Building Materials and Construction Technology
Rottis: I have now acquired a glulam beam of 90 x 180 mm, which according to calculations should suffice for an opening of 2m. Now it's just a matter of getting it up the right way:o
Bele: Considering an expansion of a 70s house, I'm wondering what is standard in exterior wooden walls today. Do you place the exterior gypsum so it aligns with the foundation elements and rests on the cement edge, or does it extend beyond with a free edge downwards? It seems most sensible to set the sill flush with the edge and just place the exterior gypsum + furring strip + panel outside. Is that
Marcus J: Why not some fiber-reinforced leveling compound?
Marcus J: Are you just going to fish out the pipe, or why not put a box from which you can neatly pull the electricity? The smaller the hole you make in the drywall, the more fiddly and complicated it will be. Make a large enough hole so you can access and work, as it's not more difficult to replace a larger piece of drywall. It's always nice to have a bit of wiggle room when working. Tap to find any studs
Havsutsikt: I might be mixing apples and oranges a bit. My brother-in-law received a quote for an unassembled staircase at just over 100k SEK; it was an open one with visible stringers in oak, a handrail with an oak top rail and stainless steel rods, although it did include a lot of railings for the ceiling opening. I believe a closed one is cheaper. We added 50k SEK to upgrade our staircase in our house
yens: I think it looks like an exciting project!! A real horse job indeed, but you have the potential to make the house much more usable with a significant space in the basement. As with all other constructions, it's essential to plan every detail carefully, multiply that time by five, and consider if it's worth investing that number of hours. OT: it can't be people who have ever used a camera with
peterpan: Clarifications: The floor structure is 220 mm insulated with mineral wool, a layer of gypsum, and on top, 22 mm chipboard flooring (built in 1980). The sounds I want to eliminate primarily are talking and stereo.
Mats: That's why you should place a plate there that you screw both discs into.
Mats: Consider turning radii and such things. If you're going in with a car and trailer, more space is required if you need to turn.
Sowerhill: Air gap and 1 nail/panel board on each stud... When nailing tongue-and-groove paneling, it is important that it has the ability to move, so do not use more than 1 nail at each fastening point on the panels. This is to minimize cracking!
pbengtsson: Another option is to buy angle irons that you use to attach 2"2 to the posts. A bit cheaper than buying a router, but not as neat.
mrVoodoo: [citat] Hehe definitely, or the band saw! But that might be a bit over the top for an amateur to buy one, perhaps? :D But you're always tempted, there can never be too many machines :cool:
Kodlock: Hmm, yes that's how I was thinking about the strips. With plywood on, it will probably be stiff and good anyway. Good tip with the laser level! Thanks /Thomas
Alexandersson_1: Hello! Where can one buy wood fiber insulation? I would like "hard" boards so that I can build sound traps. I have heard that these boards are suitable for that. It should also work with ground insulation boards (not polystyrene), but it doesn't feel nice to have that dust inside. Regards Alexandersson_1
Magnus_Nordmark: Here is a (actually) really good instructional video that covers exactly what you're going to do, drainage and a new basement staircase. Good luck! http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Byggmax/Byggprojekt/Markarbete.aspx
v-g: If you stumble in the shower or lean against the wall, it's good if it doesn't shatter into pieces. Glass blocks are not something I would really recommend for a shower. If you absolutely must have them, perhaps an end could be an aluminum U-channel running from wall to ceiling, covering a part of the block. You could also consider such a channel against the wall so that the wall is essentially
marie79t: ok, thanks for the help... I'll try with sandspackel+reinforcement and we'll see... I have 5 layers of wallpaper to tear down, so that will take a couple of weeks. I can start with the window so it can move for a couple of weeks at least. If it cracks, I can scrape up the crack and fill it with latex before I paint, making it almost invisible... //Zeb
Krawk: The wall studs are normally (in somewhat modern houses) spaced 60 or 45cm apart. The beam you are talking about is (I think) the top plate and/or load-bearing beam. It bends down insignificantly because otherwise you get cracks in the wall. Or do you mean the floor joists? See here for terminology: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup1spalt.aspx?id=1324&contextPage=5937 (There is lots of
byggare henke: have you put plastic on any of the other walls? the same building method is not used then as now. can become too tight
byggare henke: it's probably different in the stores as well. not the same supplier for the screws, just the same packaging
funkisen: Anyone with experience (or opinions) on expanding any of the market's modular houses such as Smålandsvillan or Älsbyhus? What specific problems can one encounter that are unique to the expansion/modification of modular houses? Structurally, as far as I can understand, they are very similar to "any house." - How are the modules connected to each other, and could there be any issues there? - The
JanneSjo: [citat] Hi, I saw that I didn't answer your question about the weight. 19mm MDF weighs about 800kg per cubic meter, which is about 15kg per sqm 19mm thick. Your interior door should then weigh around 60kg, which is heavy. Is it a custom door in terms of dimensions, etc.? I bought an interior door Stable at Beijer for 900SEK and it is a bit more solid than the cheapest doors. There is an
Scout: I have to bite the bullet and move the rail and accept that the other boards will be about 10 cm shorter :-(
Lindhult: Just found out that deflection will be the determining factor. I will choose a steel beam HEA 280 or 300 depending on availability. Anders
JanneSjo: I would like to have shelves/doors ready-made in white with the dimensions 1200mm x 900mm, thickness about 16-19mm does anyone know if this exists?
Anonymiserad 23608: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/PageTwoColumn.aspx?id=1465
gnisten: I was thinking of updating since I have received quite a few interesting responses and solutions for my interior walls. An architect says that the walls leading to the dining room are not load-bearing. A structural engineer says that all walls bear equally according to the roof trusses. A worker at a larger construction company says that the wall that runs like a T through the dining room and
pf3016: I am building a carport with a storage room and was thinking of putting OSB boards on the long side inside the carport and then exterior gypsum board on top of that, but maybe that's a bit silly? Can you plaster the OSB boards?
Tomtebo: I need quite a few facade bricks (frost-resistant 250x120x62), I see online that Beijer charges 11 SEK each http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4469, which sounds expensive, but maybe that's the going rate? I live in Umeå, so primarily I'm looking for a better price here, but it would also be interesting to hear what bricks cost in other locations to have something to compare
ÄHByggare: The Small House Damage Board has compiled knowledge and experience on, among other things, crawl spaces, on commission. If the report is accurate, which should be assumed with the large number of consultants from the industry consulted, foundations like those from Älvsbyhus might be somewhat risky. Link to the report: http://www.smahusskadenamnden.se/rapport_kth.html Picture of affected crawl