Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: A hefty hammer and bolt cutter for the rebar work well. Otherwise, you can also cut it into pieces, just as you said.
Jupiter: I am searching high and low for pre-painted grey baseboards in the Stockholm area. Does anyone know where I can find these?
ByggaNytt: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/3908-placering-av-troeskeljaern-till-garage.html http://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/3971-troeskeljaern-eller-inte-i-garage.html http://www.byggahus.se/forum/grund-markarbeten/14301-troeskelstal-i-efterhand.html
fredwel: 3.8-4.8 kg if the weight is 2-2.5 tons/m3 /fredrik
PatrikJ: Hello The extension we are going to build will be in wood, but since one wall will be below ground level (souterrain), I am thinking of building this one in leca. Is it okay to only build 1 out of 4 walls in leca or do I have to build all of them?? See attached picture /patrik
stefant: OK, thank you for your answers. Then I'll buy the budget gips. /Stefan
imported_Byggaren: It depends on how the balcony slab is supported. If it is only supported on one side against the floor slab, it is necessary for both it and the balcony slab to be cast simultaneously so that the reinforcement at the top of the balcony slab can be extended into the floor slab. This results in a restraint due to the cantilever moment that is converted from tension to compression via the ridges on
Totte_S: [citat] Considering what you wrote, I intended to give advice from an overall perspective. But many architects, preferably slightly older ones, are also building engineers. If not, the architect can always provide tips on a suitable engineer if necessary. It's also possible that you will find a wise and sensible carpenter who can give you lots of tips and advice. On smaller projects, it's often
Watchmen: Know that you need a license when working with a bolt gun. Not sure if it applies privately. Also, remember when using it not to press too hard. Because then a guide rod will break. At least on Hilti.
P-plats: Googled a bit and found information from '04 and '05...
zachris: I found out from my constructor that s-180 means the iron should be placed c/c 180 mm and that all the letter designations can be read about in "Typblad 2A" http://www.fundia.com/reinforcing/sverige/produkt/125/armeringsblanketter.pdf There you can see that -N is a "rectangle". Fun, learned a few new things today too :)
andersmc: It can withstand moisture for a while, as long as it gets the chance to dry. But when you say "outer wall," do you mean that the asfaboard should be the outermost layer? That won't work in that case. But it can be placed inside a panel, with an air gap.
snickarboden: Masonite strips are excellent for maintaining distance and lifting the boards from the floor. /Kent
Larsa: It is a sandwich construction with honeycomb core. A quite common construction, when it comes to things other than interior walls. I have never seen/heard of anything similar. However, sandwich constructions with Styrofoam as a core are more common in the construction world. The advantage of a sandwich construction is that it becomes incredibly strong in relation to its weight.
karmajoyst: I have talked a bit with builders and suppliers. Here's what they said in summary. When building with lightweight concrete, you glue the blocks together to form a homogeneous structure. If you're only building one floor above ground, you only need to reinforce where you place U-blocks (doors, gates, windows). Now the slabs are cast, and the lightweight concrete for the garage is scheduled to
JesperS: Agree, I have the kitchen fan on the same duct as a vent on the upper floor and it smells like food in that room when running the fan .....
tallmilan: Or for us gadget enthusiasts, you can buy a joint cutter for the Dremel.
BAS: I became curious, want to get it myself. What do you think about this? Interwood - 031-515151
BAS: Hello Mr_XXX "Why Leca?" If you have carried in or out 1.6 cubic meters of macadam in a basement or bathroom, you probably understand why Leca is preferable. I have personally carried out 15-16 cubic meters of stone/gravel from a basement, it was considerably more pleasant when it was replaced with Leca and cellular plastic.
Schwingen: It can have different names; in the following link, it is called, for example, Stenvallspanel.
Mikael_L: And you should probably be a little careful with the silicone so it doesn't end up in the wrong places. For example, it is usually impossible to paint something with good results if any form of silicone has been in contact.
JLT: I assume you have matte tiles? On glossy tiles, it usually works to polish with cloths, but if the surface is matte, the grout sticks very easily and it's almost impossible to remove the residue of grout & adhesive. I found a product at Bauhaus, from Mellerud (MELLERUD Spezial Produkte zum Reinigen, Pflegen, Schützen) called something like "Cement residue remover." It cost 90:- and my kitchen
P-plats: A fine-toothed blade is not wrong, but above all, consider that MDF dulls the blades a lot and that you should have as many teeth in the material when you're cutting as possible. I mean you shouldn't set the saw too deep if you know what I mean...
Peter_K: Tore down the boards as they were already full of nails. The råspont feels flat and nice, so it should be good to nail the panel against it. The electrical wiring will be left as it is in good condition, admittedly from the later part of the 60s but the cables look fresh. The ceiling height is probably higher than it appears to be, 240 cm.
Totte_S: If I summarize your answers, I interpret them as the increased dimension of the beam compensates for the increased load/moment, provided that the current beam is loaded in proportion to its dimensions. The primary aspect I should consider is the permanent deflection. I think I feel a bit more confident about this now, especially since I wasn't entirely sure from the beginning that the previously
p3C: Kottlingar are board pieces attached to the building structure behind the wall panel; these kottlingar are intended to reinforce the wall (so there is something to screw into) where you wish to mount heavier items, e.g., radiators, cabinets, or fixtures.