Building Materials and Construction Technology
bink: Finjas self-leveling compound is known for smelling bad. It's not dangerous, it disappears, but it takes a little time if you just leave it be.
pinebar: It probably depends a bit on what is going to be next to the wall as well. We are going to build a new wall that will be between a shower and a sauna in our basement and will be tiled on both sides. There, we have been recommended to use masonry. The other walls we will frame up.
pleqtiz: ahh now I understand! I must thank you so very much :) and for the CAD sketch :D now I'm off to do some carpentry thanks again
brorzan: [citat] That's if I find a stud. I gouged out another wall to add more sockets for dimmers and there was first a sheet with soft shavings that was light, then inside it was similar but thicker and darker... # bror
imported_Byggaren: Yes. It is possible to nail into lättbtg. The nail is called klippspik, but it is not recommended. It is best to drill and plug with plastic plugs from the Fischer brand. _______________ The Builder
esox71: Ooooh it's absolutely wonderful. Just HATE standing there with the trailer and of course "my" dimension is out. Though I agree, knowing what lengths were available would have been worth gold. It always ends with having X number of meters left over in waste just because they had the wrong lengths :).
bruschen: ...you can glue with wood glue against the studs and then screw. Then you shouldn't need any additional bracing. It might be nice to avoid the hole strips... If you were to calculate this, I would guess that you could easily justify the whole thing with screw-glued particle boards.
para: I bought stainless steel rebar at Silvan, diameter 5 or 6 I think it was, cost a few tens for a 2-meter one.
abel48: I am going to build a new balcony. Do I need any kind of metal sheeting on the wall where I attach the balcony? I was thinking so that rainwater doesn't run into the wall and insulation. It is a south-facing wall. /Anders
synpunkter: I don't see that, but building with wood and then plastering is not relevant for my part.
villa: I will frame an entrance where the door will be angled because the wall ends are of different lengths. What do I do with the studs that are closest to the door frames? Do I just rotate those studs? In that case, the tips of the stud will point outward, and the bearing surface won't be ideal since it will be tiled on the inside.
bruschen: The difference lies in the axial load of these two profile types: A cold-rolled KKR has stresses in it, and because of this, columns cannot be made as long in KKR as VKR in the corresponding dimension. I always prescribe KKR when I produce construction documents, which allows VKR to be chosen in the same dimension if desired. I don't believe the dimension you mentioned for KKR should be any
Alko: Sounds perfect! That I didn't think of it myself..... Thanks. Best regards/ Alko
Chinaski: I have thought of using these: Product Database I have also used them as blindbottenskivor.
imported_Byggaren: Normally, a beam form is built on two longitudinal ribs (planks in dimension 2½"x8") over temporary props. On them, joists are laid out perpendicular, cc 30 cm, extending half a meter on each side of the future btg.beam, and a form bottom is nailed with 3-planed boards, 22 thick, as wide as the beam + 2x22 mm on them. Then, sides are raised using panels of nailed together 3-planed boards and
zachris: What sizes are we talking about then, do you think, and what type of support might be relevant? I'm a bit keen on a rectangular hole, say 2.5 x 0.5 m.
carlbanan: Call Schenker or DHL and ask... They definitely know where you can sell some pallets... But if they are red or green, you shouldn't tell them, because they usually want their own back... :)
Snailman: Here's how I would have done it (I've done it once for a garage), I would go to the library and borrow the truss book, check if they have a truss that fits in the tables, then I would check which snow zone I had, not in the book, (as it might be a little old) but in the latest (They have recently changed) for example here: http://www.takstolsfabriken.se/doc/snozon.pdf In the truss book, it states
jon_h: Not sure what you mean, but golvgips is a completely different thing, a harder and stiffer board that should not be replaced with regular gypsum.
andersmc: I can point out that I haven't paid anything yet. If the screws had arrived, it would have been billed. So I've only lost a bit of time (and a bit of trust in sales companies). But it is interesting that the phone number goes to Legionova (a company that apparently has a marketing idea to sell things that are normally free - photo albums on the Internet, for example). They also own the domain. I
P-plats: Regarding the moisture in the attic, it is very common and nothing to worry about in most cases. Everyone who stays in the house emits moisture, and activities such as showering and cooking also release moisture. This rises with the heat and up into the attic through, for example, the attic hatch. Once up there, the moisture is released because cold air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air.
snuttjulle: Well, I mostly did the masonry work and placed the crosses as I went along to get the distances right. Then I placed stainless steel bars as reinforcement in the middle of every three layers to be on the safe side. This reinforcement was also drilled into the sides of the existing wall.
Linnex: When I spoke with my insurance company regarding the relaxation area construction, they required a wet room floor when there was a risk of water spillage on the floor, but as long as there was no moisture release in the air, they had no requirements for moisture-proof walls. I don't know what building regulations say.
jon_h: I interpreted it as the column would protrude into the room a bit, but now that I read more carefully, I see that is probably not the case. I don't know what it's called, but it's not a contrefort, just as ktm says.
JPM: Plastic wood has helped many players. Do-it-yourself building tips renovate remodel building products renovation tips countertops change windows kitchen cabinet doors bathroom drainage moisture http://www.byggtjanst.se/Byggkatalogen/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemId=181588 About glue and paste and interior like glue plastic wood oak cco.
naresjo: Planning to build a sundeck between the garage and the storage shed. In between there will also be a fence. The fence will have an opening with posts, handrail so the fence will be a longer part (with posts) and a shorter part. Now to my question, how do I attach this to the framework WITHOUT the fence becoming wobbly?? Are proper bolts enough?
sommarbygge: Starting next week, I will build a 48 square meter cabin. I plan to mount the base plate lying on its side, then the wall studs, then the roof trusses, and the floor last. I bought a Construction DVD and saw in the film that it was built differently. The base plate is mounted on edge, then the floor joists, then the wall studs, and finally the roof trusses. This method required a support beam
holyanna: Thanks for the response, I hadn't thought of that option. It might turn out quite nice depending on what you find.