Our stove is mounted on a "stamp" of slate tiles. The floor structure is made of wooden joists over a pier foundation. There is about 15 cm between the back of the stove and the wall. Now I intend to draw a ventilation duct from the pier foundation. Drilling through the tile surface feels not entirely uncomplicated. What method do you suggest?
- Is there a suitable 105mm hole saw that can handle the task? (water cooling is excluded)
- Is it better to drill several small holes in a circle? What kind of drill should I use then?
/David
- Is there a suitable 105mm hole saw that can handle the task? (water cooling is excluded)
- Is it better to drill several small holes in a circle? What kind of drill should I use then?
/David
You should be able to rent/borrow a (diamond) hole saw/cone in the appropriate size where you buy tiles.
You don't need to flush excessively with water, it's enough if it's a little wet (spray bottle) and drill with a screwdriver at low speed so you don't burn out the diamond cone.
That's how I did it when I needed to make holes in granite tiles.
You don't need to flush excessively with water, it's enough if it's a little wet (spray bottle) and drill with a screwdriver at low speed so you don't burn out the diamond cone.
That's how I did it when I needed to make holes in granite tiles.
Glad you asked. We just drilled five holes through slate tiles and tried several variants - such as cheap diamond hole saws and concrete hole saws from Jula. It worked so-so...
In the end, I managed to get this kind of hole saw:
http://katalog.toolstore.se/webspee...at_bid=V15&dokid=5199611&katnr=2&katsektnr=61
It worked great. Sure, the saw broke after four holes, (2-4 cm thick slate tiles), but fortunately, it was when the hole saw went through the last hole that the carbide tip broke off from the hole saw.
The holder for the hole saw can be bought at Biltema - same same, but much cheaper!
A tip: Use it without a center drill. Instead, make a hole in a plank (diameter 105 mm) and use it as a guide for the hole saw. Alternatively, first drill with a hammer drill (WITHOUT THE HAMMER!) in the same dimension as the center drill for the hole saw.
Slate is quite soft (relative to other stone materials).
Note! Use LOW speeds. We used a special low-geared drill. If you use a regular drill at low speeds, I recommend checking to make sure the machine doesn't burn out. They seldom like the combination of low speed and high load over a long time.
In the end, I managed to get this kind of hole saw:
http://katalog.toolstore.se/webspee...at_bid=V15&dokid=5199611&katnr=2&katsektnr=61
It worked great. Sure, the saw broke after four holes, (2-4 cm thick slate tiles), but fortunately, it was when the hole saw went through the last hole that the carbide tip broke off from the hole saw.
The holder for the hole saw can be bought at Biltema - same same, but much cheaper!
A tip: Use it without a center drill. Instead, make a hole in a plank (diameter 105 mm) and use it as a guide for the hole saw. Alternatively, first drill with a hammer drill (WITHOUT THE HAMMER!) in the same dimension as the center drill for the hole saw.
Slate is quite soft (relative to other stone materials).
Note! Use LOW speeds. We used a special low-geared drill. If you use a regular drill at low speeds, I recommend checking to make sure the machine doesn't burn out. They seldom like the combination of low speed and high load over a long time.
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