Hello!
I was about to install a ceiling fixture in the basement ceiling and felt a significant draft between the electrical box and the ceiling. It's a cold draft, simply put. The fit isn't exactly 100% between the box and the drywall, so I slipped a thermometer up to read the temperature. It was 18 degrees in the basement room but only 9 degrees (!!!) between the actual ceiling in the basement. The basement ceiling is made of drywall and the space to the truss bottom (the ceiling drop) is maybe 5-8 cm depending on where you measure.
My thought was that some of the heat in the basement should keep the ceiling (i.e., the floor of the upper floor) warm. Now it's like a cold barrier or whatever you might call it. If you describe it from the bottom up: first 18 degrees in the room, then 9 in the ceiling, and then the actual floor and 20 degrees in the room above.
What should one do? Tear down the ceiling and insulate this small space? Or is it "normal" to have such large temperature differences between the room and the ceiling? I find it very strange.
Appreciative of your opinions.
/Erik
I was about to install a ceiling fixture in the basement ceiling and felt a significant draft between the electrical box and the ceiling. It's a cold draft, simply put. The fit isn't exactly 100% between the box and the drywall, so I slipped a thermometer up to read the temperature. It was 18 degrees in the basement room but only 9 degrees (!!!) between the actual ceiling in the basement. The basement ceiling is made of drywall and the space to the truss bottom (the ceiling drop) is maybe 5-8 cm depending on where you measure.
My thought was that some of the heat in the basement should keep the ceiling (i.e., the floor of the upper floor) warm. Now it's like a cold barrier or whatever you might call it. If you describe it from the bottom up: first 18 degrees in the room, then 9 in the ceiling, and then the actual floor and 20 degrees in the room above.
What should one do? Tear down the ceiling and insulate this small space? Or is it "normal" to have such large temperature differences between the room and the ceiling? I find it very strange.
Appreciative of your opinions.
/Erik
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The reason could very well be that it's "drafty" near the exterior walls, and this cold air can travel freely between the floor joists and the drywall. To solve the problem, you need to insulate around the exterior wall to prevent the cold air from blowing in.
Similar problems occur in old houses where the floor insulation has settled, creating a gap between the insulation and the inner floor. Then the cold air blows directly under the floors, making them cold, regardless of how much insulation you have underneath.
Similar problems occur in old houses where the floor insulation has settled, creating a gap between the insulation and the inner floor. Then the cold air blows directly under the floors, making them cold, regardless of how much insulation you have underneath.
I agree with the previous writer. If the problem gets worse when it's windy outside, that is definitely the cause.
Also watch out for uninsulated attic spaces. Cold air can be pushed down into walls and ceilings. Our house became significantly warmer when we removed the attic spaces and renovated the entire attic.
Also watch out for uninsulated attic spaces. Cold air can be pushed down into walls and ceilings. Our house became significantly warmer when we removed the attic spaces and renovated the entire attic.
Well.....sigh!! I will have to take down the ceiling and insulate. I suspected as much. I just wanted to confirm it for myself. The analysis is probably spot on, with the cold coming in from the outer wall. And just as Larsa writes, much of the insulation is probably compressed. When I tore up the bathroom floor, you could see that whoever built the house in the late 60s trampled around in the insulation a lot and then just put on the rough wooden floor. There were loads of fine footprints. There is an advantage to having a weak underfloor, which is precisely to prevent idiotic "craftsmen" from stomping around after insulation. With the reasoning "what isn't seen...." etc. My goodness, what a dumping ground it must have been. I've found tons of debris, planks, long splinters, wood chips that make it extremely difficult to remove the old insulation and get it into black plastic bags.
I am also afraid that I have to insulate the floor to some extent as well......from underneath!! Precisely because of compressed insulation. Remove parts of the underfloor. In that case, it's an advantage to have a sturdy, loose underfloor so you can lift away plank by plank and push up insulation. Not the most enjoyable task, but just roll up your sleeves......
However, I will only put a "cheaper" quality of insulation between the floors. ByggMax's lambda 40 insulation will suffice. The rooms are already heated.
Thanks for the responses so far. This is truly an awesome forum.
/Erber
I will have to take down the ceiling and insulate. I suspected as much. I just wanted to confirm it for myself. The analysis is probably spot on, with the cold coming in from the outer wall. And just as Larsa writes, much of the insulation is probably compressed. When I tore up the bathroom floor, you could see that whoever built the house in the late 60s trampled around in the insulation a lot and then just put on the rough wooden floor. There were loads of fine footprints. There is an advantage to having a weak underfloor, which is precisely to prevent idiotic "craftsmen" from stomping around after insulation. With the reasoning "what isn't seen...." etc. My goodness, what a dumping ground it must have been. I've found tons of debris, planks, long splinters, wood chips that make it extremely difficult to remove the old insulation and get it into black plastic bags.I am also afraid that I have to insulate the floor to some extent as well......from underneath!! Precisely because of compressed insulation. Remove parts of the underfloor. In that case, it's an advantage to have a sturdy, loose underfloor so you can lift away plank by plank and push up insulation. Not the most enjoyable task, but just roll up your sleeves......
However, I will only put a "cheaper" quality of insulation between the floors. ByggMax's lambda 40 insulation will suffice. The rooms are already heated.
Thanks for the responses so far. This is truly an awesome forum.
/Erber
What do you mean here?Larsa said:
Is it enough to, for example, spray loose-fill insulation into the floor if it would be possible with respect to studs, etc.?
For example, is it not necessary to make it airtight against the outer wall?