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12 replies
6k views
12 replies
Chipboard+gypsum boards on horizontal studs?!
I have a discussion that I would like to bring into this forum and see what you think.
If you have standing chipboard and plasterboard with offset seams on horizontal studs, cracks should not occur when painting, right?!
And with OSB boards, there should be a few millimeters between the boards due to possible movements, while with chipboard there doesn't need to be any gaps between the boards or at the floor/ceiling...
What do you think?
Kind regards, Fridhem
If you have standing chipboard and plasterboard with offset seams on horizontal studs, cracks should not occur when painting, right?!
And with OSB boards, there should be a few millimeters between the boards due to possible movements, while with chipboard there doesn't need to be any gaps between the boards or at the floor/ceiling...
What do you think?
Kind regards, Fridhem
That's how I've done it and it seems to become completely stable.fridhem said:
That's correct as well. OSB isn't 1200 mm wide but 1197, precisely to allow for a small gap.fridhem said:
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
Applies to all continuous surfaces up to 10m. In any case, angled transitions (inner corners, wall to ceiling) should have a gap of a couple of millimeters. To get it really good, you screw and glue the particle board to the wooden studs. A bit of work, but the reward is really stable walls.fridhem said:
But using the feeler gauge isn't such a bad idea either ...v-g said:
But as TS writes, I get the impression he means horizontal studs, then vertical chipboard, then vertical plasterboard with staggered joints...
In that case, isn't it better with: horizontal studs, horizontal chipboard then vertical plasterboard... or?
Maybe I misunderstood the construction ...
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
Yes, it's easier if the horizontal ones are c/c 60cm, which is usually the case. It might be good to screw the plaster in slightly tighter rows too, like c/c 40cm in vertical rows.Mikael_L said:
So you mean that it's better to "lay" the plasterboard down? The main thing must be to stagger the joints, right? But the plasterboard still has to be as close together as possible if you're going to paint, must make it easier for the spackling. Or am I wrong...
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
No. You lay the chipboards down, screw them in place, and then screw the drywall standing onto the chipboards. Drywall becomes very cumbersome to plaster and sand with horizontal seams.fridhem said:
Can't understand the point of laying the chipboard down instead of just having both the chipboard and drywall standing. It would surely be stable anyway.
Does the drywall always have to be joined at a stud, or is the chipboard sufficient? It probably has to be done that way since it's not cc 60 everywhere.
Does the drywall always have to be joined at a stud, or is the chipboard sufficient? It probably has to be done that way since it's not cc 60 everywhere.
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 228 posts
Horizontal chipboards have fewer vertical joints, about half as many.fridhem said:
If you have vertical boards, you most likely have boards long enough not to join them on the short side. The long-side joint never meets a stud, so the chipboard is the only attachment point.
fridhem, if you have horizontal studs, then the chipboards will fit well horizontally too. Then I think it's enough to have chipboard behind the drywall joints, but of course, the joint must not be at both the chipboard and drywall at the same time. But the drywall should be vertical anyway. That's how I would dare to do it anyway.
Unfortunately, I have an inner measurement of 247 cm (long story), so it will be incorrect if I lay the chipboard down, but otherwise, I agree with that technique. Due to the construction company that built the foundation for me, I have a lot of work now afterward. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
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