The kitchen is to be replaced. The existing chipboard remains, it's uncertain if there are battens, probably not since the old fittings were nailed and screwed into the framework, attached to the studs. The plan is to apply a layer of gypsum board to the wall to facilitate tile laying. Necessary? Don't know, maybe tiles can be set on chipboard if, for example, you glue fabric or microlite?
Suggestion 1: stop with gypsum where the kitchen manufacturer recommends battens, lay a board or plywood of the same thickness as gypsum (13 mm) to provide a decent, possibly sufficient reinforcement?
Suggestion 2: remove the chipboard and batten according to the manufacturer's instructions. Complicated, water pipes are run in the wall, as well as electricity.
Which option is recommended, or are there better ways to do it?
Kjell G
Suggestion 1: stop with gypsum where the kitchen manufacturer recommends battens, lay a board or plywood of the same thickness as gypsum (13 mm) to provide a decent, possibly sufficient reinforcement?
Suggestion 2: remove the chipboard and batten according to the manufacturer's instructions. Complicated, water pipes are run in the wall, as well as electricity.
Which option is recommended, or are there better ways to do it?
Kjell G
The friend had overhead cabinets that were well secured in double drywall, using double drywall expanders, for 30 years. If you have chipboard + drywall, it should work just as well.
For new construction, I wouldn't hesitate to add wood blocks. But in your case, well, I wonder if I wouldn't just add an extra layer of drywall + expanders for double drywall to avoid tearing down walls. I don't think replacing drywall with plywood or board in a smaller area makes much difference compared to chipboard + drywall.
My amateur opinions ....
For new construction, I wouldn't hesitate to add wood blocks. But in your case, well, I wonder if I wouldn't just add an extra layer of drywall + expanders for double drywall to avoid tearing down walls. I don't think replacing drywall with plywood or board in a smaller area makes much difference compared to chipboard + drywall.
My amateur opinions ....
Yes, it will probably be like that - an extra layer of plasterboard and expanders where we can't find studs. But I still wonder why it would be so troublesome to tile on chipboard? Does it move too much? There is adhesive for the material, right? Well, he'll get his way.
Kjell G
Kjell G
A plasterboard is a dull "dead" material just like the tiles. The chipboard is significantly more active and therefore can cause problems as the different layers do not move in the same way. It's better for the movement to occur between the chipboard and plaster than for the tiles to come loose.
It's also possible to reinforce with a steel track and then place plaster over it. However, it may appear as a bulge on the wall, but perhaps it doesn't need to align with millimeter precision with the rest either?
But chipboard + plaster should be sufficient to attach to if you use solid fasteners and the chipboard is not too poor. (Or the cabinets too large)
It's also possible to reinforce with a steel track and then place plaster over it. However, it may appear as a bulge on the wall, but perhaps it doesn't need to align with millimeter precision with the rest either?
But chipboard + plaster should be sufficient to attach to if you use solid fasteners and the chipboard is not too poor. (Or the cabinets too large)
Hmm, the chipboard is from the 80s, feels quite porous when sawing into it. Maybe it's an idea to saw two grooves and notch out for a one-inch board? The walls are not load-bearing, so the strength won't be affected.
Kjell G
Kjell G
If the chipboard is bad, it's probably a good idea to remove it and place a strip of plywood there instead. Two cuts with the circular saw (with a bad blade because of the nails), remove the chipboard, and put up the plywood, screwing it into the studs. Then pass on outside with gypsum. Make sure you cut straight so you don’t have to fit the plywood. I would have gone big and made the strip at least 20cm high.
Notching the studs sounds tough. Especially if there’s a lot of pipes/electricity in the wall. If you want a little extra strength, put a kortling of thin sheet metal behind the plywood instead.
http://www.gyproc.se/produkter/stålprofiler/övriga+profiler+plåt+och+tillbehör/kortlingsprofil
Notching the studs sounds tough. Especially if there’s a lot of pipes/electricity in the wall. If you want a little extra strength, put a kortling of thin sheet metal behind the plywood instead.
http://www.gyproc.se/produkter/stålprofiler/övriga+profiler+plåt+och+tillbehör/kortlingsprofil
Well, the more you tear down...
The plumber stopped by, the mixer was to be moved, possibly the drain too. It turned out that when removing the cabinets, the drain pipe down into the concrete vault had cracked. Worse yet, the pipes are built into the wall, so to possibly move the drain, an old particle board was removed. There were traces of water, dark spots on the bathroom wall on the other side, mold growth on the back of the particle board. Not much, nothing damp now but something has been there, maybe just leakage from the sink/tile grout.
What advice do you give; definitely replace the boards, but surely you can't close up the wall and hide the pipes again? I've suggested renovating the bathroom wall (horizontal tongue and groove) and having all the pipes visible in the bathroom from now on. New pipes would be led up into the sink cabinet, T-connection into the bathroom, and then distributed to the sink, shower, etc. in the bathroom.
Need suggestions, welcome your opinions. By the way, the new kitchen wall will be OSB + gypsum now that the old particle boards are disappearing.
Kjell G
The plumber stopped by, the mixer was to be moved, possibly the drain too. It turned out that when removing the cabinets, the drain pipe down into the concrete vault had cracked. Worse yet, the pipes are built into the wall, so to possibly move the drain, an old particle board was removed. There were traces of water, dark spots on the bathroom wall on the other side, mold growth on the back of the particle board. Not much, nothing damp now but something has been there, maybe just leakage from the sink/tile grout.
What advice do you give; definitely replace the boards, but surely you can't close up the wall and hide the pipes again? I've suggested renovating the bathroom wall (horizontal tongue and groove) and having all the pipes visible in the bathroom from now on. New pipes would be led up into the sink cabinet, T-connection into the bathroom, and then distributed to the sink, shower, etc. in the bathroom.
Need suggestions, welcome your opinions. By the way, the new kitchen wall will be OSB + gypsum now that the old particle boards are disappearing.
Kjell G