Building Materials and Construction Technology
tobast: Hmm, could I have found the material answer :) https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/asbest-golvmatta-75-76.524021/ Then the question is function?
Mats-S: [citat] The fireplace has glass doors and also a very deep protective rim before the actual firebox, so if you use the glass doors when you fire (?) there should not be any risk of sparks popping out onto the floor the times you light a cozy fire. If there are no sparks on the spark protection today, you can calmly lay the floor right up to the fireplace edge, problem solved and the most elegant
Bo arnold: A glued joint should be as strong as a whole board max cc 60 should be enough
z_bumbi: Drill through the reinforcement and use anchor compound? Sacrifice a good metal drill bit with a smaller diameter if you can't get through with the concrete drill bit.
Nawaki: that's a very good question! I'll probably try to investigate this in a good way, didn't even think in that direction that there might be something on the other side of the blue concrete.
blåbär83: [citat] Yes, I can do that, good tip! I don't think it should be any other water/that water would be getting into this particular wall, but good to be able to rule out of course.
svanstrom: Thanks for the responses! Then I'll remove the ceiling panel, soundproofing is of utmost importance because it's going to be a bedroom at the cottage for my kids who are currently sharing a room, and the older sister is starting to get tired of the little brother's noise :D [citat] Hehe, yes, I will probably replace the ceiling panel in the new room in the future, but it will have to wait a bit.
Anonymiserad 618974: [citat] Nail. Glue. Tape. Rivet. Bolt.
BirgitS: The likely purpose of the pillars was to stiffen the half-height walls so that they would not tilt if someone bumped into them.
FreQa: Glad you're interested in saving the beautiful wall! Instead of just repairing, I would try to think a step further. What is causing the damage? The tree behind it is a likely cause with strong roots pushing it out. Did the neighbor also have a tree? Then there's the usual soil pressure that few consider. If you want the wall to stand for a long time, it should be excavated clean behind, gravel
Rickard.: If you're going to have moldings, cut away to avoid unnecessary work, but if you're going to putty the ceiling and wall together, I don't think it's so bad either, but that also comes from a total amateur at this.
Intet: Mouldings on the inside of the door frame. Except on the hinge side. There, they are placed on the short side of the door leaf.
Guitarhero: [citat] Very difficult to push it down. I'm not on site anymore, so I don't know the model. It came with a white grate, and I filled the floor level up to that. I'm also now reading more on the installation instructions, and it looks like I should have removed down to the hard plastic lid underneath and applied the waterproofing at that level. I haven't used JAFO before. Purus hasn't been as
turbo100: Hello, I have purchased a couple of brackets and wall rails at Jem o Fix by the brand Pelly. I may later add pull-out drawers and am considering this one: https://www.jemfix.se/utdragsram-546-x-490-x-68-mm-pelly/1103/9051658/ Anyone know the CC measurement between wall rails for this to fit? I can't find the info on Jem o Fix's website or elsewhere (but I am admittedly terrible at finding things
Kurtivan: [citat] Ask the technician who comes to do the fire protection inspection or, if it's more urgent, the one the municipality has contracted for chimney sweeping.
topmount: Sounds like you agree on the usefulness. I'll have to check what's available, as usual, right on time. There's a significant price difference between different brands and compared to regular ones (I assume the manufacturing process is more complicated).
Johanna Carlsson1: [citat] Okay, I think the reason you don't understand is because it’s unclear to us whether the sill is currently against the facade or not, as parts of the facade have rotted away. What we're most worried about is having to break away the concrete sill, because what happens then with all the water, etc., that runs here & it would mean a much bigger project. We hoped it would be soil and gravel
BirgitS: Normally, there are supporting rafters (struts in the wall circled in red). When creating a dormer, it is done either between two rafters, making the dormer narrow, or parts of a rafter are removed and replaced by the rafters on either side, which are then reinforced (making the dormer wider). See here: https://www.byggahus.se/sa-fungerar-en-takstol#10335-traditionella-takstolar
Bertil1957: [citat] Yes, maybe so. The exterior panel is attached to asfaboard without an air gap, so I suspect that might also be the culprit. I am in the process of replacing the panel and also replacing the insulation.
ÉlPon: Is it possible to start with coarse concrete in the gutter and then, when there is 2-3cm left, use expanding concrete? Let the coarse concrete dry for a day before applying the expanding concrete. Or is that just complicating things? Is there a risk that the expanding concrete will just separate from the coarse concrete? Can I just use coarse concrete all the way and ensure it doesn't dry too
RoTe: Great to have ceiling height, to be able to drive in the tall SUV with the roof box mounted, etc.
jonaserik: It's not possible, everything is set from one side and inserted into a groove on the previous panel. So possibly a new ceiling it could be. Take a very thin drill, make a hole in the middle of a panel and feel how much space there is above.
P-G: [citat] Apologies for the lack of clarity - it is under the longitudinal roof strip where the window is mounted in pressure-treated wood, which also extends a few centimeters into the living part as the previous batch was somewhat deeper (30 mm)
Intet: That becomes 37.5 kg/m. 😄
crazytok: I'm planning to divide my small garage into two parts to create a little rehearsal space/music studio. It will be very simple and only used for hobby purposes when time and opportunity allow. Nothing super serious. I'll have some guitars, a digital drum set, perhaps a computer to record a bit for fun, and so on... I don't know how much it will be used, so I don't want to start by putting up inner
Limpan4all: Why would you want pressure-treated wood? Pressure treatment only serves a purpose with continuous ground contact (i.e., installed in soil). If it is above ground (approximately 150mm air gap) but can get rain on it, place a strip of tar paper/underlay on top so the wood never gets wet. If the task is to support a wooden deck, for example, the joists will last for at least three rounds of decking
jonaserik: Looks good, as well as space for electrical wiring between the studs.