Snailman
What are the rules of thumb?

How short should the spans between supports on the ground floor be? (between load-bearing walls on the ground floor, that is) If there are openings in the walls on the ground floor, how long can they be before you need to use steel beams instead of wood?

Is there any other method than cutting all the studs and, so to speak, stacking one house on top of the other? (I have seen with gable roofs that sometimes the wall studs continue all the way at the gables, and sometimes not) Correction: what I'm thinking about here is probably when placing on a roof truss, and that's not the same as another story.

How do you do it if you want a balcony (with the floor joist) There are probably two options here, either you just take longer floor joists, or the floor joists are 90 degrees to the floor and how do you do it then?

When choosing which direction you want the floor joists, what do you base it on?

Does it then matter in which direction you have the roof trusses, compared to the floor joists? (alongside or 90 degrees to them)

That turned into a lot of questions :D... (The reason is that I want to design a manufacturable house)
 
Snailman
Well, one less question, read that the floor joist is usually in the same direction as the rafter, so it's not a requirement then.....
 
Snailman
Well, I’ve done a bit more research, and it seems that for the intermediate floor, you can apparently use a recessed joist (on edge = recessed 45mm) on which the floor can rest, so you avoid cutting the standing joist which can then go from the sill to the top plate.

It seems to be the same kind of joist that is often recessed under the top plate to support rafters that are not placed directly over a joist.
 
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