Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bricky: It's going well, but start with cement slurry first, there are also special bags with (probably the same) stuff but I don't know what they're called and they probably cost a bit more.
ClasseClas: In the countryside, we used 28x70 and screwed OSB + plasterboard onto the U-shaped kitchen where right angles are a must everywhere when using standard kitchen products. 28x70 was screwed into the original plank wall with long wood screws with Torx heads. Adjustment was made with blocks and sometimes Masonite pieces right where the screws were. Thicker studs also work, but it's important to
stiffen72: Thanks for the input, great idea with windbreak paper as a cheap solution. Impressed as always by the quick and knowledgeable response one gets on this forum! Best regards //Staffan
Snailman: Well, I’ve done a bit more research, and it seems that for the intermediate floor, you can apparently use a recessed joist (on edge = recessed 45mm) on which the floor can rest, so you avoid cutting the standing joist which can then go from the sill to the top plate. It seems to be the same kind of joist that is often recessed under the top plate to support rafters that are not placed directly
imported_Byggaren: Do not use a homemade structure in that situation. You'll only end up struggling with it, aside from the risk of falling injuries to yourself, etc. Instead, you can borrow/rent professional scaffolding material from a construction company or scaffolding/machine rental service. Ask for Burton pipes and clamps (+ key to assemble the knots and scaffold planks) which are straight pipes in varying
nicdah: Imagine my surprise! When I tore up my kitchen floor on Monday, I was truly astonished. Between the floor joists, cement had been poured. And on top of this, it was filled with sawdust (in some places). Why on earth would they have done that? In all the other rooms where I have torn up the floor and insulated, they used rough lumber as the subflooring. Not cement!!! The house was built in 1926,
Marita & Staffan: Pinebar Sounds like a nice bonus with some better lighting. So your experiences are:........ What should you watch out for when it comes to interior walls??? What is good to have, what can you opt out of, what should you be careful to choose??? We are completely new to the industry and haven't chosen either a house or manufacturer yet... will probably bombard everyone with 100 questions later :)
MathiasS: At Tex Byggmax, a budget board is sold that even they themselves think is junk. Stay away from it. However, if you buy boards from the major manufacturers like Danogips, Norgips, Lafarge, etc., there is practically very little difference between them (none). Byggmax sells Lafarge, if I remember correctly.
zankan: In general, one can say that wood is more or less useless when it comes to soundproofing properties, due to its peculiar density... But sawdust is a different type as it, when used as filling, is supposed to do the same thing as wool... That is, not soundproof but absorb... And if you're going to soundproof abnormally, you use a traditional plaster wall and, for example, a brick wall to create
Nicke75: I am wondering about a wall in my basement that I want to remove. The wall is about 100mm and plastered. The ceiling in the basement consists of large concrete slabs (concrete flooring) and this wall is located about 2000mm from an exterior wall (the house in total is about 7000mm). Is it possible to support such slabs? The garage is located right before the room, and if you were to extend the
yoxler: aha! I missed that he wrote "a bit narrower" I will see if any neighbor has a milling machine I can borrow
BorisG: Hi, Is this the right forum, or is the tools and machinery forum the correct one? I'm going to add insulation to the exterior basement wall ... concrete wall. Is it better to use a nail gun or a hammer drill for screws? Has anyone done both and can compare? I may possibly lay a Platon mat between the studs and the exterior wall, depending a bit on the moisture level and what the drainage looks
Snowsmile: Drywall screws are superior, preferably the type like Grabber or Biltema with the characteristic "cut the paper" groove. Chipboard screws also work, but they leave an unpleasant volcano crater facing the wrong way, so to speak, and are easy to screw straight through.
Mikael_L: I find it hard to imagine that plastic 1dm up on the wall would prevent outward drying to the extent that it could cause damage. The plastic there might even provide a bit of protection if there happens to be a gap at the bottom behind the outer panel where water might otherwise splash in during heavy downpours. I wouldn't lose sleep over that solution. But NOTE, I'd be happy to hear a second
AndersS: Replace the OSB with a plywood board if you want to paint it, but you may have already bought the OSB boards and screwed them up.
ktm250: Is it not that it says EI30? That would be the fire rating requirement for the wall. Which simply means that it should withstand a standard fire for 30 minutes. There are different ways to achieve such a rating. It's not complicated since it's quite a low class. If I remember correctly, a stud wall with single gypsum on both sides is class EI30.
Helena_Gavle: Thanks for the tips! I made both a new MDF board just below the sink and also a lower one that the pipes went through, which I attached with angle brackets through the back of the cabinet and the plasterboard... Oh so steady and nice! Thanks
ktm250: Overkill with so much reinforcement, but it probably won't collapse if there's an earthquake ;) A buttress is made with two block lengths interlocking with the wall, i.e. 1200mm from the outer wall, supported by an L-iron.
ktm250: Everything depends on how high they build the walls, how closely they reinforce, what they are going to fill with, etc. Consult the designer who has calculated everything. In this brochure, you will find how to calculate: http://se.maxit-cms.com/media/22/pdf/leca/vaggar/murverkkallarytter.pdf
jonasob: I would gladly replace the beams entirely, but they are each about five meters long and go through two floors, so it's a bit more work to do that than just replacing a part. :-)
gadeberg: Hello! Now we're going to re-drain, and then the old veranda will be removed to make way for a new one. The entrance will be in the same direction as the old one. We've been considering a gable roof, but perhaps it's impractical if snow falls in front of the entrance? The new one will also be slightly smaller. I want it made of concrete so I can lay tiles on it. Is it the library where one finds
jon_h: You don't need to buy specifically Ardex stuff. Go to the nearest well-stocked construction store and buy the brand they have. It could be Finjas or Maxits stuff as well, they are equivalent.
Bror: If the veneer was originally mounted with a hot melt adhesive, then it works with an iron, so give it a try.
imported_Byggaren: [citat] q = N or kN per meter l = m (squared) ___________________ Byggaren
imported_Byggaren: Not off the top of my head, but Google wooden poles, wooden tubes, wooden masts or ask a mast builder, e.g., those who made the masts for Götheborg or the schooner under construction at Skeppsholmen in Stockholm. ___________________ Byggaren
olni65: When I made noggings with steel studs, I cut off a piece of stud that was about 30-40cm too long. Then, I cut into the 'sides' of the stud halfway in from the ends, which allowed me to bend the steel stud. Then you can place the nogging between other studs, and with the 15-20 cm on each side (which now point up or down), you attach it.
Larsa: I am planning to build a small shed by the road. The plan is to have a small door for the trash can, and a slightly larger one for bikes and car stuff like the pressure washer, winter tires, garage jack, etc. The plan is for the shed to be about 2x3 m at the short end of my parking space (due to the hilly terrain, I don't have the possibility for a garage, so I only have a "slot" for the car). As
pinebar: Start with the dirtiest, toughest, and most important tasks, I think. Then from top to bottom. Either drainage, the roof, or the facade first. If you drain first, you might encounter issues with the ground being loose where you need scaffolding for the facade (if you need it). But if six months pass in between, there’s no problem draining first. If the windows are being replaced, it’s