Hello!
Dumb question:
I'm going to replace the brown-stained 70's moldings and baseboards in our new house with white moldings. (It takes many coats of white paint to get them "unbrown"
so I'm installing new ones)
How do I best trim and miter them? I had a miter box before, but after a while it didn't give such straight "cuts"
Miter shears, is this something?
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=9269&Grp=&n=20100
or this:
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=1144&Grp=&n=20100
or can you use an electric one, does it make nice cuts?
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=9825&Grp=&n=20100
Dumb question:
I'm going to replace the brown-stained 70's moldings and baseboards in our new house with white moldings. (It takes many coats of white paint to get them "unbrown"
so I'm installing new ones)How do I best trim and miter them? I had a miter box before, but after a while it didn't give such straight "cuts"
Miter shears, is this something?
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=9269&Grp=&n=20100
or this:
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=1144&Grp=&n=20100
or can you use an electric one, does it make nice cuts?
http://www.haraldnyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=9825&Grp=&n=20100
Miter saw/compound miter saw is the best according to me. Perfect cuts every time and straight angles even in really thin moldings. The miter shears you linked to are probably meant for smaller moldings. For a miter saw, you should get a more expensive (better) one if you want good cuts.
If it's a house that isn't completely straight in all corners and angles, a bevel gauge is very good to have.
An electric miter saw is also essential, as mentioned earlier, a cheap saw won't do if you're meticulous about getting it straight and with fine cuts. It's invaluable in many other tasks, so it's worth investing a little in a good saw. I have a Dewalt 707 and it's the best purchase I've ever made. A real bargain.
An electric miter saw is also essential, as mentioned earlier, a cheap saw won't do if you're meticulous about getting it straight and with fine cuts. It's invaluable in many other tasks, so it's worth investing a little in a good saw. I have a Dewalt 707 and it's the best purchase I've ever made. A real bargain.
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An electric chop and miter saw is probably preferable!
We use those shears at work to cut smaller plastic cable ducts to get clean cuts, and it works perfectly, but as mentioned, they are probably intended for plastic moldings!
We use those shears at work to cut smaller plastic cable ducts to get clean cuts, and it works perfectly, but as mentioned, they are probably intended for plastic moldings!
The scissors are fantastic for cutting thinner quarter round molds, but they aren't suitable for baseboards and casings. Personally, I have a Bosch PCM 8s miter saw that works excellently for molding cuts. But as previously mentioned, it might be a good idea to use a bevel if the house isn't completely straight.
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
And you should NOT miter in inner corners, but instead cope (if it's a profiled molding) or butt (if it's a flat molding).
Otherwise, you have this one which is quite clever. There are cheaper (read worse) options, but a Hultafors is nice.
http://www.jula.se/geringsvinkel-270-mm-124604
Your moldings are going to be white, so it's good if it's not perfect, because then you have caulk.
http://www.jula.se/geringsvinkel-270-mm-124604
Your moldings are going to be white, so it's good if it's not perfect, because then you have caulk.
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Butt Joint: You butt the next moulding against the inner corner. Therefore, no miter adjustment. Suitable for regular smooth mouldings.
Cope: Profiling mouldings. You set the first moulding along the entire wall, edge to edge. The abutting moulding is jigsawed out as close as possible to fit the profile like a puzzle piece. It seems tricky, but it's surprisingly easy when you try it. Draw the profile with a small "template piece." Then butt the shaped moulding against the first one. (If they're white mouldings, bottom with plenty of latex caulk, as it forgives most imperfections). Caulk, tidy up the joint in the inner corner.
All mouldings should preferably be painted on site after installation. This is because all screw or nail heads should be concealed. Fill these with wood filler, sand and prime/finish paint the moulding.
These steps cannot be overemphasized. Many have a dream of old houses with nice large mouldings/trim, and think that buying nice mouldings will achieve the same effect. But everything is ruined if you see screw heads every 40 cm.
There are more good tricks for neat moulding. Well-executed carpentry (mouldings/trim/reveals etc) functions as a well-matched picture frame. An unseemly frame can disgrace the most beautiful painting....
Cope: Profiling mouldings. You set the first moulding along the entire wall, edge to edge. The abutting moulding is jigsawed out as close as possible to fit the profile like a puzzle piece. It seems tricky, but it's surprisingly easy when you try it. Draw the profile with a small "template piece." Then butt the shaped moulding against the first one. (If they're white mouldings, bottom with plenty of latex caulk, as it forgives most imperfections). Caulk, tidy up the joint in the inner corner.
All mouldings should preferably be painted on site after installation. This is because all screw or nail heads should be concealed. Fill these with wood filler, sand and prime/finish paint the moulding.
These steps cannot be overemphasized. Many have a dream of old houses with nice large mouldings/trim, and think that buying nice mouldings will achieve the same effect. But everything is ruined if you see screw heads every 40 cm.
There are more good tricks for neat moulding. Well-executed carpentry (mouldings/trim/reveals etc) functions as a well-matched picture frame. An unseemly frame can disgrace the most beautiful painting....
I made some statements here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...ktyg-och-taenk-foer-gersagning-av-lister.html
In my opinion, "förkroppa" delivers the absolute best result. However, it is a technique that requires training to be done well.