Building Materials and Construction Technology
BobbyEwing: We have that system with render on our entire house and it feels good and solid. I can't say much about how it works long-term since we have only lived in the house since this spring, but I can't see any reason for problems with that facade construction; rather, it should be a very future-proof (but expensive) facade. Regarding fastenings, it is a bit problematic. I've simply filled all the holes
Danne031: Assuming you mean that the wall looks like: stud-chipboard-drywall? In that case, it's fine to screw into just drywall+chipboard.
petersson79: When we are going to expand now, they will use 45*145+45*45 for the walls and 45*220 for the roof trusses. And as he says above, the framing lumber is almost a negligible part of the cost, yes...
johan713s: Go to a mechanical workshop, and ask them to bend the profiles of sheet metal, if you are not going for a too thick gauge. Then you can choose the material, even stainless steel.
wedge73: yes... and a question about fifteen sheets- or thirty- with the accompanying number of seams... in case you decide to fill and paint sometime.
martin1g: yes, maybe you can do that.. it should hold if you use a strong glue..
Strixx: Does anyone have any knowledge about whether one can assume that the weight is distributed over 2.5 square meters by placing beams on top of the floor structure???
awasberg: ok and thanks for the help got approval on the layout from the construction committee over the phone today Anders
Bror: If it is a basement wall, I understand ppalms's point of view, but not otherwise. An adhesive that "grabs" might be preferable like Casco Superfix.
79:an: Thank you, I think I might need it, stinginess deceives wisdom and I'm trying myself....
stefan57: Hello, I have bought 30 sqm of larch wood for my deck floor that will be done this summer. My question is whether it should be treated and maintained, and if so, with what and how? Regards, Stefan
anniesen: We have screwed together two wardrobes and attached them to the wall without a stud. The baseboards extend outside and we have wainscoting against it. We wallpapered directly onto the wall.
haynes: I will insulate the slab with foam. Does anyone know the mixing ratio of sand to water and cement? I would also like to know how much concrete I need? What should one buy? Should one buy concrete and add water or buy cement and add gravel, stone, and water oneself? It's about 1 m3 I need, is that 1000 liters or?
axelman: Hello We had a brick wall that had been painted with some acrylic paint. I removed the paint by scraping with a knife. Then I "slammed" the wall with KC-BRUK. Afterwards, I "painted" the wall with HYDRAULIT-FÄRG from Målarkalk in Hyllinge. http://www.malarkalk.se/ It turned out well. They surely know the answer. Best regards Axelman
Bergenhage: Hello! I'm heading down to Krakow for a weekend and thought I might also try to squeeze in some "sightseeing" at a few hardware stores. I would be very grateful if anyone on the forum could recommend which hardware stores are good, preferably reasonably close to the city center. The idea is to get an idea of prices and especially see if it's worth a trip down there in the summer (probably to
aivo: Another option is to replace the threshold with a bathroom threshold or a completely flat threshold. It probably costs around a hundred at the hardware store and takes 10 minutes. Plus, the result is guaranteed to be good.
Ahlbom: Hi, how did it go with the "plattan," how did you resolve it in the end?
evoline: Now I have started the framing. It goes really fast if you measure and pre-drill the wooden studs beforehand, you save time by not having to hold up the studs for a few extra seconds. Also, 8x80 spike plug was better because there wasn't concrete all the way up to the ceiling for me, but it was an air gap or so after about 5cm. But I used 8x100 when it was concrete all the way up. Used a hammer
tanaris: I usually repair holes in drywall in two ways, regardless of size: 1) Saw out a square piece of new drywall. Bevel the edges at 45 degrees. Place the new piece of drywall over the hole and trace the outlines. Saw out around the hole corresponding to the piece of drywall, but make sure the edges are approximately 45 degrees. Fit it so that it sits slightly deeper than the rest of the wall, then
P.R: Smeared up a double-barreled 7.5 m SEM chimney just over 2 years ago. The price wasn't "market-relevant" since I got it through contacts. Maybe I paid around 12000:- for it. My question is otherwise: what do you need a double-barreled chimney for? Furthermore: You can save money by starting with Leca blocks and building connections etc. in brick before proceeding with a modular system.
anaitis: The Young's modulus describes how a material reacts when subjected to stress. How much it lengthens or compresses under a given stress. Simply put, a low Young's modulus results in a yielding material. The moment of inertia is used to understand how the geometric cross-section of a load-bearing element affects its deflection and stress. The product of these two parameters gives the stiffness of
Mats: yes or better yet a rotary hammer. It's also possible to rent one cheaply if you don't want to acquire one and yes a rotary hammer works so much better that it's worth it
MathiasS: It's possible to glue plaster to siporex, but it's not fun on walls and probably really hard in the ceiling. The best option is likely to let a painter spend a few hours plastering the ceiling and then painting it to get a smooth white ceiling.
hanniss: I am going to custom order a bench top that I will use as a desk for our new office. The wall is not straight. The dimensions will be about 2000 mm x 700 mm wide x 30 mm deep. Does anyone know where I can custom order this in Linköping? It's hard to find these dimensions in the usual stores like k-rauta, rusta, and wik-wall. Alternatively, I could custom order from one of them. But where is it
petersk: Time to do something about the garage floor. (workshop). The surface today is quite rough, with a grainy texture sloping towards the drain placed in the middle. I want a smooth floor and plan to remove the drain. The entire floor needs to be leveled, but especially around the drain. I have looked into self-leveling compound and found Ardex K301, which doesn't require surface treatment. Does