the largest stones at the bottom, drill down some rebar,
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, with tongue and groove you get the least waste and with that, it can be economically beneficial compared to having staggered joints on the rafters, but the most durable is a joint on a rafter.
Anonymiserad 405730: Yes, as mentioned above they are suitable for interior walls, I would have placed them inside the plasterboard... They are not sufficient/suitable for ceilings and floors...
Kriss Marc: It looks like the bend to the outlet is higher than the dishwasher hose. Arrange so that the dishwasher hose becomes higher and the outlet becomes lower (the other bend is removed, and only 90° into the wall is used)
naikon: [citat] Hmm which post are you referring to? As for whether a strip needs to be there or not... well, no idea. I'm not a construction engineer by any stretch haha. But it probably protects against rain getting in? And the gate hooks into a hole in the threshold. [citat] Alright. Yes, it's probably better to get it done correctly. Still feels insanely scary to break into your house haha. It's a
bergquist: Thank you very much, then I'll go with 15 cm so I should be well covered when it's centered.
perBertilOlsson: [citat] [citat] Hi It's fantastic that there's at least one person with MoDohus, so I can take a chance and send a question... It's my ex-wife who has the house, but I help her as much as I can, and now the drawer cabinet, that includes the cutlery drawer, beside the sink is completely worn out. I can imagine yours might have been too. Do you have any idea where one could find such a cabinet?
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Copper rules itself out in private villas as fewer and fewer can afford to choose it, but in all culturally historic buildings, it will remain for obvious reasons.
Fredrik_D: I have cast a concrete countertop and the hole for the kettle grill didn't turn out perfectly even everywhere, so I need to sand it down. Does anyone have any good tips on a suitable tool to use for this? A regular diamond disc doesn't seem optimal since it's not a flat surface but a curved one.
AG A: [citat] Removing the stud does not require a construction notification. You can also remove the stud attached to the pillar. Now, I haven't seen any drawings of the house. But, considering the thickness of the beam, I must unfortunately say that it's probably practically impossible to remove the pillar. The only way, as suggested, would be a stronger beam. But unfortunately, it would become too
Beaam: [citat] Thank you so much! 😊 I will try it and let you know how it goes.
Mgns L: [citat] Aha, I understand. Thanks for the help and engagement.
ohlgren: I am going to install a Nordpeis Monaco. I need to build a base so that the stove has a level surface. (The stove should stand with the center over the edge of a step). The hole in the floor towards the wall will be used for air intake. My plan is to build a base of lightweight concrete blocks, which I will then cover with the same tiles as the rest of the floor, on the sides and on top. The
J_P_K: [citat] It's dry at the time of inspection but smells like mold in one corner. Unclear if it's drained. Unclear if paint remains on the walls or has seepage that indicates moisture. There are a bit too many x-factors to give any good advice on. And there's a bit lacking in terms of information about what you have in mind with the house, ambitions, and what it needs besides the basement.
E.Gronlund: As a new homeowner, there are many renovation ideas as well as questions about how to realize them. I am planning to replace the fireplace in the house (from 82) since it has done its job. I have looked at a new one, but the salesperson in the store suggested that I should also replace the pipe in the chimney. Suddenly everything felt like a big project, but maybe it's common to replace it when
kattkraken: Miter saw. Let the panel board extend over the edge, drew a line with a pencil to find the slope, and then set the saw. 4 out of 5 boards were the same angle, about 7 degrees. 1 out of 5 was something else, ranging from 5-9 degrees. Consider which side you want the beveled panel visible, and which side should show the end grain. It gives a slightly different impression to have the joint visible.
Pistol: Hello, I am planning to build a new pergola on my existing concrete slab. Previously, there were 115x115 glulam pillars on post feet. My new pergola will have 56x225 glulam beams as pillars. But how do I make a hidden, neat fastening in the pillar/concrete?
superlim: Yes, heel feed sounds like a good solution. An extra layer of plaster, how much does it contribute to soundproofing?