Building Materials and Construction Technology
snuttjulle: Possibly, it is used for the chimney sweep to be able to make their way up onto the roof, and then there must be an alternative way up.
blackadder: excuse me, I'm a bit influenced by my job working with railings and similar in stainless steel. I got the impression that you were going to have something manufactured. check the boat side, there can be many nice things there.
bygga_bo: http://www.theofils.se/ has quite a few such fittings. Check under "Inredningsbeslag" on their page. I don't know if they have exactly what you're looking for (no underskena), but they have several options for glass doors at least.
rascalsrule: Currently renovating a basement and planning to enlarge a window and a door in an exterior wall made of lightweight concrete (it's a single-story house on a slope with a basement). There is currently a window that is 60x60 right at the ceiling height. I want to lower it a bit and install a larger window (B140, h100), and for that, I probably need to reinforce for the inter-floor structure. With
AndersS: Well, if you have vertical paneling it might be two lengths, depending on the height, where you'll get an overlap under a horizontal batten. I used it in the summer cabin and it was no problem. You can possibly adjust the battens based on height and overlap since they don't need to maintain an exact CC measurement as you don't have insulation to consider.
norrbottenstorpet: If the chimney is plastered "livande" it would look nice with a molding with good liv as well. Profile draw and cut/hand axe out in a rough or horizontal molding, preferably hand-planed.
Joukko: What type of gravel should I have under the playhouse? Jocke
Fasting65: There are instructions on how to lay slate - and it might be the same with limestone... Moisten the surface. Then mix soil-moist mortar in the proportions of 1 part cement, 3 parts 0-4 sand. Spread the mortar, and then apply some strings of cement slurry to make the surface more moist. Lay the stones and tamp them with a rubber mallet. See:
ygg: [citat] If you compare, for example, Gunnebo's characteristics on anchor screws and nails, the withdrawal force needed for a screw is generally higher than for a nail - which seems logical. The shear force, however, seems quite similar. Do you mean it should make a significant difference if you use screws or nails for that reason? Now the screw is only available in 5mm, while the nail is
norrbottenstorpet: I have built a lightweight concrete wall with multiplattan. Now it's about to be plastered. I'm a novice in this area. I want to choose a plaster that is easy to work with and can be applied thinly. I don't want to have several centimeter-thick layers of plaster. I have heard that there are gypsum-based plasters for this purpose, but that they are naturally more fragile than cement-based ones.
norrbottenstorpet: Just take it easy and carefully, and let the saw cool down occasionally, watering gently. The saw will feel a bit better as well. It takes quite a lot for the actual "wooden planks" to catch fire, but if you have sawdust in the joists, it's a bit (much) more sensitive.
freddeh: have spoken with a construction expert. his initial thought was that it was not load-bearing, partly because it only went through half the house and the chimney stack was in the middle, which he indicated as a sign that it is not load-bearing. however, he will come by to check properly, to be continued... F
halldings: Yes, it could probably be like that. If it is connected to another building, it should probably be. And then it depends on whether there is any stove or vedpanna there. If it is connected to another building, there should be a fire door to it but a regular one out. Call your insurance company, and you will know for sure.
MathiasS: I have bought my facade timber and a whole lot of other timber from Lissma såg (now BeijerBygg in Lissma/Skogås). I have always perceived the timber from there as very high quality. I know that prior to the Beijer integration, there was an intention to retain their traditional purchasing channels for timber, but I don't know if they are still committed to this.
Gladh: No one has sat on our cabinets yet (knock on wood) so they have remained undamaged. But if there is a risk of someone sitting on them (and you don't want supportive legs), the following solution might work. You attach the beam under the cabinet as usual; additionally, you have angle brackets in the cabinets attached to the wall beams with lag screws. At the outer edges of the cabinets, you fasten
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Even a subframe functions as a drawbar in a roof truss. I am basing this on the general terms for the parts of a roof truss: rafter, collar beam, and subframe. A standalone drawbar is typically made of round iron with a washer and nut on the outside of the wall in older buildings. ____________________ Byggaren
Sommartorparn: [citat] I wasn't planning on it, since it's an old house and I'm trying to avoid modern solutions on the exterior. Actually, there were metal sheets on the water boards I removed, so it's possible I'll give in and put them back. BUT what do I do with the water boards that have already warped and are pointing up towards the sky? Can they be forced down or do they need to be replaced?
Gonate: Okay, thought someone might already know but thanks.. Yes, the skiva seems at least very workable and easy to make impressive innbygnader
Chinaski: I have used the following aluminum mesh at the eaves of the house: http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=4514&Grp=&n=10&KundeID= Available in both 60 and 90 centimeters width.
FredrikR: I have ordered roof trusses for my garage now, these have a span of 7180mm. The lower chord will consist of double 45x220, the 'reinforcement' will be nailed in place. They are joined with nail plates. Will be placed at c/c60. Loft/guest room/storage (whatever it will become when the garage is finished) will be on the upper floor. It will work according to the manufacturer.
bosej: I was just thinking of putting wind barrier on the old plaster, then screw battens 45 x 20. After that, panel with cover strips. No additional insulation. I saw a picture somewhere on this forum where they did that.
Bror: I have a wine storage (I call the storage a wine cellar) with quite similar dimensions to yours. The outer walls are made of Dorothermblock which I have covered with wood paneling. In the summer, it gets a little too warm in the room, about 16-17 degrees. The biggest culprit there is probably the door that needs insulation and sealing. That will be addressed by winter. If that's not enough, a
Kurtivan: Or slide on a pipe with the same inner diameter as the outer diameter of what needs to be cut. Secure with a few spot welds.
anaitis: [citat] Fill it again! If the old stuff lasted 40 years, you shouldn't expect anything different again. Especially as there likely won't be any more cracks. If you want drywall, you can glue the sheets with plaster mortar. Lay thicker lines where you've knocked down the filler.
Bloink: Started painting this morning, and immediately it looked worse. The texture was good in the actual patch but the texture had "filled in" around the edges when I used a trowel to even it out. Mixed some plaster into the ceiling paint and built up a similar texture with a brush over the entire area. Looks good for now, but we'll see after another layer of ceiling paint.
danieldanieldaniel: it's advanced, if the first board hadn't been there you would just have glued and screwed the boards to the beams. Use regular wood glue.