trying again.. this is the 3rd time I'm trying to write about this topic.. Vista / explorer crashes when I try to preview pictures I want to upload.. I'll keep it short this time...:rolleyes:

I'm planning to open the intermediate floor in the hallway of the house, which is a 1½-story -73 (LB). I've removed a part of the attic as well as the floor particle board on the upper floor and the plasterboard in the ceiling on the lower floor.
I would like to "remove" 2 of the beams, no 2 & 4 in the pictures, after consulting the drawings, I think it "should" be possible to, for example, relieve them using hangers and mount them to the thicker beams (no 1 & 3) and no 5 in the pictures???

I think I've been skilled in paint so I hope the small pictures are decipherable:D

Is there any skilled person who knows what applies and would like to throw in some comment about the ideas?:o

Kind regards
 
  • View of an opened floor structure showing numbered wooden beams labeled 1 to 5, with certain beams marked for removal.
  • Exposed wooden floor joists with five numbered sections, highlighting joists 2 and 4 for potential removal, visible in a partially constructed area.
  • Blueprint for a multi-floor house showing joists and beams, with numbered notes in red circles indicating structural elements for renovation.
  • Diagram showing floor joists labeled 1-5, with a circle suggesting the use of joist hangers for support. Outer wall labeled "yttervägg.
I would have dared to remove them from what I can see, would have even dared to dump number three if needed..
 
Thank you, Master! Sounds great! If I take the 3:an too, is it just a matter of hanging it with, for example, a joist hanger in 1:an and 5:an like the others?

Sincerely
 
I think I should probably say, sitting here and being absolutely certain without having seen it on-site doesn't feel right. I assume that the intermediate floor came in prefabricated sections when the house was built, so the wider beams are simply a section joint. The centerline on the drawing I assume is also section joints, and if so, the beams don't extend from the other long wall, just from the middle of the floor.

I THINK it's just a matter of going ahead.

If you have a wall in the middle of the house on the ground floor, I'm even more convinced that it shouldn't be a problem. If I'm completely wrong, someone will probably point it out before the weekend is over...
 
Thanks for the answers, master, but I chickened out a bit and only took the first 2 that I initially wrote. Yes, the house has a heart wall in the middle on the ground floor, so I shouldn't have affected any bearing capacity...?

Here's a picture of the build so far.:p

I'll update with more when it starts to get finished:)
 
  • A partially constructed ceiling with visible wooden beams and insulation, electrical wires hanging down, and nearby light fixtures.
Hello!

Had a friend who's a carpenter here today, he thought after looking at the drawing and checking the support beams that I could remove all the beams, i.e., 1 & 3 as well according to the new picture below... Anyone feel like making an intelligent comment? :o It's only a total width of 170 cm on the "hölet."

Kind regards
 
  • Blueprint showing a wall plan with marked support beams and a 170 cm opening suggestion, including metal brackets illustration for context.
  • Construction site showing numbered wooden support beams above a doorway, with some beams potentially marked for removal based on renovation plans.
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I don't have any intelligent comment in stock, but I have a question, What are you going to use the studs for if you don't remove them? ;)
 
Support the remaining floor with?:D Joking aside, I understand what you mean master:) I've cut all the studs now, no sway or anything on the upper floor :)

I'll send in a couple of pictures later.
 
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