Building Materials and Construction Technology
steffner: The 22-glesen is screwed into two rooms, so I would prefer not to tear it down and use 28. I can add that I placed blocks between the rafters against the raw boards for reinforcement. The salning with 22mm is screwed across the rafters, so it doesn’t negatively affect the durability. I want the salning because there will be a crazy amount of pipes in the ceiling, which would turn the glesen
joflopp: Check the manufacturer's instructions that should be available at the building supply store. Bauhaus sold (perhaps still sells?) boards that can withstand joints between studs and they were not significantly more expensive than other flooring chipboard.
petersk: It doesn't sound like it's load-bearing. But if you want to be completely sure, contact a structural engineer for an on-site visit.
evoline: Yellow plug with 4.0x35mm wood screw was used. I used a 5.5mm hammer drill. Only needed 6 on a 3.7m strip that was 12mm thick. There were 9 drive-in nails before. With a bit of putty and paint, it turned out well :D Thanks for all the help
Jannemstd: We are going to take down an old built-up chimney hood and instead create a smooth wall, where we will install a new modern fan. But my question is how to handle the transition from a built-up chimney flue to the new fan duct. I'm considering placing a panel over the hole, making a hole where the new fan duct fits, and then building this into the new ceiling; can this be done?
Åke A: Thanks for the tip. I first checked the Byggmax website and they only had 120x270. My local hardware store also didn't mention 90x270. Since neither my wife nor I are athletes, we planned for 90x250. After your tips, I checked K-rauta's website and they had 90x270 sheets. Now I have ordered 270 sheets from the local dealer. Åke A
AndersS: Choose pressure-treated wood and paint after a year. I've built a fence with pressure-treated wood that was painted, and the wood is in good condition despite the paint being a bit shabby now after 15 years. However, I've had to scrap the old painted railing on the patio made with regular wood after 15 years. We also sprayed the fence with an electric sprayer which has vertical slats, and my side
ppalm: Hello I've also considered building such things but got four Nefab boxes, so the need was satisfied. I would have used plasterboard corner beads as reinforcements, which I would have fixed with rivets or something. Cheap. Best regards, P
ktm250: Because it is a wet room, you have a waterproof membrane. The adhesive must be approved by the manufacturer of the waterproof membrane to be a complete system.
handy: Hello I have a foundation of old cement block. I would like to add insulation above ground on the exterior with 70-100mm of suitable material and plaster the surface. Cement block is brittle and porous, so plugs are not ideal. Someone suggested gluing polystyrene board with plaster onto the wall. Does anyone have experience with this or suggestions for another suitable method?
basshunter: I have a staircase with a banister (see picture http://iloapp.gladers.net/blog/husbygge?ShowFile&image=1173037975.jpeg, where one of the banister slats is loose in the ceiling mount. How do I fix it? Drill a hole slightly upwards and insert a screw or is there another method?
x-amin: I'm saving well on this procedure.. The chimney is about 130 years old. Stone set..
Style: Hello, Yes, that's correct, those walls are of the same thickness! =)
Gladh: I spoke with a structural engineer who calculated for our house. A 1½ story 1970s villa with concrete tiles and a span on the roof trusses of 7.5 meters. We wanted to open up between the kitchen and living room and right there was the load-bearing wall, and to open it up 5.5 meters as we wanted, he calculated the following: "The beam will be an HEA 180 with columns of VKR 70x70x5 mm at about a
Solrosen: Ok, if we turn the tables: Suppose a mortared retaining wall, with backfill/soil behind it. What does the inside surface look like? ;-)
Jan-Å: It was recently discussed in another thread, opinions were divided but I (and as I recall, the majority of the posts) believed that the tar should be removed before starting with the new floor.
Korp-Johan: Hello frav. 2-3 cm over 5 meters? What is there to argue about? Leave a spruce board in the sun for an hour and you'll see! Of course, there are different classes. You get what you pay for. But even premium wood can be ruined if treated improperly. Choosing yourself is obviously best, as Jan-Å stated, but don't be horrified if it's a little twisted, as long as there aren't too many knots. If the
Korp-Johan: Hello forest nymph, You need to start from scratch and fix the sagging and the base before you even consider laying flooring. Everything cracks, crumbles, with moisture damage and large costs as a result. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but improperly built wet rooms are dangerous! If you aren't absolutely sure, you should ask a certified professional to check before you start anything. Maybe
Stringfellow Hawke: However, I wouldn't drill myself, spend money on a håltagare if you have the opportunity. I recently had to make a 120-hole and an 80-hole for a wc and had to pay the "minimum charge" of 2500 kr, but I clearly think it was worth it considering that it was a 400 mm thick ceiling! Well-spent money...
niblom: Hi, I am renovating and want beadboard in the house. I bought the regular one, but it takes an insanely long time to paint (mostly because of all the layers and drying time). I can only paint 1.5 packages at a time. Is there pre-painted beadboard available for purchase? I would prefer it to be completely white. /N
stedevil: [citat] You write a lot of wise things, but that part seems a bit strange. Since wood starts to deflect far, far before the breaking limit, it is always dimensioned according to the maximum deflection limit in houses, not the breaking limit, right? So the actual breaking limit is well 50-100% away if the deflection limit is at a 5% safety margin? If it were dimensioned within 5% of the breaking
dahl: Hello, It turned out to be lightweight concrete. The cabinet is now up and will hopefully stay on the wall :) Thank you all for your advice! Mattias
Mats: The skivorna have been discussed earlier and just like Krawk says, they are more porous and harder to work with than the regular ones. I recommend that you use their regular skivorna instead.
Krawk: Yes. And no. The bending stiffness is calculated in the same way. It solely depends on geometry. However, glue-laminated timber is both stronger and stiffer than regular construction timber. A 100x200 glue-laminated beam is therefore stronger than a geometrically identical beam of solid wood. See BKR chapter 5 For your two wooden beams to function as a single high beam, they need to be very
estwing: they are connected only because if you have higher walls you can *slide* out one of them. just like a ladder... regards snickar estwing
chrille112: We would like to do the widening anyway, to get a wider hallway. I was considering casting plinths, that's good, right? I have read that you should have an expansion joint between different foundation types. What does that mean in practice? Now the house is on granite blocks, maybe that counts as the same foundation type? I will contact a carpenter about the construction. If we were to do
Krawk: So, is it an existing beam? Has there been a pillar in the middle, or has it always been undersized? It would probably take quite a lot for you to make such a reinforcement good, but if you can do the work yourself, it might be worth a try. Otherwise, you can replace the glued laminated beam with a steel beam that can bear with a lower profile. In any case. For your steel to be of any use, it
Alexandersson_1: Hi! Do you mean the kind of stone they have on tennis courts? If that's the case, talk to Lawnit, who builds tennis courts, there is also a type of rubber that comes in different colors. I think it was the show Bygglov that fixed a playground for a wheelchair user in this rubber material. Best regards, Alexandersson_1