Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mats: We'll need to reinforce the floor at the points where the pressure will be applied, based on the conclusions from the threads we've had about lifts and stoves :) However, I can't really calculate it either.
titanium: Thanks for the info. I almost suspected that the color would fade quickly.
orstigsnybro: [citat] Hmm, maybe I should take a few photos out there. There are thinner plywood/masonite boards up against the ceiling. According to someone building a house next door, it should suffice as an air gap and thus it's just a matter of pushing up the insulation (after it's been framed, I assume). ;) I'll get back with some pictures. ;)
Bohult: Hello, Thank you so much for your reply, I have been on vacation and not very active online. The insulation that is in the current wall is called, according to a friend from Skåne, nikeplattor and consists of wood/cement, not straw as I initially thought :). Bohult
Mats: Of course it is. Just look at a power plant dam or something :) however is a completely different question though. Partly it's about dimensioning and reinforcement, and then it will require quite impressive molds to handle that amount of concrete
Mats: For the last question, both yes and no. They become weaker in terms of how much weight they can hold, but that’s usually not a problem. What often requires thicker timber is typically that it shouldn’t bend in the middle, so it doesn't matter if you notch a bit at the ends, for example. You can place a roof rafter out far enough so that you can use it as a fixture for the panel, possibly
duell: We have a sun shelf on the house; when it's mounted, it tilts 30 degrees out from the house. In the corners, it should be mitered at 45 degrees, but that's only when it's at the right angle. However, when cutting in the miter saw, it's lying down, then it's about 40 degrees and about 22 degrees side tilt, but it's not exact. Does anyone know the exact angles? Or how to calculate them?
JanneL: Yes, or 4 feet wide and 8 feet long, 1220 x 2440 mm.
mrVoodoo: mats_o: Good point there about the pressure-treated wood drying and shrinking, that's something I've experienced quite a bit with several gates I've made for horse paddocks, resulting in an annoying little sag in the gates. After seeing how much they've sagged, I built the remaining gates with a 1.5 cm "excess" slope, and they've sagged exactly level. But if I build more, I'll definitely try
mickan2: I wrote this thread under another title but didn't get any responses, so I'm trying here. I would like to know more about asbestos. I know that it is likely present in the tile grout and adhesive in our house built in '59, but if the grout starts to come loose a little, does it pose any risk? We seal with silicone as we find such places, is that enough of a precaution until we can afford a
Jan-Å: [citat] What? Isn't the garage the most important space in the whole house?:D I just added insulation and paneling to mine. I used a membrane instead of windbreaker paper, really practical if there are two people. I got a roll of membrane that was wide enough to cover the whole wall, "just" (not so just, it's good if there are two) to roll out and staple to the studs.
Lakebone: Did you use rebar? I'm going to do the same but in an exterior wall where the hole is clean without plaster, just the leca surface. I read somewhere that mortar would suffice, but I'm a bit unsure.
gnilrub: I simply added a third wind board of 22x95 that sticks up just enough. It actually looks quite okay and a bit fun to stand out from the crowd.
microtimer: The timber is rock hard... smells good, fresh all the way through... If I ever build something new from scratch, it will be timber or stone. Both are durable and wonderful building materials.
mrVoodoo: I might as well take the opportunity to link to the Glue guide that a kind soul linked to me just a day ago. In "usual" cases, adhesive might work, but I think it’s better to fully glue it and spread it with a notched spatula. You can see a variety of adhesives for gypsum-to-gypsum in the glue guide. :) I personally would glue gypsum to a wooden floor, and it ended up being Ardex S48, although
Hammer1: Considering putting paneling on the ceiling of the new house instead of drywalling with all the subsequent spackling... I want larger panels than the standard 1200x600. At least 1800x600 or 2400x600 like plasterboard. Has anyone seen this?
Carambaa: To my "amateur ears" it sounds like it would work provided that your outer wall, which I assume is a concrete wall partly below ground and uninsulated on the inside, is dry and well-drained.
Mats: One must calculate properly on such exercises and check that the ground can take the weight, and then, as mentioned, reinforce upwards floor by floor. Built an additional floor at work, and it was a really big operation with everything surrounding it.
peter_02: Hello, I'm about to start insulating a "cold room" in the house, it has been uninsulated since it was built in '46. To my question... how much should one frame down the ceiling before putting up masonite?
Carambaa: The tar paper on the inside is probably intended as some form of vapor barrier, I'm not really sure about its utility, but where I live, the carpenters have traditionally used a construction where there is asphalt board on the outside and tar paper on the inside when it comes to building summer cottages/holiday homes.
coss: I have counted completely wrong. A 56x225 beam is enough. However, I can't figure out if I can use 45x70 instead of LT90x90. I have tried MLD at work now, but they only have LT as columns. //Sture
kimpo: http://swedspan.sitedirect.se/websites/swedspan/sd_page/17/1/index.php?
Crebel: I can't find any information on how to join the bärlina in the corners. I'm talking about the standing high frame where the floor beams are attached (which in my construction description stands on the sill that in turn lies on the foundation wall). Half lap joint? Or just nail simply, possibly complemented with angle brackets?
Carambaa: Going along the same lines, two questions arise: what c-c measurement should I use for 17mm tongue and groove paneling (probably beadboard), and what kind of nails should I use? I have a nail gun that handles 1.2 mm brads, but I would probably have preferred 1.4 mm. What do you think, can 1.2 mm handle more than just trim and paneling, like a ceiling?
Yrrol: 1. Don't know what Syll is 2. Inside the small cellar+potato cellar, it's clear that the drainage doesn't work, if there even is any. There's a wooden shelf for the potatoes that has rotted away, as has a frame; I've shown before a hole in the floor that's always filled with water and yes, it's visible on the outer walls too. Funnily enough, the wood in the ceiling is fine. - I ponder a bit why
Humulus: One thing that I think many who are considering buying used small houses and Radon is that elevated levels are found in most small houses built before around 1980 (and sometimes later as well). In a typical 60s house with a basement, it is common to find levels of 150-300Bq. So, it is not unexpected to find around 250Bq when measuring in such an untreated house. However, at the same time, it is
Mats: It looks a bit like 0-8 crush from a distance, and if it is, it will suffice as a ramp to your garage. You'll probably need to rake it once a year or so, depending on the traffic. The advantage over a cast solution is that if it starts to shift, you can easily adjust the gravel.