I have a discussion that I would like to bring into this forum and see what you think.

If you have standing chipboard and plasterboard with offset seams on horizontal studs, cracks should not occur when painting, right?!

And with OSB boards, there should be a few millimeters between the boards due to possible movements, while with chipboard there doesn't need to be any gaps between the boards or at the floor/ceiling...

What do you think?

Kind regards, Fridhem:D
 
fridhem said:
If you have standing chipboard and plasterboard with staggered joints on horizontal studs, there shouldn't be any cracks when painting, right?!
That's how I've done it and it seems to become completely stable.

fridhem said:
Also, with OSB boards, there should be a millimeter gap between the boards due to potential movement, whereas with chipboard, there doesn't need to be any gap between the boards or against the floor/ceiling...
That's correct as well. OSB isn't 1200 mm wide but 1197, precisely to allow for a small gap.
 
fridhem said:
H...while with particle boards there is no need for a gap between the boards or at the floor/ceiling...

What do you think?

Best regards, Fridhem:D
Applies to all continuous surfaces up to 10m. In any case, angled transitions (inner corners, wall to ceiling) should have a gap of a couple of millimeters. To get it really good, you screw and glue the particle board to the wooden studs. A bit of work, but the reward is really stable walls.
 
Placed my shavings with gaps too, you never know :) If you're going to have drywall over it, there's no great point in making super precise gaps except for the ego.
 
Mikael_L
v-g said:
I also set my chipboard with gaps, you never know :) If you're going to put plasterboard over it, there's no point in making super precise gaps other than for the ego.
But using the feeler gauge isn't such a bad idea either ... :D

But as TS writes, I get the impression he means horizontal studs, then vertical chipboard, then vertical plasterboard with staggered joints...

In that case, isn't it better with: horizontal studs, horizontal chipboard then vertical plasterboard... or?

Maybe I misunderstood the construction ...
 
Mikael_L said:
...In that case, it might be better with: horizontal joists, horizontal chipboard then vertical plaster... or?

I might have misunderstood the construction ...
Yes, it's easier if the horizontal ones are c/c 60cm, which is usually the case. It might be good to screw the plaster in slightly tighter rows too, like c/c 40cm in vertical rows.
 
So you mean that it's better to "lay" the plasterboard down? The main thing must be to stagger the joints, right? But the plasterboard still has to be as close together as possible if you're going to paint, must make it easier for the spackling. Or am I wrong...
 
fridhem said:
You mean that it is better to "lay" the drywall down? The main thing must still be to stagger the joints, right? But the drywall must be as tight together as possible if you're going to paint, it must make it easier to plaster. Or am I wrong...
No. You lay the chipboards down, screw them in place, and then screw the drywall standing onto the chipboards. Drywall becomes very cumbersome to plaster and sand with horizontal seams.
 
Can't understand the point of laying the chipboard down instead of just having both the chipboard and drywall standing. It would surely be stable anyway.

Does the drywall always have to be joined at a stud, or is the chipboard sufficient? It probably has to be done that way since it's not cc 60 everywhere. :confused:
 
Called waste and is equally boring every time for cheapskates like me for example. Save them in hopes of future use. If you think about it when setting the rules, you can minimize sheet waste.
 
fridhem said:
I can't understand the point of laying the chipboard horizontally instead of just running both chipboard and drywall vertically. It should still be stable.

Does the drywall always have to be joined at a stud, or is it okay with the chipboard? Probably has to do that since it's not cc 60 everywhere. :confused:
Horizontal chipboards have fewer vertical joints, about half as many.

If you have vertical boards, you most likely have boards long enough not to join them on the short side. The long-side joint never meets a stud, so the chipboard is the only attachment point.
 
Mikael_L
fridhem, if you have horizontal studs, then the chipboards will fit well horizontally too. Then I think it's enough to have chipboard behind the drywall joints, but of course, the joint must not be at both the chipboard and drywall at the same time. But the drywall should be vertical anyway. That's how I would dare to do it anyway.
 
Unfortunately, I have an inner measurement of 247 cm (long story), so it will be incorrect if I lay the chipboard down, but otherwise, I agree with that technique. Due to the construction company that built the foundation for me, I have a lot of work now afterward. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
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