Building Materials and Construction Technology
nattugglan11: I have plans to just put paneling on one wall, like a feature wall, then I can use studs. So maybe I'll even put paneling all the way up to the ceiling to get a cool effect, we'll see. By the way, how does it work with electrical boxes and switches on the wall when you're building out with paneling quite a bit? Do you have to tinker with that somehow too?
Wasa: P.s As a () it can be mentioned that the plate in my sketch is tasked with holding the corner together in the event of any movements in the construction. D.s
scenic46: I built a guesthouse/generational dwelling (single-story with full basement) (40m2 building area, 33.6m2 living space) in 2007/08 for year-round use. I calculated and found that a 95mm frame + externally mounted 70mm was optimal. A lot of steel angles (Biltema cheapest) were used for the outer mounted joists since the facade will be supported by the outer wall section. The angles should mostly be
hakjon: Thank you! I will buy the steps from a snickeri that will also make a list there.
Bror: If the window is not too large. Fill the gap with polystyrene. Drill holes for frame screws in the top and bottom pieces near the side pieces. Insulate with joint foam. If the window is large such that this attachment feels insecure, you can attach wooden blocks in the gap where the frame screws are to be mounted.
eestere: I have built an extension with lightweight concrete blocks. Externally, the wall will be insulated with foam plastic which will then be plastered. I have seen several lightweight concrete constructions that are skim-coated/rough-plastered before they are completed. Do I need to skim coat the walls with any mortar before the foam plastic is applied? The construction is thus complete and the foam
SnickarNicke: I am mostly curious about those of you who have the garage in the basement, what kind of walls do you have? I have plaster walls myself and I don't think it's optimal as I can't keep things organized when I work. It often results in me constantly bumping into them, which creates marks. Could tiles be a good alternative to plastered walls?
AndersS: Even professionals experience cracks, or where you have done everything by the book, so it's not just a beginner's problem. Houses move and you can never be completely sure in advance; it can crack after a month or after x years, so there are no guarantees. Good luck.
LenaBenny: I'm currently decorating the attic and am looking for affordable trims for windows and doors. I haven't mitered moldings on the lower floor and would like the same upstairs. Byggmax charges 179:- for one side of the doors and that felt a bit much!! Does anyone know if you can buy just the top pieces somewhere, with lacquered ends? Need help! I really don't want to spend over 300:- on each window
Elvis69: It is probably optional. Personally, I prefer steel for its straightness. The alternative of using steel tracks as base plates and top plates with wooden studs in between is also nice as it is quick to build. You don't need to cut the studs so precisely...
Fatboymos: Hey. Newly bought house with kitchen problems. Planning to make a sink myself with mosaic (47-47mm). What is the best base for this? I've heard something about water-resistant MDF? All tips are good for a novice!!!
Elvis69: [citat] I assume by "cellplast" you mean the moisture barrier, i.e., plastic foil... It should be removed and placed as you mentioned yourself, over the new framework. An alternative is also to place the foil between the gypsum boards instead of placing it between the studs and the first board. A bit easier installation!
Kalarne: No, I will not have any reinforcement. However, the chimney should be placed on a foundation so that it does not rest on the stove. Then maybe some flat iron might be needed in the construction, but not as reinforcement. Between the stove and the chimney, there should be a piece of metal hose of a few decimeters so that the stove can expand without pressing against the chimney.
JanneSjo: ok interesting - I also think it would look nice without thresholds - we'll see if I dare to skip stopping the floor at each threshold (as suppliers indicate) I also have underfloor heating which might affect the floor further
Tjippen: If you want a standard interior wall, 45x70 studs + MU are sufficient. Check out: http://www.svenskttra.org/byggbeskrivningar/createpdf.asp?Item=37&FileId=1037&FileTypeId=103&Doc=broschyr&Cid=931
AndersS: You can also attach a strip or a strip of the MDF board at the back edge of the shelf, depending on which material you have on the back of the wardrobe. Make the shelf 16mm shorter in depth and then glue/nail a strip that is 16mm*40-50mm, giving you a stable shelf. I have done this on some long shelves for a bookshelf with large books that otherwise tend to bend.
chrille112: I've decided to use studs now, it will probably be best after all! I have some 2"2 and 2"4 at home, will be a little mix of them :)
Micke78: saw what a spygatt is, are the installation instructions the same as for a regular floor drain?
Prosit: I am going to more or less fully renovate my 1960s house, and when it comes to the attic, a lot of things are going to happen up there: 1. Replace the roof (tiles, felt, sheet metal work, and some roof decking, I believe) 2. The electricity will be replaced throughout the house, and some new lamp outlets will be added in the ceilings, so I assume there will be some junction boxes from the attic.
estwing: brilliant... no the beam is only 2.5 years old so..... thanks anyway... regards carpenter estwing
SCB: Steel brush. If there is a lot of rust that is stuck hard, you can use a steel brush that you attach to the angle grinder or drill. Start with a soft brush and keep in mind that it creates a terrible amount of dust.
volbey: Hey hey! check this out, set it up in the kitchen magnifiko! it's super easy! http://www.k-rauta.se/bygg_5453.htm:D
pbengtsson: [citat] If you're meticulous, no strips are needed at all. But the Huntonite must (as I forgot) be attached to 70x28 battens that you secure last. Whether or not to use plastic as a vapor barrier is something to consider; I would have opted out of plastic completely as it's a renovation.
snickarboden: Guessing TS means sparse against gables. Clearly, things move a little, that's why you should apply latex in transitions when drywalling. /Kent
Sylar: I previously had a 230L on an Indian piece of furniture. The top surface was really uneven. I added a layer of about 12mm foam board and on top of that a chipboard. Leveled everything with wedges. Worked like a charm. I made a trim to hide the foam and chipboard. Not sure if that's for you, but you definitely don't want 200L of water on the floor. If it's full glass, it needs to be even
nicgu: Ok, thank you! Snickarboden, you have made me think a little more, possibly it is a heck of a job that "tastes" a little, and in addition, you must have the luck that the inner walls are supported by the joists if you saw around them. No, it will probably be to custom order the flooring.
estwing: [citat] that you get cracks in corners and angles may be because you did not use 50x50 profiles.. very important. best regards carpenter estwing
GrodanMaja: [citat] Thanks for the link! :-)