Building Materials and Construction Technology
Josth: Replacing with a larger/thicker radiator that emits higher heat output should not normally be a problem. Adding more insulation on top of the concrete is a real gamble. Before everyone wanted a basement den and started laying plastic sheeting and insulation on top, they used to build so-called hobby rooms in basements with wooden studs slightly embedded in coarse concrete and a substantial air
PeterFalun: [citat] exactly, protect against rodents, metal mesh (1.5*1.5mm), both at the bottom and top
Skansliden: [citat] It actually makes a big difference. Rockfon and previously Parafon, CDC, etc., release a lot of mineral wool during installation. Then their tiles yellow quite quickly. It's an economic cartwheel not to buy Ecophon. If you bought Advantage as someone mentioned, remember that there is an installation direction. This means the arrows should go in the same direction or 180 degrees. Never 90.
Kirep: [citat] I'm leaning towards placing a post on the outside, so hopefully, it will look somewhat okay. However, I am still unsure about the hole on the inside of the wall (under gypsum & OSB boards). If there is only a trim board, there will be a gap of a few mm between the inner floor and the interior board, and there will only be a 22mm interior board protecting against the cold from outside
Oldboy: I am completely convinced that the aluminum layer makes a difference for thermal radiation. How much of a difference it makes I leave unsaid since I haven't come across any scientific studies on it and therefore have no opinion. It also functions as a vapor barrier. So, I would keep everything that was intact. Where it's damaged, I would use construction plastic or tape if there were smaller
Skogspromenix: It's quite frightening. I was supposed to get a time relay for my boiler. 1400:- from the manufacturer of the boiler. ~400:- for a relay with the exact same set of functions.
Småbrukaren: I just took this journey. We finished with plaster up to the fireplace, you seem to already have a clear divider. Was advised by the chimney sweep to keep the wall behind the fireplace to monitor future cracks. Around our fireplace was a plastered wall, so I skim-coated it. I sanded down the stove and then used regular fine filler to smooth it out. Then I painted with primer and woodwork paint.
dadid: [citat] Yep. If I manufacture it from homogeneous aluminum, it will be milled with soft radii. If it is welded from VKR or equivalent, it will get reinforcing "ears" in the corners.
Osten57: [citat] Great! It worked fine, of course! However, you must tighten the chuck very tightly. The thread gets a bit mashed, but if you screw nuts all the way in and then the chuck, you can save the thread fairly well by unscrewing the nuts afterwards. Thanks for the tip!
Lennart12: Hello, I would say that the roof trusses span from outer wall to outer wall. Detail F shows that there is a stud/wall under the left sheet. None of the other details at the subframe (K, M, O) show any underlying stud/wall. Then it could be that the wall has become somewhat load-bearing over time and that the roof has settled a bit more than before, but since the roof truss is dimensioned for a
mxjolle: [citat] So true and as Sickan usually says I have a plan 😁
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You remove them at least a few centimeters in before you concrete repair the hole. [citat] Some board at the start needs to be attached to the horizontal 45x95, then we usually screw up board scraps on the outside with double drywall screws, probably works with chipboard screws too. Then, occasionally, you need to attach the boards to the horizontal studs to keep them in place...
OKV: [citat] Thanks for the response, Klas! It is indeed wood - even the bottom part of the wall is a wooden stud. Good point - I'll keep that in mind!
Matti_75: If you are going to glue or tape the rule, my recommendation is to prime the concrete with primer for e.g., self-leveling compound beforehand to increase adhesion. Otherwise, I can recommend Spix 5x22mm
Kimpaann: The first two images seem to be a board clad with natural stone, without knowing the year of the board, it's hard to say if it might contain asbestos. But as long as you don't crumble the board causing dust everywhere or lick it, there's no major danger. The last image is a woven wallpaper.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] It doesn't have to be so high that you hit your head on the beam with a steel beam, but a structural engineer needs to calculate that.. It’s no problem to install a beam supported by the masonry walls and a post in the middle; it's just a question of how large/high the beam needs to be..
Thomas & fritidshus: Anyone have experience joining two triple-glazed windows in an L-shape with silicone, without a spacer, i.e., at a 90-degree angle? 🤔
teacup: [citat] Then I'll try to find the floor joists with the stud finder. How can you be sure that it's the floor joists you've hit and not a lath/something else? Do you think the type and size of the screws will be good (lag screws, 8 mm) or are they too big? I also plan to put up a pull-up bar on the wall, but there I thought of mounting it directly on the studs instead of a wooden board. Are 8x40
AG A: [citat] 1. Yes 2. Passive is enough. 3. Glue, plus 1-2 screws are fine. 4. Yes, even interior walls. 5. You can handle it if you are reasonably handy.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Also check the amount of screws because it looks sparse!
Tguerino: [citat] Yes I am 17 years old and have seen the powder stream out 5x times while cutting next to an open bend 😵
partyoverallt: Perhaps it was silly to ask, because I went with pocket hole in the end even though no one recommended it here. Turned out insanely good and stable, far exceeding expectations and probably much more stable than end screw or plug could ever be. RECOMMENDED! [bild]
Karwall: It has been heated year-round previously, but for the past month it's been a bit colder inside, around 16-17 degrees now during the winter.
JDoppingen: Thanks for the response, I have probably decided to build up with 190 mm lecablocks and will then have about 15 mm on each side for plastering, will probably be the best transition to the existing wall. A follow-up question is that the door opening is somewhere between 920-930 mm wide and the blocks are 590 wide. Can I build so that I use whole and half blocks and have slightly wider joints, or
Stefan N: No one can tell from your pictures if it is asbestos, but the odds are about one in a million that it would be.
Testarn: Simply placing some form of plastic on such a narrow strip will not "help" against rising moisture to the slab. Just make sure there is a capillary-breaking layer of gravel where you are going to cast again, and reinforce between the existing slab and the wall, then there should probably not be any problem.