I use Wirsbo because you can buy it at good prices online + their support is excellent.trimsten said:
I haven't used regulation for 6 years and it works perfectly fine anyway. The only regulation is on the heat pump. If you ask me, thermostats and control devices are a waste of money. In some cases, you certainly need them, but often you can manage without.
Same here, I have no regulation. Though my system isn't fully built yet, so I'm not sure how it will be later. Since I have a bathroom and the rest "ordinary" rooms on the manifold, all in the basement, I suspect that I might later need to control the loops differently. Right now, I am controlling the room temperature with the supply temperature.MathiasS said:
If you want to be sure, you can install some empty vp-pipes in the beam and to the places where you may potentially install room thermostats, then you can just wire them later if needed. The hard-wired thermostats are much cheaper and (I think) should be more reliable.
In my opinion, Buildmax's parquet flooring is excellent and also very affordable, I'm just wondering about the vapor barrier. I don't know if you should use a vapor barrier or not with their flooring, and since you already have construction plastic at the bottom of your beam, I assume it's not optimal to put a layer directly under the floor as well. More than one layer of plastic with wood and insulation in between is never ideal... So you probably lay your parquet without a vapor barrier underneath, which makes it very important that there's no moisture in the spacing or beam. I know your material has been stored dry outside, but it's good to keep in mind. If you have any doubts, check with a moisture meter; it could be worth it. I believe that floorboards should maintain a maximum of 6% with underfloor heating, so I assume that also applies to the other materials, ask someone who knows for sure...
Another tip is to use clickguard, a sealing agent that makes the joints on the parquet floor waterproof. I know it's rarely used for parquet, but perhaps the floor becomes more sensitive to moisture with underfloor heating? If you want to go around thoroughly with a mop or maybe spill something, it might be good? It's not particularly difficult to apply during installation, and they have it at Buildmax so it's perhaps something to consider...
For my part, I will choose control®ulation and then the wired version. I can see a certain need. Partly for the bathroom and then different sun exposures for the various parts of the upper floor.Jan-L said:
I found a company called varmtgolv.se, which seemed to have a better price than rinkabyrör. The only thing that didn't seem good there was the plates, if I understood correctly, they only had a width of 180 mm, whereas the others I saw had 275 mm and both had comparable prices and the same length. But I guess it's just a matter of buying most from one manufacturer and the rest from the other.
Always good with tips, the kind that keep you from "reinventing the wheel."
A floor heating company advised me to install the underfloor heating at the same time as the joists. This was to ensure everything would have the right spacing from the start. This felt like a tricky tip since I had thought to lay the joists first so that there would be something solid to walk on and then start putting up the walls. After this, I had planned to install the underfloor heating.
As stated, if anyone has any opinions, I have built quite a lot before, but this is my first major project.
I suggest you try without regulation first. If it doesn't work, you can always adjust afterwards.
It's hard to understand why you get the correct spacing on the glesen if you lay the hose at the same time. Use spacers as inserts for perfection. 30mm for 20-slang.
The 180mm plates are reasonably made for 17mm hoses. The 275mm plate is intended for 20mm hoses. You must of course have plates that fit the hoses.
It's hard to understand why you get the correct spacing on the glesen if you lay the hose at the same time. Use spacers as inserts for perfection. 30mm for 20-slang.
The 180mm plates are reasonably made for 17mm hoses. The 275mm plate is intended for 20mm hoses. You must of course have plates that fit the hoses.
I thought just like you, Mathias, that those plates are for 17-slang.............but it actually says they are for 20-slang, strange. I should have gotten 275 plates...........MathiasS said:
The thing about laying the underfloor heating together with the glesen......I can't understand what's convenient about that.
Possibly that you can turn the hoses under the glesen and then have all gles nailed down at once. But then you have to keep track of the positions of the upcoming walls all the time. Otherwise, you usually leave the glesen un-nailed at the wall to be able to thread the hose under the glesen, turn, continue laying the hose in the other direction, and then nail the ends when everything is done. But if you want to finish the heating at the same time, you have a lot of different materials to handle, gles, plates, hoses, it sounds like it could get messy.
I would have laid out plywood to walk on and then dealt with the floor joists where the walls will stand before I had glesed the floor. I think it might be an advantage to have the wall placements clear, easier to see where to turn with loops and so on. After that, plan for the supply and return lines to the loops. Then you can glesa, leave the ends un-nailed, and continue with the walls. Then you don't have to step around on plates and hoses so much, because you can handle that later.
I saw you're going to have a bathroom too, how are you going to construct the floor there? Just had to ask, curious as I am.......
If you're going to have parquet there too, you should absolutely use clickguard.............(Now I'm trying to joke a bit, just saying so no one misunderstands) Greetings Janne.
As said, as you Janne seem to have already checked, the price list from varmtgolv.se for the plates looked like this:Jan-L said:I thought just like you Mathias, that those plates are for 17-pipe.............but it actually says they are for 20-pipe, strange. I would have gotten 275-plates...........
