Building Materials and Construction Technology
mrsax: I'm considering plastering an unplastered concrete wall in the basement. The problem is that it's painted. Or is this a problem? Can you plaster a painted concrete wall or do you need to remove the paint first? If so, what's the easiest way to do that? /Daniel
bindar: I am going to remove a wood stove and replace it with a soapstone stove (960 kg) and need to reinforce underneath with a cast "pad". The chimney, which is a steel pipe, will remain during casting and laying of tiles, etc. How do I attach the chimney - first during the time I cut it off - and then suspend/support it while I work on the floor? The stove is against a flat wall (not a corner). Would
lexus: Thank you for that! Then it will be regular gypsum on the ceiling. :)
Baloo: I have used chipboard/OSB boards throughout the house, I think it's worth every penny! It may not be necessary in all walls, but it still feels good to know they're there!
nordicx: If you are planning to open a hotel, I recommend that you contact your local emergency services first and also a fire consultant. I've seen too many "DIY builders" convert various premises into hotels, for example. It's more expensive to redo, much easier to get it right from the start. Fire protection is more than EI30, especially hotels that may have the highest requirements according to the
Milkshaken: I need to edit my post I see.. not 57mm screws but 75... Sure, you can have 22X45, but it's harder to put the screws in then.
magnusss: Thank you for the responses. I have now built up the platform (40cm) with Lecablock where the stove will stand. My intention was to do the rest with Ytong. But I'm a little uncertain, maybe I should build around the stove with solid brick to get a warm wall and thereby more heat. In that case, one could later continue with Ytong up to the ceiling (I will place a Microlit board against the
Manberg: Of course, it's hard to say, but I'm quite sure it's not load-bearing, at least it doesn't support the roof; however, the wall that goes across might have a function to hold the house together in the middle, so it doesn't become a "sagging stomach." But creating larger openings in it shouldn't be a problem either as long as you keep the top beam intact. (meaning across the wall)
hilife: [citat] Well, I'm not going to straighten the walls, that won't work, but at the same time, I don't think I can live with "wavy" walls (then I'd probably get seasick ;-). Last night, I sat in the kitchen staring to try to figure out what I think is best, and those who did this job 50 years ago (the previous renovation) probably realized the same thing I did—that it looked best to frame and put
Bastefallarn: I'm not an expert, but I talked to a structural engineer today about my own flooring; he said that 45x220 can handle a span of max 4.20 at cc600 in terms of normal deflection tolerance. However, in a garage loft, one might have slightly lower requirements.
Stringfellow Hawke: Today, the priority is to avoid the spread of smoke and facilitate evacuation. Once everyone is out, it doesn't matter much if everything burns down, as in a fierce fire everything would likely need to be demolished anyway. The reason buildings are not made of stone is that it is extremely expensive, mainly due to the amount of labor hours, it's poorly insulated or requires extremely thick walls,
styrman1: Our ridge beam is 115x630 but partially built-in so it looks like 115x300. white-glazed. damn nice if I may say so myself
T3ZZ: Fortunately, there were no problems with the stock. So I can't provide any price information. Now we'll see if we buy the house *fingers crossed* // Tezz
Milkshaken: Fun that they have started with reinforcement also now.... So is it new rules from July 1st this year.... Well, then there's no doubt about it... Just reinforce ,,,, But otherwise the 644 is very smooth to work with.....
funkypirate: Forget this, sometimes you shouldn't write before you think.
ktm250: KC plaster is a term for the content. Lime and Cement. It is available in 3 different classes A, B, and C. C is the weakest of the three. "Plaster mortar C" or "Masonry and plaster mortar C" are the same in strength but probably differ in aggregate size where masonry usually ranges from 0-2 and plaster from 0-1. There are always specials for everything, but we won't go into that. Generally, when
Apprentice: I raise the question. There must be someone who has seen the advantages of incorporating better sound insulation and almost completely eliminating thermal bridges while the timber remains inexpensive. All thoughts are valuable to me. Are there other solutions along the same theme? Those of you who have built well-insulated custom timber houses... how have you done it?
Bror: Really nice, but be careful with small children on such an open staircase.
Mats Bengtsson: [citat] It's not that difficult. Basically, find where the beams are, figure out a spot where the attic hatch can sit without having to cut one of the beams, and then cut an opening to the attic between the beams. If you have trouble figuring out where they are, try to find a gap between them and cut a peek hole first. An attic hatch is less insulated than the insulation you should have for the
vojma: You need to have braces on the sides! Otherwise, it will fall like a house of cards! /V
Ajaxx: Should you let the latex dry a bit before applying it? How long does it take for latex to dry?
Milkshaken: A bit difficult to say without a picture, but if you want it in an older style, perhaps a piece of smide would be fitting.. That is, to create a nice bracket.
Perstorp: Is there usually no felt under the tiles on cottages from the 1800s, or is this something unique?
jon_h: I had ripped out the carpet and either glued down floor gypsum or used leveling compound 12 mm to achieve sufficient bending stiffness.
CalleMange: It may also be because the salningsbräda, if it is in furu, was not properly dry when it was installed. If you have placed a board directly from the lumberyard, it can certainly shrink 5mm in width, which causes cracks between the casing and the board (nischen).