Building Materials and Construction Technology
Pyka: [bild] Used this when we installed a rail for closet doors on laminate with texture. Stuck like glue. Also used the tape to re-cover the stair treads with laminate boards. Then I covered maybe a maximum of 10 percent of the surface. The boards haven't come off yet after a few years. How it is to remove after many years is hard to say.
pwb: Have a construction drawing where the designer has specified a glulam floor beam 115x225 mm. Now the building material supplier says that dimension has a long delivery time, which can delay the project. Trying to understand possible alternatives. The lumber yard's suggestion to take 115x315 mm causes a lot of disruption in the construction. And the designer is abroad on vacation. Does anyone know
Henningelvis: Hard to see, but it could be chimney insulation, vermiculite. It looks a bit like gray leca. Might have ended up in the wrong channel.
Hans-Christian Karlberg: [citat] I will also be building a Larsen truss (on-site) in a new two-story building. You can absolutely do this yourself if you're handy with tools. Talk to a local architect to find out connection details to ensure that thermal bridging and moisture reduction are addressed (especially at window, roof, and foundation connections). Make sure ventilation, heating, airtightness, and thermal
MF3991: Hello! I have a house from 1937 with a rather worn staircase/entrance foundation. Until this morning, there were tiles on the stairs, but they have now been removed. The reasons are several: the tiles were cracked and leaking water, and they had probably been there for many years (I bought the house a year ago). The cracks in the tiles caused water penetration, which in turn led to the
VLJ: This is now a classic thread on the subject https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/jag-har-rivit-kattvind-nu-dunsar-det-i-hela-huset.481655/
Fredensjö: [citat] Thank you, that was a bit of my concern if there was an oak pole with the same bearing properties as spruce ☺️ But then I will simply cover the spruce pole with thinner oak boards.
Anonymiserad 618974: I think EHL planes oak in, for example, 27x95, maybe also 27x69. Check with them, would you. A carpentry shop can plane this otherwise, but it probably won't be dirt cheap.
gogul: I've asked professionals and received good advice, which I thought I'd share in this thread in case others encounter the same problem. The forces seem to be mostly downward, not outward. This also applies when hanging from the top extended bar. You can mount the ribbstol on a 28x70 stud (glespanel) against the wall to even out the load. The ribbstol is mounted with 5.5 mm carriage bolts against
Marsman80: [citat] I haven't used them yet actually. They are still strapped as a package so I can't see if they have warped until I remove the straps. However, I can see that they seem to have cracked quite a bit at the ends, so I assume that since the wood can't twist, it cracks at the ends instead. Unfortunately, they've also developed black mold on the sides and since I intended to use them unedged,
paralun: [citat] Regardless of what it is, it's easy to protect yourself if it's asbestos. Better to spend the money on protective equipment. https://www.av.se/produktion-industri-och-logistik/asbest/privatpersoners-hantering-av-asbest/?hl=asbest%20privatperson So, you need a half mask with a P3 filter, protective gloves, and single-use protective clothing. Then keep others away from the work area and
AndersS: I buy what is available in the DIY store, it's more important to find the right lengths with minimal waste than to worry about a "few crowns more or less." I have roofed all the sheds/storage with full-length, no joints. There will be a bit of overhang with full-length, but if you add some roofing felt or concrete slabs, they provide a nice counterweight, but no overweight. [bild]
JF.: [citat] The smallest piece ended up being 26cm, and it looked just fine.
Fideliox: Alright, I will try the mentioned methods. It feels like it might be difficult to get into the panel seams properly.
fribygg: [citat] Mtrl minerit is excellent for example for subfloor boards, can also work well for a chicken coop or similar since it is smooth and moisture-resistant, use mtrl or sell the whole boards on blocket! [citat] Life is dangerous;) as far as I know, the mortality rate is 100% regardless of minerit or not.
burton666: I'm considering a budget renovation of my porch so it looks decent for at least a couple more years. It all started when I was going to re-stain the decking but discovered that the actual fence/railing had started to rot at the bottom edge. After removing it, I discovered that the decking was also rotted through in several places on the right side where I don't have a roof. Under the decking,
Sargen: I usually appreciate when the OP gives a follow-up after asking a question, so here's mine: I left the somewhat questionable casting as it was and proceeded to build in a flower box at the bottom. And it actually made the whole structure surprisingly stable. So now I'm letting this go and moving on to new mistakes instead 😅 [bild]
Jonatan79: [citat] Note! In unheated or occasionally heated spaces, e.g., summer cottages, the vapor barrier is replaced with a windproof layer facing the room
Andreas Friberg1: [citat] Thanks! I saw it but ours has three equally wide "dalar" / indentations but it is similar.
topmount: If you're going to work with what you have, then fasten a plank as a guide and then let the saw do the work, i.e. apply very little pressure. I have personally used metal blades when I want straight cuts in hard boards.
Matti_75: Depends entirely on the dimensions of the timber we're talking about and the measurements of the original.
bergquist: [citat] Hehe yes, I did the same thing with the solar panels so always good to check, going to visit a gård in the fall so I can lower the premium and learn a bit
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Not wet, damp works better😉
ErikViktorMartinUrban: Thank you, so if I understand correctly, if I currently have drywall on the walls and put plywood boards over it, I don't need to do anything more in terms of fire protection. Regardless of the 8-meter rule? We live in a terraced house and the wall closest to the neighbor would be made up of a closet (behind the closet is drywall).
sinuslinus: The vapor barrier should be on the warm side of the insulation.
ralvejd: Remove the door. Remove hinges. Apply slow-curing epoxy into all cracks. Place plastic film on both sides of the damage. Place a straight and fine piece of wood on both sides of the damage. Clamp with two clamps. Coffee break 24 hours. Remove clamps, wood pieces, and plastic film. Sand. Paint.
Krulle_100: Thought about over the counter :) But I guess I'll have to order otherwise, thanks.
Razid: Now, after maybe a little too long, I have set up the lamp that I asked about. It's mounted with assembly screws without plugs, and I pre-drilled before screwing. Everything went great and it's firmly in place. Thanks for the tips and advice!