........I saw that you will have a bathroom too, how are you going to construct the floor there? I have to ask, curious as I am.......
Are you going to have parquet there too, then you should definitely use clickguard.............(I'm just trying to joke a bit here, mentioning it so no one misunderstands) Regards Janne.
110116 Enkelplåt 16 mm 1150x180 mm 1 pc 25,00 31,25
110120 Enkelplåt 20 mm 1150x180 mm 1 pc 39,00 48,75
It must be a printing error, I will email and ask. Because 180 matches much better with cc200 as you say.
I completely agree that it must become very troublesome to do everything at the same time. Additionally, as Mathias says, it's just to use a shim piece.
Yeah, I had thought of laying the battens first and then building the walls. Why do it the other way around?
The bathroom is still a black hole in the planning, except that I know there are drains and water pipes nearby that can be easily connected. There, I might take the help of a professional to splice into the water pipes. Approved connections are required if it is to be hidden in the floor.
I will probably lay some kind of plastic flooring in the bathroom; I know someone knowledgeable in that area who can help me with that part. Moreover, I have planned to have a shower cabin instead of an open shower.
I'm not quite sure what materials go under the mat, but maybe one of you knows.
In principle, none of what has been said in this thread is relevant in a bathroom. Start a new thread for this instead.... If you're going to have a bathroom in the area discussed in the thread, you can completely forget about your own construction.
No, that was exactly what I had in mind.MathiasS said:
Just as a side note, my final construction became parquet and glespannel, which is one of the proposals by uponor among others.
However, not for bathrooms, but as I said, I’m holding off on the bathroom part. I'll get to it when it becomes more relevant. I'll let it be a "black box" for now.
I would guess that there are probably first a few threads to read before I need to create my own.
When I have installed underfloor heating in a wooden joist framework, I have spaced out within the joists, cut the spacing where it needs to turn, made a 20 mm notch in the floor joist, and laid it further in the next bay. Once the chipboard is placed, it has the necessary strength, so it doesn't matter that the spacing is cut near the walls.
In your case, it is important that the spacing is unbroken all the way from wall to wall; I would also be careful to spread any joints. So you need to loop the pipe under the spacing at the walls so that the parquet floor is supported by the spacing there as well. If you space everything first, you will later need to cut the spacing where you have installed the walls to loop the pipes under the spacing. This means you have to consider where the walls will be placed so that you can provide a steady support for the spacing where you need to cut it. Adding extra supports afterward can be tricky too. Threading perhaps 50 meters of pipes under the spacing 8-10 times when laying the heating is not ideal. I hope you understand what I mean.
In your case, it is important that the spacing is unbroken all the way from wall to wall; I would also be careful to spread any joints. So you need to loop the pipe under the spacing at the walls so that the parquet floor is supported by the spacing there as well. If you space everything first, you will later need to cut the spacing where you have installed the walls to loop the pipes under the spacing. This means you have to consider where the walls will be placed so that you can provide a steady support for the spacing where you need to cut it. Adding extra supports afterward can be tricky too. Threading perhaps 50 meters of pipes under the spacing 8-10 times when laying the heating is not ideal. I hope you understand what I mean.
I understand exactly what you mean, and just because you don't lay the underfloor heating at the same time, you have to plan for it when laying the spacing.Jan-L said:
The upper floor itself was first sketched by me and then drawn by the architectural firm, I was surprised at how well I managed the sketch, with only small changes compared to my original proposal.
In other words, I have a good floor plan to measure from.
Just like you say, it's easier to fix extra support when the spacing hasn't been fixed in place.
Shifting the joints is obviously important, otherwise, you miss some of the structural integrity, but then again, how could you know I was aware of that?
As mentioned, it’s always good to have one's constructions and choice of method scrutinized, it helps avoid unnecessary mistakes.
Or as someone said in a thread about electricity, "The problem isn't what you know, but what you don't know."
By the way, when it comes to reinforcement for walls and joint spacing, I assume you joist and lay a support, as extra support under the spacing, right?
You wouldn’t believe how many general joints we have to build into brand new houses; that's how they're designed, and we have to follow the plans, but it doesn't feel great..........trimsten said:
Yes, exactly, your interior walls presumably don't have a load-bearing function, so blocking of 45x170 on 600 centers should be more than sufficient under the walls. It probably works with 145 or 120 as well, but then you might need to use framing angles to anchor them firmly enough, and then you quickly end up at the same cost as 170 and a number of toenails..........trimsten said:
You of course splice the spars in the middle of a floor joist.
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No, the load-bearing part is already taken care of, I left that to the professionals. One must recognize their limitations. In other words, it's just regular simple inner walls.Jan-L said:
It seems like I'm on the right track; there shouldn't be any problem adding extra support for the walls.
Incidentally, I had to return the chipboard today, there were no problems at all. The only issue was getting them down from the attic, but luckily I had help from a loader.
Additionally, I discovered they delivered the wrong boards; it should have been 12 mm, but it was 10 mm. However, this doesn't matter now.