Then I would not have given any advice on how they should get rid of the creak. :cool:
 
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Immobil Immobil said:
Unfortunately, it only helps in the short term.
The guys who installed the stairs here spent several hours waxing all surfaces between vang and steps.
 
Immobil Immobil said:
Gluing of all kinds is not recommended by leading staircase manufacturers!
It applies to the steps' attachment to the stringers, right? If you're reinforcing the treads, it's not wrong to screw and glue a beam underneath.
 
enSAM enSAM said:
The trellis is probably screwed into the vangstycket, so try to loosen the screws there so you can fold the trellis to the side, because behind there, there are probably one or two screws that go through the vangstycket and into the stair step. Tighten the screws as much as possible. On the other side, which is against the wall, you can't reach the screws unless you take down the stairs. If you drill, for example, four or five 10 mm holes in the angle between the step and the vangstycket and insert glued wooden plugs, you can also do it on the other side; then I think the stairs will be quiet.
It doesn't seem like it's screwed into the step from the vangstycket, maybe one should try that, a long one, pre-drilled. It sits like a bolt when you remove the wooden plug.
 
  • Close-up of a wooden plank with a visible screw head where a wood plug has been removed.
Suspect I'll have to live with squeaks. It's probably not the end of the world. How much work can I expect to remove the black board and install carpet instead?
 
Bumping a bit and thinking about closing off the staircase. I'll try a few steps and see if it gets quiet before going all out.
Regarding the railing, I was told it wasn't load-bearing, but is there somewhere I can read about this? It seems like the outer stringer is just hanging a bit, sort of.
 
  • Wooden staircase with railing against a blue wall, showing steps and vertical slats.
É
useless useless said:
Is it about the attachment of the steps to the stringers? If you want to reinforce the treads, it's not wrong to screw-glue a support underneath.
@Immobil
Wondering the same thing, isn't it good to screw-glue in this case anyway?

I think I read something about screwing directly into the riser (horizontally to the side) and then angled screwing into the tread above?

What do you think, should you "push up" the staircase before reinforcing, or on the contrary, should someone stand on the step while mounting? The stair manufacturer advised me to let someone stand on the step when I screwed the bottom edge of the riser into the tread, but unfortunately, it didn't help. But maybe I should still do the same thing now. But the staircase is loudest when it hasn't been used.

I was thinking of reinforcing with standing 28x70mm at the red lines, then screw-glued.
Riser and stringer are pine and tread is oak.
Wooden staircase with visible screws and red lines indicating potential reinforcement areas. Steps are made of pine risers and oak treads.
 
É ÉlPon said:
@Immobil
Wondering the same thing, isn't it still good to screw and glue in this case?

I think I read something about screwing directly into the riser (horizontally to the side) and then toe-screwing into the tread above?

What do you think, should you "lift up" the stairs before reinforcing, or on the contrary, should someone stand on the step while mounting? The staircase manufacturer suggested having someone stand on the step when I screwed the bottom edge of the riser into the tread, but unfortunately, it didn't help. But maybe I should still do the same thing now. But the staircase makes the most noise otherwise when it's been unused.

I thought about reinforcing with standing 28x70mm at the red lines, then screwed and glued.
The riser and stringer are pine and the tread is oak.
[image]
Glue should be avoided in all situations!
When mounting risers, it is better to lift the step upward before screwing the riser.
 
É
Immobil Immobil said:
Glue should be avoided at all times!
When installing risers, it is better to lift the step upwards before attaching the riser.
Ok, it's a shame I listened to the "carpenter" who worked for the staircase manufacturer (online store).

Since it makes the most noise in the morning, it feels like it's rising when it's not in use.

It doesn't creak mainly, but rather clunks. Sometimes it becomes a bit like a chain reaction where it makes a little noise at the top, and then when you go further down, it clunks back at the top (or if it's when going the other way). I don't know if this means anything...?

Now I'm not going to install the risers but reinforce them where they are not screwed at all (red lines on the picture). But perhaps I should also press a little upwards then?.
 
If it is an L-shaped staircase with a free-hanging stringer at the outermost point, you won't get rid of the creaking by gluing or screwing anywhere. The only thing that might help is a support down to the floor at the angle of the L. Then you lift the staircase about 1 cm and place a post under the stringer, it should then be a wedge or something else that prevents the post from sliding upwards on the stringer. There is nothing abnormal about creaky L-shaped staircases, the outermost stringer gives in at the fastenings and can start to move downwards under load.
 
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