Building Materials and Construction Technology
Pagno: Yes, it would have been interesting to meet! Unfortunately, I have a big family and work quite a lot with renovations..... It sounds simple when I read my own words hmmmmm. but then again, I know what I mean:)
gluecifer: Probably very simple. I recently changed interior doors, and it was the upper model in the picture. Just get new doors and attach them to the old hinges. http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ByggradListItem.aspx?id=44377
Pagno: I have the same measurements on my facade! Ordered new from Smedjebacken Trä o List, paid for new steel but got my money back for the steel when I specified how much I wanted... Very satisfied, it ended up being even cheaper than standard panel from the lumberyard... I should add that I use vertical, horizontal, and vertical again... measurements from 650mm to full length over 5400mm so there is
gnilrub: Have studied a bit and it seems that most manufacturers of modern tile stoves of the type that are covered with optional tiles afterwards use olivine as the core material. I haven't found any place to buy it, so it will probably have to be brick. Does anyone have any tips on what mortar to use to be able to cover it with tiles? I've also considered lightweight concrete and leca, but they isolate,
Anonymiserad 23608: Yes, glulam is stronger. Here you can compare design values and load-bearing capacity: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/PageTwoColumn.aspx?id=1458
Crebel: Should have added the information that I (as I usually do) will be building the scaffold myself with wood. No Haki then :-). But good to get some tips on how it's usually done, that's what I wanted. Thanks for that! Will probably be a combination of the above, just spreading them out...
Johan Gunverth: These sliding panels used to be made of thin plywood, didn't they? That's what I've seen, at least.
Celtic: Drying time varies from brand to tube, so if you want to be on the safe side, wait 12-15 hours.
Håkan Larsson: Thank you for the information, I will buy 19 cm Leca and build a wall. Regards Håkan:)
spik_i_foten: Hello. I am planning to open up between two apartments in a house from the twenties. The apartments are on the second floor. Below us, there is one apartment floor, a ground floor with a utility room and commercial spaces, and below that, there is a garage. Above us, there are three more apartment floors + an attic. I have had an engineer on site who assessed that the walls are most likely not
Mats: This one is a bit larger, but if you look at http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/ and their cycle storage, you will get close.
xl15: Yep. IPE180 is sturdy stuff. It might be a couple hundred kilos of bathtub on the upper floor, better safe than sorry!
Kjell_G: Well, the more you tear down... The plumber stopped by, the mixer was to be moved, possibly the drain too. It turned out that when removing the cabinets, the drain pipe down into the concrete vault had cracked. Worse yet, the pipes are built into the wall, so to possibly move the drain, an old particle board was removed. There were traces of water, dark spots on the bathroom wall on the other
Ada: Ina 7, I don't understand your reasoning when it comes to plastic in walls and air conditioning? But you are right about "undertak" though most people usually call it luftspalter.
vagabondo: Hello! I'm a bit puzzled. I'm going to build a fence on a fairly flat plot, but when I try to level the crossbars starting from the first post, they end up about 15 cm higher on the last post. I have to position the lower crossbar at least 12 cm up on the post due to the post bracket, which means the crossbar will sit about 30 cm up on the last post. If I then place the pickets in the same way,
Fnularn: Is the crack near where the neighbor chipped away the concrete block?
Mats: There are even heavier ones available. Look at those used to nail together Stocklador, for example :)
lenamm: Hello! We also have a similar house, but we chose IKEA wardrobes which we placed about three meters out from the low wall (our low wall is 900mm high). The wardrobes are angled with a corner section, thus they also cover part of the inner wall that is straight (not sloping ceiling). The corner section provides a lot of storage space. The wardrobes are about 2.30 m high and the front edge is
roggabear: ok, thanks for the help. agree that it shouldn't be about large amounts of water getting on the board, and with sufficient ventilation, there should be no problem with regular board.
tholi75: I have decided to purchase an oak board (1000 SEK at ByggOle until 8/31 or while supplies last...) and cut out the handrails myself. They won't be round but plank-like pieces, similar to the ones already in place, though they are in lacquered pine. From the board, I will be able to cut 5 pieces that are approximately 12 x 3 x 2500 cm (max). I need three handrails and some other parts around the
somelvis: The walls are probably made of lightweight concrete. Above windows and door openings, there is a beam of much harder lightweight concrete or regular concrete. That's why some screws work and others don't. Use regular plugs in the hard concrete and special lightweight concrete plugs in the porous areas. Fischer has good lightweight concrete plugs, Biltema too, actually. The price difference is
Krawk: Fire protection is hardly what governs the choice. Gypsum, etc., on the inside provides sufficient protection. As mentioned, the problem with house fires is not the collapse of the house. All steel in public spaces is hardly fire-painted either. It can be completely bare and only protected by a low utilization rate or interaction with concrete filling. Large, heavy steel frames of rolled profiles
Boan: [citat] Yeah, that's what I'm a little afraid of.. but the walls today are completely flat, and it's framed, and the plywood we're putting at the bottom is smooth... Does 6mm gypsum need to be glued, or is it enough with screws?
zadix2: Old thread, but I'm curious about how it went? I'm considering doing a similar extension myself, and have the same options for beam support. I may also be thinking about having a vaulted ceiling in the new part and then also in the existing part... but it might be totally economically unjustifiable... :o
ollesthlm: Perhaps I did this unnecessarily, but now it is done and it feels better to be on the safe side. There doesn't seem to be any pressure from above and I probably would have managed this without avvaxling.
Granis: [citat] There are adjustable electrical boxes you know.... The boxes I've installed have regular depth + an additional 25mm!