Building Materials and Construction Technology
enasnilla: The blue tone can vary quite a lot on blue lightweight concrete. It could also be concrete.
Apprentice: Background: I'm planning to put up drywall for tiling and will have a painted wall above it. At the transition, I want to install a stylish oak trim. Question: Does anyone know how to find a suitable trim in the dimensions of 18x18 or 18x20mm? Preferably it should be in oak, but pine could also work. I don't need large quantities, so special orders seem doubtful. Consideration: Another option is
AndersS: Agree on Nail-in in the floor and you fix it with a regular drill machine.
Faidros: http://www.moelventoreboda.se/index.asp?menuItem=L10
JanneL: Oops! Was too quick, have been on the forum not too long ago! Sorry!
v-g: I put up a beveled mirror myself (IKEA 200 bucks) with double-sided tape of various kinds (just to be safe ;) ). It sits well and looks good.
psklelbe: Hello! I know nothing about building houses, but I have ordered a turnkey house that is to be built this winter. Now to my question: - What are the risks of building during the winter? - Pros and cons of winter construction? - What should one consider? Grateful for answers as I am completely ignorant and can only rely on our house supplier./Elisabeth
Havsutsikt: Works well with two layers of oil paint, the problem with too thin factory primer/protective primer arises when choosing acrylic paint, then there is too little oil primer underneath. If you're wealthy or have extra paint, you can prime with oil paint diluted with mineral spirits directly, but it's thick and expensive. If you're worried that you have too little paint on the wall, paint again; I
gullegrizen: If you imagine the wall in several parts, and then apply the above to each part individually, there are no problems. I.e. "Part 1" - Beginning of wall --> Beginning of window 1 "Part 2" - Above and below window 1 "Part 3" - End of window 1 --> beginning of window 2 etc.
Leica: I am going to help a friend with his laundry room, the house is a split-level house from the early seventies. The wall that I am a bit unsure about how to handle is insulated on the inside and it has plastic between the chipboard and the insulation, I am attaching a sketch so it is a bit easier to understand what I mean. Should we remove all the insulation and plastic or is it possible to screw
Nyckelmossen: Reviving an old thread :) Facing the task of installing panels on a ceiling with roof trusses mounted at 1200 cc. There will only be 175mm insulation (due to low ceiling height), can it work with 12 mm thick panels, or will they bulge outward? Anyone with experience?
ktm250: If you want to lay aerated concrete with a C mortar, replace 224 with 131. For aerated concrete, low-alkali products are used, and it is not 224. However, laying aerated concrete is not common. They are usually glued with Tunnfogsbruk A.
Alpha: Thinking a lot right now about how and what I should use to straighten the log wall, it differs about 3-4 cm at the top compared to floor level. I can't frame up with 45 studs + boards due to space reasons, however, I'm considering using a 25 x 70 slat that I attach vertically and then either plywood + renovation gypsum or thicker MDF or chipboard. Since I don't know exactly at what height the
John J: [citat] Thanks for the answers, I'll probably use the same mixture as usual part 100% wood tar. It must be mixable with turpentine or thinner. 1 part linseed oil, COLD-PRESSED important!! 1 part turpentine or thinner http://www.skansen.se/pages/?ID=790
addee: I have a brick house (1964) where the exterior walls consist of a brick facade + light concrete (inside). Now, Permafoil wants us to moisture-proof the walls on the inside before putting up wallpaper. It's ground level so no basement to consider. One wall also has a balcony and overhangs on the roof that protect from direct moisture, so I'm not too worried about that. What do we think about that?
JanneSjo: I bought a cheap "Kellen" miter saw in the evening at COOP - and there was a big difference - so it's worth 995kr. I guess it won't last very long - but I'm not going to cut that much, so it's good enough for me. Much easier to get straight cuts...
Lmob: I checked quickly, a Samsung DVD was about 1000 SEK cheaper in Poland... but how is it with service etc...
v-g: To attach the plywood, you can use two 45x45 at the top and bottom between the studs. I myself used 45x90 standing behind the mixer for the shower. Drilling those two holes was the least of the problems with that bathroom, to say the least ;) I also milled grooves in a standing 45x90 and that was no problem. A few strokes with the handsaw and a few taps with the chisel and you have your groove. I
klingstrom: Put floorboards on the walls, we are currently installing them on the walls in the hallway, 18 cm wide and minimal risk of warping.
JanneL: I think it may be sensible to ventilate at regular intervals if possible.
Simpsson: It became plaster... and they seem to hold firmly.
HiScore: Almost ridiculous that I didn't think of widening the crack a bit... Turned out great and it wasn't even that much work. Thanks for the help! /Per
_bystrom_: if you are going to glue, you don't need anything narrower than the top of the tube, right? with a new/full bottle, the top is full when the bottle is lying vertically... press it in and quickly insert the screw.
snickarboden: Perhaps protect poor plaster? If there are cracks or holes in the plaster, it's easier to put up a wind barrier than to replaster it. I see the wind barrier as a plus there. /Kent
Fredrik.engdahl: Hornbach has a model that costs about 800 :- and it works well.
yjs: So these weak studs can support the load-bearing capacity needed. Suggestion for action if I remove studs to open up the wall. The wall is 3.05 m and I will open up 2.10 m of it. Jens
estwing: take 2 French 40 mm screws and screw them into the bottom as spacers, with these you can also adjust the height with. Best regards, snickar estwing
TRMaster: [citat] Hi. I'm in a similar situation. Currently building a landing staircase. 38 degree angle In my case, I have quite a lot to consider (the basement staircase underneath, the roof trusses that support the dormer on one side are right in the middle of the landing, 3300mm floor to floor, limited space, etc.) 1: I've acquired laminated wood in 56*270mm for the stringers (standard dimension) 2: