Hello,
I'm trying to get a 10x20 cm plank 1 cm thick with a 45° angle along the sides. But the hand router doesn't make it straight because I do it a bit clumsily. Does anyone have an idea on how I can make a stable, straight routing of the sides?
I'm trying to get a 10x20 cm plank 1 cm thick with a 45° angle along the sides. But the hand router doesn't make it straight because I do it a bit clumsily. Does anyone have an idea on how I can make a stable, straight routing of the sides?
Explain a bit more. Should the entire edge be at 45 degrees, or do you just want to bevel a part of it?
Do you have no guide to follow, i.e., you're working completely freehand?
A guide made from an equally long board that you run against should work, but even the ones usually available for routers would give a straight edge. If the whole edge is supposed to be 45 degrees, you need a guide; if it's just part of the edge, a router with a bearing that follows the side will suffice.
Do you have no guide to follow, i.e., you're working completely freehand?
A guide made from an equally long board that you run against should work, but even the ones usually available for routers would give a straight edge. If the whole edge is supposed to be 45 degrees, you need a guide; if it's just part of the edge, a router with a bearing that follows the side will suffice.
If you need to rout the entire edge at 45 degrees, you can attach a straight scrap piece parallel to the edge of the subject (your board) with some clamps and let the router bit's ball bearing follow the scrap piece instead. By letting the ball bearing follow the scrap piece, the bit cuts into the entire board.AndersS said:
There are three ways to do it:
1. Let the ball bearing on the 45-degree milling cutter follow the straight edge and run the router away from you on the right side of the board and towards you on the left side. Otherwise, knots in the wood will throw the milling cutter off course, and it won't be straight. (Worst method.)
2. Use a stop, mounted on the router, together with a ball bearing 45-degree milling cutter. (Immediately a bit better straightness, but a steady hand at the end is a must when the stop is beyond the board end in the front part.)
3. Use a Festool router with a guide rail (or another brand with a guide rail). Then you are not dependent on whether the edge is straight or not. The router runs along a groove in the guide rail. (Absolute best method.)
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Byggaren
1. Let the ball bearing on the 45-degree milling cutter follow the straight edge and run the router away from you on the right side of the board and towards you on the left side. Otherwise, knots in the wood will throw the milling cutter off course, and it won't be straight. (Worst method.)
2. Use a stop, mounted on the router, together with a ball bearing 45-degree milling cutter. (Immediately a bit better straightness, but a steady hand at the end is a must when the stop is beyond the board end in the front part.)
3. Use a Festool router with a guide rail (or another brand with a guide rail). Then you are not dependent on whether the edge is straight or not. The router runs along a groove in the guide rail. (Absolute best method.)
_______________________
Byggaren
Thanks everyone for the replies, I've returned to the workshop and will try a guide rail over the weekend 
