Tools for cutting a neat hatch in the gable?

[Daniel_N]

Curved skull? And how do you then get the saw to move forward/backward over the guide rail at the end? ______________ Builder

Of course, the saw can't run over it, so you have to move the rail. The reason is that it might not be so nice to drill new holes in a rented rail.

 

[Daniel_N]

Otherwise, it can't saw backward with it. My Festo definitely does not have a springing riving knife and I doubt it does on the newer models. If so, the function is gone. It should engage when there's resistance forward so that the saw doesn't come flying toward the person sawing. _______________ Byggaren

The TS55 has a springing riving knife, and no, the function is not gone. It springs when you lower the saw, but it does not spring "lengthwise," meaning when it goes forward. So, again, do not remove the riving knife if it can be avoided, which it basically always can.

 

[Daniel_N]

I do NOT recommend using a circular saw in any configuration.... Especially because it is on a ladder... We have removed the riving knife in all situations, but you have to be prepared for kickback if you're not used to and can't "read" the saw...

Why do you assume that one has to remove the riving knife? That is completely wrong. See post 10 for how to start with the riving knife on.

Otherwise, I agree with you that a reciprocating saw/jigsaw feels safer on the ladder.

 

[imported_Byggaren]

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See post 10 for how to start with the riving knife on.
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Your response is not directed at me, but still...

The method of pushing forward while pressing down the saw applies to a circular saw with a pendulum guard. With a plunge saw, it's enough to press down the saw and it moves forward on its own when the riving knife engages.

These are two different techniques, depending on how the saw is designed.

However, neither of them can cut backward when the riving knife is mounted.

On the other hand, the plunge saw is trickier to work with because you can press down the saw without starting it. When the blade teeth are on the surface and you start it... the kickback comes like a letter in the mail, which my son-in-law experienced when he was cutting a board with mine and didn't understand that you move the lock, start the saw, then plunge it down. It ended that time with a scratch on the rail.

And it's just as bad to be positioned too far back and stretch too far forward, lifting the front of the saw when you reach the end. Then the blade is not protected. It's easy to wobble with the saw, and the blade touches the rail before it stops, which also results in a kickback when you're off balance.

And you likely won't need to drill new holes in the rail either. However, changing the screw to FH without a washer is necessary.
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Byggaren

 

[Daniel_N]

Your reply is admittedly not directed at me, but still...

The method of pushing forward while pressing down the saw applies to a circular saw with a pendulum guard. With a plunge saw, it's enough to press down the saw and it will move forward on its own when the riving knife engages.

These are two different techniques, depending on how the saw is constructed.

But neither of them allows cutting backward when the riving knife is mounted.

However, the plunge saw is trickier to work with because you can press down the saw without starting it. If the blade teeth are on the surface and you start it... the kickback comes like a letter in the mail, which the son-in-law experienced when he was about to cut a sheet with mine and didn't understand that you release the lock, start the saw, and then lower it. That time it resulted in just a scratch on the rail.

And it's just as bad to be too far back and stretch too far forward and lift the saw at the front when reaching the end. Then the blade isn't protected. It's easy to tip with the saw and the blade hits the rail before it stops, and then you also get the kickback when you're off balance.

And you also won't need to drill new holes in the rail. However, you should change the screw to FH without a washer.
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Byggaren

I completely agree with you regarding the risks.

However, you can actually, if you are careful, saw "backward" with both old and new Festool plunge saws. See here for details: http://www.bvc024.com/images/items/fes/bsk/0017.pdf I'm not sure if there's a limit to how deep you can cut with this method, but I'll test it someday.

The idea of a domed head and washer is simply to protect the rail. FH without a washer can damage the edge of the hole, which I wouldn't have liked if I had lent out my rail, for example. But it's probably just me being picky... But can you get an FH low enough that you can run the saw over it? Otherwise, it's probably easier to just use a "too long rail" and cut as far as you need to.

 

[imported_Byggaren]

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Otherwise, it's probably easier to just use an "extra long rail" and run as far as you need to, simply put.

It can sometimes be a bit difficult to fit an 'extra long rail' if, for example, the window is positioned as it should be. Then you have a maximum of 30 cm up to the eaves on a house with an interior floor height of 2.40 in most cases.

Rails are, by the way, a consumable. If it becomes crooked, nothing will be straight. And it can become crooked because you don't take the time to lay it flat. If then some clumsy person steps on it, it's over. Or if it has been set aside and slips and ends up a floor lower. The ways are many. Also to get kickback. My 1.40-s rail is ready to be replaced. I'll cut down the usable part to a shorter one. My 3.0-s will probably last for the rest of my life
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Byggaren

 

[Jan-L]

They have a plunge saw at the rental house for 180kr for a day... then the question is whether it's worth it when you've never used one before. Also, it is important that it is not heavy and cumbersome as I will be standing on a ladder while using it.

Hmm... my old B&D jigsaw might have to do

You've already received many good tips on the choice of machines, so it feels a bit unnecessary to write more about that.
However, I want to give you some advice... ladders should be used to get to and from the workplace, not worked from. Try to borrow an aluminum scaffold or rent one, much safer to work from.
I once had my circular saw jam on a ladder, and it doesn't help to "be prepared," the risk of seriously injuring yourself is huge if that happens... now the circle went to the ground and I held on, but well...

 

[dreamie]

Thanks for the advice, I will try to get hold of a stand. But if I use a jigsaw, it should be a bit safer.

Regards,

d