Building Materials and Construction Technology
Funkydealer: The thread is somewhat old, but still relevant to me, so I hope I can still get some sensible advice. I live in a house with a crawl space foundation from the late 1800s. I began a major renovation in about 1/3 of the house during the summer of 2009. So far, I've replaced the floor beams and windows on the ground floor, and now the ceiling, including the intermediate beams, will be visible before
Lars-Erik: A slightly odd question.... I build my own solar panels. I buy the cells (silicon wafers) from China and solder the ribbons myself. I then place them with the active side against a glass sheet and fix them with a dab of glass silicone. Now to the question: I need to cover the backside with some material that is somewhat fluid. I could use silicone, but it's too viscous. When I try to "spread" the
andersmc: I have installed such things in the conservatory. The color is typical for factory-painted items. It's MDF underneath, so it can be filled and painted if desired. It's definitely possible to touch up; dabbing some paint on nail heads isn't a problem. If you're painting larger areas, you need to match both the shade and the gloss.
lobbin: I think 70mm, so it won't be cramped with all the connections I was thinking.
rickardg: Considering the time investment in a potential construction project, I found this old thread and am now wondering how much time depends on the size of the blocks and door openings, etc.? I'm thinking a bit about a house where there are many simple interior walls without any openings at all, and for interior walls, the blocks don't weigh as much. Shouldn't those interior walls go a bit faster
Matte V70: Hello. Is there anyone here who can help me calculate an H beam for my garage build? The garage will be 8x12 m with a loft above. I will use frame trusses, span 8 m. Since I don’t want any wall in the middle of the garage, I was thinking of placing an HEB beam under the floor structure for the loft (under the trusses). The length of the beam will be 9 m (the last 3 meters will be a storage area
Krawk: See page 10 in the quick guide: http://www.skogsindustrierna.org/LitiumDokument20/GetDocument.asp?archive=3&directory=749&document=9001 That is, a 45x145 C14 with nailed floor supports 2.10m. If you increase quality, decrease the center-to-center distance, or glue a chipboard, it will become even stronger.
louksor: Hello! I need help with suggestions for a roof over the stairs. I don't know how to start/do to make it look nice. I've put together the stairs, and I'm quite satisfied with them. But I also need to put up a roof to protect the door, etc. The stairs are 165cm wide, should the roof be the same width or wider than the stairs? My stairs look like this: [bild] [bild] I saw a house that had a good and
Dr.SiC: Ok, thanks for the answers. It will simply be a surprise the day we start tearing it up. My thought (or rather my builder's thought) is to nail a 45*145 as a "T" onto the existing studs, but then it's good if there is something it can stand on. Hopefully, there is a wall behind the wall, it looks that way since they seem to lay the sill at the edge of the wall.
alen: Don't really understand - can you provide a picture? If I understand correctly, you're talking about the gap between the frame and the wall that should be filled with drev and then covered with a narrow wooden strip or similar (plaster works too, but there's a risk of it cracking due to movement). Why drywall? Consider applying new plaster (mortar) and smoothing it out for a nice and lively
Jan-L: Another way is to search over the ceiling with a magnet, you can usually find the drywall screws and then of course...................the studs:)......hole-in-one magnet works well for this, but even a regular magnet should work.........
ud05555: We are going to replace the old ugly pine staircase in the house and want to buy a single-beam staircase in white-painted steel with oak steps. The staircase itself will consist of two straight sections with 6 steps each, as we have a landing that is fixed in the house. Have received some quotes, but the price tag is quite high (60-90 thousand). Is there anyone here who knows a manufacturer that
RoTe: Screwed the huntonit panels because the old ceiling was attached with brad nails = the reason for the completely new ceiling...
cheetah1: I don't know much about this, does this seem reasonable? A bit hard to see maybe, but oh well. Too bad byggahus reduces images so much.
JimmyB: Hi! I am planning to replace the old fiberglass-reinforced corrugated plastic roof on my sunroom, approximately 15 m2. I am considering the choice of roof. There are smooth polycarbonate roofs available, costing around 6000 SEK, for example, from Skånska byggvaror. Byggmax offers a simple corrugated plastic roof, and with accessories, it would cost around 1200 SEK. Is the difference in quality
TommyJ: I put cc400 in the garage and there you can sense a certain bending. The sheets were 1200x2400.
JanneSjo: I was thinking of a hatch that you press on the top part so it slides in and rests under the shelf above, i.e., under the cabinet's ceiling. Does anyone know where to find such a hinge? And what it's called?
GrodanMaja: I thought it would be silly to have the fabric directly under the top gravel layer, partly because it would probably come up and be visible but also because I would think the gravel would slide around a bit on it...
injonil: Ok, thanks! :)
gluecifer: Have now managed to locate two studs in the wall, so the rail that needs to be screwed to the wall will at least be attached to two studs with one screw each. Will take a longer one and drive straight through the stud and into the plank behind.
byggolle: Living in an apartment with a spiral staircase. Thought it looked nice and seemed smart at first. Now I hate it and am looking for a new apartment because of the staircase. So my tip is to skip the staircase.
Farzan: I think brass nails look nice in oak, and they should look good in teak as well. Pre-drilling oak strips is a good plan, getting thin nails into oak can be tricky...
El_-micke: you can dress the brick wall piece by gluing plaster with, for example, PL400 glue
Enhörningen: Thanks for all the posts. I'll probably go with concrete tiles. Best regards / Enhörningen
Eld: Although lightweight concrete began to be manufactured in Yxhult in 1929, it is still not very likely that you have lightweight concrete in your walls. It is more likely that you have old, weak lime plaster on either concrete, brick, or planks. I lived in a three-story rental building from the thirties a few years ago, and there the floor frames (except for the attic), the stairwell walls, and
Johan Gunverth: forgot one thing; you also need five-eleven clamps. The PU glue expands with great force. When you moisten the glue surfaces, it’s a question of them being soaking wet. Don’t skimp on the water. A hose is recommended. A plant spray is for wimps.
kimpo: Hopefully, the balcony door opens outward "as seen from the room." Then you might raise the floor and also raise the threshold to the balcony door by 2 cm. It's always easier to raise a floor than to lower it!!