Building Materials and Construction Technology
v-g: A pipe that "tattles" when it leaks, i.e., flows out where you can see.
jon_h: In your case, it's likely nothing to worry about; it's probably shrinkage cracks, and the filler does not have a reinforcing function in your construction since you have 300 c/c in the joists. However, fast-setting floor filler should not be left uncovered for too long, especially not when the indoor air is dry. Feel free to post some pictures of the whole thing, and it will be easier to assess.
Harlin: Thank you for the response! Since I can get an I-beam with a height of 150 mm for free, I was thinking of placing it under the 3 laminated 45*195 beams. But to further reinforce, I was considering adding 2 more beams where I've laminated 2 45*220 mm joists together. (See attached image). I guess this is stronger than cross-bracing? Am I making a mistake by doing this, or is this a good solution?
jawen: It is of utmost knowledge to build effective noise barriers, most of which are, to say the least, unsatisfactory. It is important to contact someone who works with acoustics, and calculate from the frequencies that are most prominent for you, the lower the Hz we talk about, the longer the sound wave. For example, cars have a certain frequency band, trains have another, and chatting people have a
jawen: Using c-bruk and reinforcement every other layer sounds good, as long as you don't let the mortar freeze, there is no risk of problems. Best regards, jawen
trojlee: I am going to install moldings in the basement, have laid platon and ship flooring... but will put spacer blocks between the wall and molding to create an air gap. I want to put some kind of sealing strip between the molding and wall to make it airtight but still allow air to pass through... I've seen it but don't know what it's called or where to buy it..... anyone know??? Best regards / M
emil22: Is it okay to have cc600 in the ceiling between the joists if you are going to nail beadboard? Will the ceiling sag? Or is it fine?
andersmc: There is a rule of thumb that you can have the plastic 1/3 of the thickness into the insulation. In this case, there is no solution that is 100% perfect. There are always a series of compromises that need to be weighed together. If you place the plastic a bit inside and it happens to condense there occasionally, you need to weigh that against placing the plastic on the outside but having lots of
jon_h: What are you going to use it for? There is fire-resistant mortar, it can withstand much more than that.
vagabondo: Hi! I need to complete a wall that has an older type of plasterboard (9mm). The only available option in the same thickness is so-called outdoor plasterboard. Could there be any issues if such boards are installed indoors?
it-snubben: Yes, you are probably right about that, Mats. Plasma technology generates a lot of heat.
Bror: jon_h, you are probably right. The time between filling and surface coating was indeed short, with klinker, which is not a particularly dense material, but still a surface coating. However, I didn't encounter any problems.
PatrikJ: I am planning to insulate a lecavägg on the inside. Is it possible to use gypsum plaster on cellplast, with a plaster mesh as well? / Patrik
Miles: Cheers! ... then it will absolutely be primer because I have large heavy 60x30 tiles on 2 sides and up to the ceiling on the gypsum side, so I prefer to play it safe there. Awesome forum this is :)
Foolse: on a cc 300, I would think that you could nail anything without the floor becoming wobbly. If the floor joists are not that thick, you can add nogging to increase stability. But the simplest is, of course, to lay chipboard. Personally, I would probably lay raw wood planks if the rest of the house has it. Regards /Ove
anaitis: [citat] Almost right: The support at S3 is not for holding the roof, but for having a floor structure, i.e., to be able to furnish the upper floor.
commando: http://www.imexab.se/swe/snap_toggle.html These can support weights of over 170kg/per bracket on double drywall walls. Gothia's website http://gothiafastteknik.jetshop.se/
Gurnett: It's time to tackle the next project on the house. We have a split-level house built in '65 that has blue concrete in both the interior and exterior walls. I will jackhammer and remove the concrete floor to insulate (10 cm gravel and 20 cm Styrofoam among others) so we can have underfloor heating with water pipes. I also want to remove as much of the interior walls as possible. We have, for
yens: Hmm, feels like a case where you'd want to consult a constructor. I got pleasant feedback from the constructor who looked at our concrete house, he had both good solution proposals and the dimensions were a bit smaller than I had thought to "guess" at.
Roggert: Thank you. I guess I'll just have to stand and break some tiles in the store. ;) Of course, there are quite a few material costs, which is why a cheap tile would be perfect since we're talking about fairly large areas. There are also opportunities to buy klinkers by the pallet to bring down the price, if I understand correctly. I'll have to look into it.
pinebar: In our (furnished) basement, we are only going to skim coat the plaster and paint it in a suitable color. We have been recommended to use Alcro Sockel, even though it is actually intended for outdoor use.
petepete: [citat] Aha! So no double gypsum is needed? I'm also working on a garage, attached to the house. I have nothing in my papers about fire safety, etc. Do I need to consider double gypsum, or can I just ignore it? I'm also using external gypsum. But it's only 9.5mm. Also pondering over the garage's inner ceiling. Does it need to be double gypsum too? As mentioned, I have an upper floor. Then I have
Tobbefonsterfixare: I don't really understand what it's intended for either.. but you can soak wooden strips for a few days and then bend them.. the best way is probably to "boil" them, then it goes a bit faster and becomes more pliable..
-PLM-: Hello! I am doing a thesis at KTH on radon in building materials abroad. I am currently researching Yxhult and their "blåbetong". I have some unanswered questions that I have been trying to get answers to for a while, but haven't received any help from Yxhult themselves. I have seen that there are many knowledgeable people hanging out here, so hopefully, I can get some guidance in the right
ama3282: Yes, they are real stones. You can see the stairs in the picture. The stones are very even and nice. The man who built the house was a stonemason, and that's why it's nice to preserve the stairs.
Martin_Blomberg: Don't know if this is of any help: These three are located in the basement of apartment buildings, and what struck me when I went in there was 1. The warm, humid air. 2. How the basement and the ceiling/floor of the apartments above have not been water-damaged. Can always call and find out how they managed to solve the problems: http://www.sodermalmsakvarieaffar.se/index3.htm
Somchie: Considering putting up black limestone on one of our hallway walls. What I wonder is if it's "just" like installing regular tiles, I’m mostly thinking about the weight and if I need to install special drywall or something similar?