Hello!
I have read some threads here about interior walls but still have questions.
1. Can I glue a beam to the parquet floor instead of drilling and screwing, so that in the future I can remove the wall and only have to "deal with" sanding the floor?
2. Soundproofing! How thick should the wall be and what is used as soundproofing?
Thanks in advance
Anders
I have read some threads here about interior walls but still have questions.
1. Can I glue a beam to the parquet floor instead of drilling and screwing, so that in the future I can remove the wall and only have to "deal with" sanding the floor?
2. Soundproofing! How thick should the wall be and what is used as soundproofing?
Thanks in advance
Anders
1. Well, maybe, but the parquet floor is floating, and having the bottom of the wall floating might not be so good. But I don't know, someone else will have to answer that.
2. Heavy materials. Suggest using 95mm studs with two layers of 45mm insulation inside, with an air gap between, then OSB and plasterboard on both sides with the seams offset. Possibly seal against the floor and ceiling with appropriate compound.
2. Heavy materials. Suggest using 95mm studs with two layers of 45mm insulation inside, with an air gap between, then OSB and plasterboard on both sides with the seams offset. Possibly seal against the floor and ceiling with appropriate compound.
I would say that if you glue to the floor, you can be sure that the parquet can never be saved under the wall. On the other hand, if you screw or nail with a few nails, you only have a couple of small holes that can be filled in with glue and sawdust if you want in the future. This, of course, assumes that the wall is demolished carefully.
Erik
Erik
I used double-sided tape, have laminate flooring, and didn't want to screw because there's water-based underfloor heating there. The outer studs are both screwed into the wall, and the ceiling beam is also screwed, so there are no significant lateral forces on the floor beam. But high-quality double-sided tape holds up quite well actually.
The wall leads to the teenage section of the house, with 95 studs with regular insulation and double drywall on one side and single drywall on the other, and a proper storage door that is insulated to serve as an exterior door, along with sealing strips of course. It keeps the sound with the teenagers very well.
The wall leads to the teenage section of the house, with 95 studs with regular insulation and double drywall on one side and single drywall on the other, and a proper storage door that is insulated to serve as an exterior door, along with sealing strips of course. It keeps the sound with the teenagers very well.
At my father's house, a beam was glued to the floor (parquet floor). When this wall was removed, the parquet floor was also damaged, so it will need to be replaced. Gluing is not the best solution (if you later want to remove the wall and keep the floor underneath without major damage).
Last edited:
In that case, it is important to use sufficiently poor glue. Well-made glue joints can be as strong as the surrounding wood. If you break it apart, it usually splits near the glue joint, but rarely exactly in the joint all the way.Richtmann said:
Erik
Click here to reply
