Switch with glulam beam

[Mikael_L]

What the columns are supposed to transfer the load to is a concrete slab, so it shouldn't be a problem.

It's possible to crack a concrete slab with a point load if a significant part of the roof load comes down there. But it depends on where the point load is located and how the slab is constructed (and what's underneath the concrete). It's common that you need to have a reinforced slab under glulam columns that support ridge beams and similar. In your case, it doesn't seem like the loads will be very large, but it probably needs to be determined based on much more information than we have here. But you can't just assume it will hold just because it's concrete.

 

[Tiger79]

Anyone with tips on a contractor in northern Stockholm?

 

[imported_Byggaren]

Anyone have tips on a contractor in northern Stockholm?

Try J&W.
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Byggaren

 

[Tiger79]

Thanks

 

[Tiger79]

Had an architect (?) at home. Who wanted to calculate the whole thing but didn't take any measurements of how the wall is situated in the house (distance from exterior walls). It sounded like he was going to look at some tables and add a bit extra... It sounds difficult to determine the loads with only the ceiling height and the size of the opening.

After that, a quality manager was supposed to approve the calculations of the reinforcement. Is this how it usually goes?

Best regards

 

[imported_Byggaren]

Had an architect (?) at home. He wanted to calculate the whole thing but he didn't take any measurements of how the wall is situated in the house (distance outer walls). It sounded like he would look in some tables and add a little extra... It sounds difficult with only the measurements of ceiling height and size of the hole to calculate the loads.

After that a quality manager would approve the calculations of the beam. Does it usually work like this?

Regards

No! That architect definitely doesn't know how to calculate. If he/she knew, he/she would have measured the total internal width of the house and where the so-called heart wall is in relation to it, measured where the hole would be made along the house, looked at the type of roof truss, CC, and what slope it has. Checked to ensure there are no other considerations to take (chimneys, stair openings, etc.). Then gone home and possibly consulted tables if he/she couldn't calculate it on site with the help of paper, pencil, and a calculator. *shakes head*
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Byggaren

 

[Tiger79]

Exactly my thought.

Most of the tasks you mention are familiar even to me.

The hole mentioned goes from one outer wall, the opening after posts are in place will be 193cm.
Only 2 rafters in the floor structure should need to be supported. The third in the area will continue to rest on the brick wall. There is no wall above where the opening will be.

The house is a 1.5-story villa
Total interior width: 8030mm
B1 to heart wall: 3650mm
B2 to heart wall: 4380mm
Upstairs between knee walls: 4690mm
Free-standing hole will be 1930
Total beam length including 90mm posts: 2110mm

Framework rafter CC: 1050mm

Calculated in software from Martinsons, this gives:

L40 90*180mm Deformation 6mm L/300
Minimum support width 31mm
Support load on beam end 13.436kN

Deformation of 6mm I believe will decrease since I'm keeping the wall plate and the existing "beam" of 50mm. Glue the existing and new beam together.

Best regards

 

[Tiger79]

The demolition has now begun.

Should the beam be attached to the hammarband or the lower part of the truss?

Today it seems to be loosely lying on the central wall.

Are there permanent wedges if you need to remove two bricks at one end and place the beam there?

Should the post be anchored to the outer wall, or is it unwise since wood and stone move differently?

 

[imported_Byggaren]

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Are there permanent wedges if you want to remove two bricks at one end and place the beam there?

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Yes. Made of plastic. Called Knutssonkilar.
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The Builder

 

[Tiger79]

One must thank the Byggaren.

Best regards

 

[Tiger79]

Now the wall is gone. The brick wall extended quite deep below floor level. I now have a channel that is 14cm wide and 6cm deep. At the bottom of this is some type of asphalt board, and beneath this is concrete. What is the best thing to do now?

Place the post in the hole and then use self-leveling compound afterwards or use some fiber-reinforced filler and place the post at floor level?

Regards

 

[imported_Byggaren]

Now the wall is gone. The brick wall went quite deep below floor level. I now have a channel that is 14cm wide and 6cm deep. At the bottom of this is some type of asphalt board, beneath this is concrete. What is the best thing to do now?

Place the pole in the hole and level with compound afterwards or use some fiber-reinforced compound and place the pole at floor level?

Regards

The best thing is to remove everything down to the concrete slab and place a non-moisture-absorbing material that also functions as a pressure-distributing underlay for the pole, which should then be at floor level or just below. For example, a solid plastic board (like a cutting board) and on top of that a plank as thick as the depth allows. This way, you are moisture-secured and have a better relation between the point load under the pole foot and the concrete slab.
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Builder

 

[Tiger79]

Hi.

Thanks for another good response.

Should the plank be pressure-treated or is it fine with a regular "vit"?

Regards

 

[Donwoody]

you don't use pressure-treated wood indoors because of the smell it can emit

 

[Tiger79]

Donwoody

Thanks.

Then it will be an Ikea cutting board and a regular board.

Haven't noticed any moisture from the slab, so this will be durable.

Regards