Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: I looked at leca in the capillary-breaking fraction 12-20K in big bags, and it was around 6-700 bucks per cubic meter if I remember correctly.
jon_h: I would think that the boards will be able to support the plaster, but of course, no one can answer for sure without knowing how the particleboard is attached. The best thing is if you can screw the plasterboard with long drywall screws so that it is pulled up into the ceiling joists, then it won't hang so much on the particleboard.
zoom: [citat] I didn't know that OSB is 3 mm below the standard.... Thanks for the information :)
saturnus: Yes, that is correct jon_h, it's not easy to explain.....................but why on earth... does it end up like this. Wouldn't it have been easier, from the start, for the one who is plastering to set up a couple of strips where the trim will end up, and plaster up to these. Then you get a trim that is straight, just like the door frame, one would assume.
Bigfoot: The hand-tightening was mostly to test how tight the screw was, not a method I planned to use directly. Anyway, I have tried with a new and more powerful screwdriver now. It works better, but some screws can only be fully driven in if I set it to near max torque, while others disappear into the board if I'm not quick to stop. In other words, it seems there is quite varying hardness in the
Mats: I like building with wood but in this case, it's almost to the point where I would say use metal studs just to ensure it's perfectly straight. If millimeter perfection is a requirement.
jon_h: Normally at least four weeks before spackling, or 1-3 months before tiling, depending on which products are used.
ByggaNytt: See previous threads here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/50421-luftspaltsbildande-cellplastskivor.html http://www.byggahus.se/forum/415477-post7.html
andersmc: These waves usually occur when there are resonances in material or machinery. It can be an unfortunate combination of cutting thickness, speed, and feed rate. It might be that you should instead increase the feed.
Staffans2000: [citat] Well. If you plan to place your mother-in-law or similar in the attic, the staircase would only be open temporarily. With such a solution, without a connection between the floors, an airier construction is preferable. Kind regards: Staffan
Skogsbananen: tjacka klara och blästra? I don't think you can see contours if the person isn't standing very close to the glass wall.
Mats: ordinary outdoor sealant from byggmax or similar on the outside to make it tight and then maybe a splash of foam sealant on the inside as insulation? Just be very careful with the amount of foam sealant. It swells like hell.
JesperS: A layer of wallpaper was the only thing I was allowed to put on the chimney according to the chimney sweep. Besides painting, that is ....
Jesca_j: They were in the store anyway!
Mattias84: Still in the drawing stage but would like as many tips and ideas as possible for an extension. I currently have a 1 1/2 story wooden house from '39 with an unfinished basement, and I plan to build an angled extension from the house, but not with a basement. I need as much info as possible on what to consider, which materials are best, pictures of how others have done it, basically everything, as
zankan: The ceiling is a typical nice suspended ceiling. Commonly referred to as a "grid ceiling," there are several brands and types... First, the framework, i.e., the metal pieces that form the squares... There are 2 types T16 and T24, which are the measurements of the profile. These are made by numerous suppliers. Then there are 2 major suppliers of the tiles. Ecophon and whatever they're called,
carra: We have raised the ceiling by 20 cm in a room where there is a functioning open fireplace with a Handöl insert. The chimney, which was plastered later, lacks a few centimeters in thickness compared to the "unplastered" part, plus the edge between the old and new plaster is not so fine... I would like to "avoid" plastering the chimney... What can I do instead? In other words, suggestions for
brevik: Hehe.. Thanks for the tips, but we might have been thinking of something a bit more "normal" :) We have Dooria oak doors in the rest of the house. Much of the house actually features oak and white.
AndersS: Many of the rules and recommendations that exist are general and based on different risk scenarios and currently known facts. This means that it is often possible to solve a construction both more simply and cheaply if one is aware of the risks/consequences and conditions for what one is going to build. If you look back 50-60 years and the different recommendations that have existed during that
zachris: Ah, so you use mounting tape to "suspend" the pipe a certain distance from the ceiling, and then attach the tape to a clamp that holds the pipe itself in place? Then it's just a matter of understanding what the other seven devices are supposed to be used for :)
magaxe: Almost. I have an invoice for the L-elements when I poured the foundation just over a week ago. The house has 48 m of exterior wall and the double garage has 31 m. Sill elements 300 in height were used for garage entrances. Toothed joint plates are used to nail the L-elements together. Sill beams are placed together with the edge elements in the garage (with mounting brackets). This gives you a
snickarboden: Flat roofs are the worst cases to work with, and it is incredibly difficult to make them watertight. Here you should first of all talk to someone who really knows concrete about how to repair the crack. I don't believe in just pouring in mortar; instead, I envisage cutting around the crack, placing some supports underneath, and then casting. The problem is that rebar may have been damaged (read:
Nicke75: Thank you all! It feels safe to tear it down now, everything indicates that it is not load-bearing. Of course, I will tear it down at a slow pace so I don’t get the roof on my head if it turns out to be load-bearing ;)
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Not if you nail it as I wrote, with battens along the rafters and two battens in the middle cc 40 cm, nailed to the sub-roof/watertight roof panel. ________________ The Builder
MrHell: Hello everyone, I have recently moved into an atrium house with a large garden (Malmö) and we are very satisfied so far. More or less all the windows in our house are bad, and we have ordered new ones. In conjunction with the window replacement, I was thinking of changing the facade cladding facing the garden. Currently, the facade cladding there is made of eternit. It is damaged in some places,
fialottabus: On the box of our oak staircase, which we bought for 31' from the house seller/house company, it said KA design.
Aji: Thank you for the kind words (they warm :)) and the good advice. Have been a bit afraid that even the smallest change in load-bearing walls would become a real massive project, but that may not be the case, and it feels good to hear.