Building Materials and Construction Technology
youppie: Have a house from the early 60s that was built as a summer house, but mostly used as year-round residence. What was once the entrance to the summer house became a bathroom when the toilet was taken into the house. The height is only about 2m to the ceiling (~4.5° roof slope) and the roof currently consists, from outside in, of roofing felt-underlay-plywood-expanding polystyrene boards (about 1-2
smil: [citat] I assumed so. But you can always try :-) It's the first day after the vacation...
Faidros: "One such building material is blåbetong, which was manufactured between 1929 and 1975. This building material was used in small houses, both in exterior walls and in load-bearing and non-load-bearing interior walls as well as in floor structures." Riksdagen.se "Demolishing blåbetong walls can be a suitable alternative if it is a matter of non-load-bearing partition walls. This is an
Tezla: Stepkit naturally becomes more expensive, though I don't have an exact figure for every krona, but in total for 12 steps, it was between 5,000 - 6,000 SEK. Since it's oiled oak, it's not slippery at all. We have chosen to lacquer ours to protect the stairs a bit more, yet we do not feel that the stairs have become slippery. /T
klaskarlsson: [citat] It can take anywhere between 1-20 years But I would think that after a couple of years (say 2-5) you could try to see if it's damp, even if you might have to check several times over a year, or if there are traces of old moisture. Even if it hasn't yet developed into a real moisture damage. Then it's not certain that everything is ok just because of that, it might go so slowly that you
aggen: I will build an extension to the old house that is under renovation. There will be a connection between the new and old parts in the form of a "corridor." I'm considering how we should ventilate everything. There will be waterborne underfloor heating. If you install an exhaust air heat pump, you get ventilation included, but the duct system can't be fitted into the old house. Another option is
Glebster: [citat] Define thick. The steel is a maximum of 0.5mm thick. The bulge right at the corner is slightly more but necessary to apply a millimeter of filler. If you think it's too thick, you can make a cutout in the plaster and countersink. Edit: Typo.
jon_h: Yes, but keep in mind that it can get messy with grouting and then tiling the wall, so make sure to cover the floor properly when you are working on the walls. And ensure not to walk on the floor before the specified time, as some adhesives are quite slow. This is especially important with small tiles.
Rypos: I need to build a retaining wall on a slope to hold back soil masses. The space created should serve as a parking area for a boat/car/wood etc. The wall will be about 1.90m high, 4.0m wide, and 6.0m deep in angle. Initially, I thought of following Finja's instructions and building the wall with LECA. After talking to a foundation guy, I was directed towards concrete blocks, which he says are more
jon_h: I completely agree. The margins are as large as possible in stone houses, and quite small when building with lightweight construction techniques using organic materials.
krillek: What dimensions do you need? A board fence that is not made of planed pine is hardly worthy of the name, but larger dimensions are usually not as commonly stocked...
Johan Gunverth: Put up a substantial beam that you embed the stone into. This way, the beam disappears into the stone. It requires a bit of effort to carve out the beam profile in the Leca, but only a few centimeters are needed. Consider using HEA180 or HEA220. I personally have an HEA180 for a 3.6-meter opening. It was required according to the house engineer. With a parallel beam at the other end of the
Daydreamer: it works excellently! you should definitely prime. it says in the pdf file: "not intended to block rising moisture from the substrate" and you don't want that! DD
jon_h: Oops, I read carelessly. It sounds really strange to keep the window in the wall, of course you remove it.
yens: ok, great, I guessed it would be 4 or possibly 3. They are probably of "medium thickness", I don't perceive them as either particularly thin or thick...
Daveo: Well not with just cement; a bag of repair mortar is better suited for filling that kind of thing.
rudivoller: Hello! I am planning to install a basement window but I don't know how to proceed. The window is approximately 400 * 50 cm and should be installed in the space shown in the picture below. At the top of the space there is an old wooden beam, on the sides there is granite, and underneath are concrete blocks. The space is also somewhat larger than the window, approximately 30 cm. I would gratefully
Poggan: Hello teka! I suggest you give a call to Kakel och Klinker Kök Badrum Svenska Kakel Göteborg Malmö Helsingborg Halmstad Skåne and check with them. Maybe they can provide a good answer on what you should do and use! Good luck!
Nalle48: I have a chimney that is built with thin slabs of natural stone. The joints are starting to crack, which among other things results in water leakage. What mortar should be used to make it both durable and watertight?
tokan: [citat] Smart! Sometimes you don't think beyond the end of your nose. Of course, I'll call them. The house doesn't come in prefabricated blocks; it’s a stick-built house, though everything is pre-cut so your tip is indeed very applicable. I’ll try to get hold of the instructions in good time so I can pass them on. Thanks for the tips!
Tornhill: Hello again. We have renovated ours. When we bought the house, it consisted of a wooden beam structure with a loosely placed (held down with bricks) metal roof, which sloped inward toward the middle 8) When I tore down the ceiling, I found approximately 400 liters of water that was standing in the waterproofing layer... We have cast a new slab on site (it is a brick house) and then we applied
mattiaswahlberg: I have found the following companies that sell teak or other precious woods. Not all sell to private individuals. But you might have a friendly company/building supply store that can make the purchase. Interwood Kärnsund Wood Link Cederträ Väst Fredricsons trä
CurreOrrell: Yes, it will probably be a "total renovation" (let's see how bad it is). Do you have any idea how thick the laminated wood board should be?
skcorpion: [citat] ok. but if you interpret the text correctly, round holes are not a problem if you place them correctly. And my hole is probably placed ok if you compare with the image, right?
Linnex: I would like to install facade stone on an inner wall. The stone I am interested in probably weighs around 35-40 kg per square meter. It will be about 5 sqm, i.e., 200 kg + a stove weighing about 200 kg that will stand in the corner. What can a double drywall wall handle and how do the floor joists hold up? It is a crawl space, and it is about 1 m to the retaining wall.
nihtila: [citat] Thanks for the answers!! The entire drawing is the attic floor from a bird's-eye view, no balconies/decks. It looks like they have laid down 4 45x220 on the beams outside the support legs (kattvinden). It is right over the beams that correspond to the stairwell. Just as if they are reinforcing the beams that are cut off...
jon_h: No, of course you can't know what I work with. :) The chipboards themselves might have similar bending stiffness as regular chipboard flooring, although it would sound strange to me, but it's precisely the issue with the sheets that makes me unsure if the gluing can handle the same shear forces as when gluing to regular chipboard, and therefore if the plaster's bending stiffness reinforcing