Building Materials and Construction Technology
MTech: [citat] The framework for the porch is built in 100×100. At the front, I have 4 posts at 3 meters, but at the back over the door, I probably need to offset the ridge beam somehow.
pelleulf: Found a new manufacturer: Wisniowski Good prices and they have both 40mm and 60mm thick doors. I've checked them out and they make a solid impression, especially UniTerm which is 60mm and has extra seals all around. 2800x2450 with motor and 2 remote controls approx:30000:- seems competitive as well. Anyone with experience with these?
BirgitS: The stairs can hang on that wall. Apart from that, walls that run across the house are rarely load-bearing; instead, it is usually the long wall that runs approximately under the roof ridge.
klaskarlsson: [citat] I would have used a "half" 12 m truss for dimensioning. In reality, it shouldn't be necessary for all elements, for example, the bottom chord is only half as long. However, the top chord is probably the same dimension and so are likely the support beams. But you probably need to calculate the construction to know exactly: Therefore, I would have used the larger dimensions if I wanted to
Forskande Fukttekniker: [citat] A tip is not to insulate with cell plastic-styrofoam against the subfloor of the crawl space. Preferably use a moisture-permeable material so that an installed dehumidifier can also dehumidify the floor joists with its insulation. Oil-hardened board works well as long as it is kept dry and dehumidified. There are also stiffer insulation boards that allow moisture to pass through. There
klaskarlsson: [citat] A railing (trellis, about 50 cm out from the wall should work, right? It's not a bad idea to make it easily detachable, or put hinges on the wall so it can swing like a gate when needed, for example, if you need to move furniture or something similar.
MrDizzy: [citat] Oh, a miss on my part. But it's BH here, so I guess I'll have to build my own version 😁
Munktells: [citat] Thanks! It's already done, just not visible in the pictures 😉 Do you think it's possible to make a big cross over the entire thing with the perforated tape, or is it better to zigzag through the entire length?
Thomas_Blekinge: Hard to believe there were such rules in the 80/90s. They must have had other plates/records underneath as the supporting part and then they placed something like tretex boards on top that left these patterns? Mysterious!
Dennis11540: Hello! I am in the process of building a 2-story wooden house with approximately 88m2 floor area on each floor. The architect has designed 2 glulam beams which I would now like to replace with an HEB or HEA steel beam. The architect is no longer available, so I would like assistance with calculating an appropriate beam. Is there someone in this forum who could help? (See pictures for more info).
Hampus55: Hi there, has anyone used silicone remover Pattex or Biltema? Or any other brand? I need to replace all the silicone joints in the kitchen and need to remove everything first. I've cut away most of it and there's just a film left. Also, the agent must not discolor the laminate countertop.
Aronovic: I have an old shallow kitchen cabinet that was probably in a corner - anyway, it's missing a mitered piece of molding at the top, which is profile milled similar to a cove molding, i.e., a rounded "groove". Now I'm wondering: how can I create something similar the easiest and cheapest way? I have access to a hand router, workbench, chisels, and several planes. The dimension of the "radius" of the
naikon: [citat] Ah ok yes that's probably correct. But as I said, it will probably only be loaded with a car a few times per year. In the worst case, I'll have to plan to redo it in a few years then.
jonaserik: [citat] That was something else, then you'll need to try to find as many studs as possible on the short sides and attach a stud that can attach to another stud. It can be done with a very thin drill or a 1 mm steel wire that is tapped on the end like a screwdriver, to feel through the gypsum where they are. It won't make any massive holes from that.
Eld: Slope 1:4 or 14 degrees is the minimum for roof tiles to work, but it is a good starting point even with other roofing materials.
ÉlPon: Now the wall is demolished. But any potential problems might only become apparent in the winter if the support legs press on the forearm then? Although they press far out quite close to the external walls, so I don't see how that would cause it to collapse, one side has never had a supporting wall approximately under the support leg.
cahomi: Hi I have the same question How did you solve it?
Argastesnickaren: How close can you place the stove? I used a fireproof board instead of plaster and was then able to move my soapstone stove 100 mm closer to the wall. 50 mm from the wall instead of 150 mm. I didn't want my stove too far out from the wall, so this was as close as it could get.
danne888: Thank you! Very good news, then I'll go ahead. Should I use primer before I use lagningsbruk?
spikplanka: Try to remove all asbestos in the house before someone accidentally comes into contact with it.
Fjonken: Here I plastered a kitchen with a gypsum-based filler, meticulously sealing but missed an electrical conduit. So it ran down to the basement. It's tedious to clean up and fix, but everything's possible :)
xei: [citat] Thank you for the answer! I checked with neighbors and the property manager, and the response was that it shouldn't be any problem to attach to the wood wool board. In theory, it sounds strange, but I have to trust the experiences from the area. It must be some board with relatively high density and not so porous. We'll see if it falls down :)
Björn2222: Thanks for the response! It was resolved with sdsdrill and wide chisel in a few hours. Next time it will be cooking oil :)
VLind: In a house from the 1940s, there is a concrete basement staircase that runs down along the facade as they usually do. It is completely crumbled, and the walls are frost-damaged with nothing that can be salvaged. Now I have been suggested to dig everything out, build up the walls with blocks and the steps made of wood. Does that sound sensible compared to casting one in concrete like before? The
Almedals: Hot melt adhesive and contact adhesive together
Husfixardoktorn: Hello, I am in the process of building a three-part baseboard similar to the one in the picture below. I have the floor baseboard and the panel molding similar to those in the picture, but what type of material is suitable for the middle section? The total height will be about 55 cm (17+31?+7 cm). It will be painted with a couple of coats of paint, so I don't think any wood textures will show
Matti_75: Shims behind to make it straight and lightweight concrete screws to fasten them