I think we've encountered another small mine...
This place provides so much knowledge that would have been impossible to gather otherwise.

The inner walls... Of course, we want to be able to mount shelves, paintings, and other items on them.
We have, for example, a heavy wine rack that we plan to double (custom-designed). It is very heavy and holds 14 bottles.

What material is best for inner walls if you want them to withstand some load?
Different experiences from different manufacturers?? Some manufacturers seem not to use such walls that hold up.

What do you say??
 
The very best is probably the old model with raw "spont" under the plasterboard.
Next best is plyfa + plasterboard or OSB + plasterboard or chipboard + plasterboard.
The worst is probably just plasterboard.
If you know exactly where the wine rack is going to be, maybe you should try to get "kortlingar" into the wall there.

All our walls that we build are OSB + plasterboard. Where old radiators, kitchen cabinets, or other heavy items will be, there are also "kortlingar".
 
pinebar

The problem is entirely new to me. In my world, when building a house, it's obvious that you can put things on the walls... but apparently, that's not the reality.

We don't even know which house we'll have yet, so it's hard to say exactly where we will burden the walls.
OSB?? Kortlingar?? What does that mean and plaster + OSB how durable will it be??
Many questions arise :)
 
OSB is a type of coarse particleboard that is placed behind the drywall on the entire wall. With such a board behind the drywall, you can screw moderately heavy things onto the wall. Exactly how heavy I do not know. Kortlingar are horizontal studs that are attached inside the wall (i.e., when the wall is being constructed) where, for example, kitchen cabinets are to be fastened.

As I understand it, walls with single drywall are only standard in most newly built houses that you can buy. (One of the reasons we instead bought a house from the 1930s where the exterior walls consist of 6 cm of wood on the inside and the interior walls approximately 1.5 cm of tongue-and-groove wood on each side. There you can screw up anything anywhere.)
 
pinebar

What do you do then??? When choosing a house type, should you decide where on the walls you might want to hang heavier items, or should you make sure that all interior walls that might be loaded are built with OSB + plaster? What might it cost... it sounds like it can add up to quite a bit of money...
It sounds completely absurd that the interior walls are built as durable as "papier maché"...
Do you have any experience with how different house manufacturers do it??
 
No, I don't know any more details about this, we build our walls ourselves and then do as we want.

It probably costs a lot extra to include OSB in the walls, I have no idea how much. Keep in mind that a little insulation in the interior walls can also be good, making the house quieter. It doesn't seem to always be standard.

I also think it's silly that the house suppliers suggest single drywall, but it's probably a cost issue as usual. You might want to check with the group of suppliers here on the forum, for example, which ones can provide sturdy walls if you want that.
 
I'm not a construction expert, but:

It's possible to hang quite heavy items on a simple drywall with the right mounting devices, meaning it's generally not a big problem. Do you have concrete walls where you live today?

It's a luxury to install various types of building boards behind the drywall, which should be weighed against other upgrades over normal standards. The advantage is that you can just screw directly into the wall wherever you want and it holds most of the time.

If you want to hang something really heavy, it's good to hang it on one of the wooden studs that sit behind the drywall and run from floor to ceiling. A kortling is a short piece of stud that is nailed between and perpendicular to these, meaning in a horizontal direction. A typical example is when you want to hang a toilet bowl.

Building boards insulate very well, which is yet another reason why some people want them, especially if you place something inside the wall that fills the space.

/Pontus
 
My experience says that the cheapest option is sufficient, i.e., putting regular chipboard behind the plasterboard. Then you can hang shelves with two screws, and they will hold without problems (I weigh over 90 kg). Kitchen cabinets work excellently too. I don't think it's a luxury to easily hang up whatever you want.

Choosing råspånt behind the plasterboard is throwing money down the drain if you just want the ability to easily hang things up.

A chipboard costs about 100:- including VAT (12x1200x2500), and it doesn’t take long for a carpenter to put it up. If you have a 100 sqm house, you would need a maximum of about 100 boards, so the material cost will be 10000:-. The extra time for the carpenter is at most a couple of days, so that will be, say, a maximum of 10000:-. Total cost under 20000:-.

Of course, you can spend the money elsewhere, but I think it's worth it.
 
Constructum

Thanks for the advice. Followed another thread where I hear that insulation isn't standard either... How are houses being built today really??
How much is it worth to add insulation... are there places you can "skip"??
Does it increase heating costs?? Noise volume??

Pongu
Well, the material in our walls today varies a lot... Only have bad experiences from the past apartment where we had put up a shelf on the wall that one day crashed down and left big holes in the wall... Not fun...
Where is the line for really heavy??
 
Yes, I also have bad experiences from apartments with single drywall walls. Once you've put something up with drywall anchors, half of the anchor remains as a large metal blotch on the wall if you move something. A hole from a regular screw + plug is much easier to hide by painting over or patching the wallpaper.

We had many wall-mounted shelves in that apartment, which alternated between concrete walls and single drywall. In the concrete, there were really no problems as long as you used a good drill. But with the drywall, you were always worried it would break apart and fall down.

Another interesting thing was that when we moved from this concrete - drywall apartment to a 1940s apartment with entirely plastered walls, our stereo system started to sound incredibly much better. You couldn't really believe it was the same equipment. The acoustics were simply much better in the 1940s apartment.
 
Pinebar

Sounds like a nice bonus with some better lighting.

So your experiences are:........
What should you watch out for when it comes to interior walls??? What is good to have, what can you opt out of, what should you be careful to choose??? We are completely new to the industry and haven't chosen either a house or manufacturer yet... will probably bombard everyone with 100 questions later :)
 
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